Folders that excel at cutting

[singularity35]

Maybe...but I'm guessing that the spine thickness was reduced along the reground portion.

Yeh, you're probably right.

[MunroClansman]

I used to think that anything but a full-tang .25" thick beast of a knife just wasn't enough. *shakes head*

Then I got my first slipjoint. The thickest blade tops out at .0625" (1/16), but only at the spine. Past that, it's a slow taper to a wafer-thin tip. Not only does the thing sharpen up like a breeze and take a fantastic edge, but it's never come close to breaking. Thick blades are just a gimmick and a fad, and will be eventually be replaced with real knives that really slice.

I can feel you on not loving the look of traditionals, because I used to be in the same boat. Something about the multiple blades and the overall looks just turned me off. Once you take the plunge and get one in your hands, though, it's all over.

[dePaul]

Do you know if I'd have any luck acquiring it with the wood scales? I've only seen it with the synthetic stuff.

92 Wood is actually the same knife as 82 with one difference - the wood itself. 82 is bubinga, 92Wood may be any kind of exotic wood out there.

http://www.uppsalamaskin.se/Default....8259&r=1559426

http://www.lamnia.fi/items.php?lang=sv&pid=3326

http://www.noze-nuz.com/eka/EKA607718.php

http://www.filofiel.com/tiendaonline...82-p-3134.html

~Paul~

[pialia]

92 Wood is actually the same knife as 82 with one difference - the wood itself. 82 is bubinga, 92Wood may be any kind of exotic wood out there.

http://www.uppsalamaskin.se/Default....8259&r=1559426

http://www.lamnia.fi/items.php?lang=sv&pid=3326

http://www.noze-nuz.com/eka/EKA607718.php

http://www.filofiel.com/tiendaonline...82-p-3134.html

~Paul~

Ahh... thanks for the clarification!

[dePaul]

NP .

~Paul~

[akadave2]

Finally somone talking sense! I love my tacticool folders (Xm-18, Strider SnG etc) but they are chisel thick and only slice so so. Its time knives got back to what they should be doing and that is slicking through things like lasers and that requires a thinner profils and distal taper I believe.

[1234]

The 88´s blade is very nice & thin yet have a substantial handle.



1234,,,

[avoidspam]

I wouldn't say slicing a tomato is the best test of a knife's slicing ability, I can slice tomato's with my axe. It is a sign that you've got your knife sharp (particularly if the tomato is ripe).

The relationship between the depth of the blade, thinness of the edge grind and thickness of the stock is really where the secrets lie I think. As you can see if you grind a Spyderco's edge fine enough it will slice as well as a traditional knife. Don't forget most traditional's don't have a very deep blade so the grind angle can be very similar to a Spydero (think SAK's). I'd suggest that the edge thickness comes down to how brave the maker is feeling, if you put a zero grind on something like ZDP 189 you'd better not slip and hit anything hard or drop the knife! On the other hand I'll push a finely ground traditional made with 1095. The worst that's happened is it's rolled. No problem, 20 minutes sharpening and it's sorted again

It's all about compromise, I'm EDC'ing a SanRenMu 908 at the moment. It's FFG and has 8Cr13Mov, a softer stainless. I've thinned and convexed the edge, now it slices (wood) really well. Worst that happens is it roll's like the 1095 with the added bonus that I can use the knife in typical, wet Welsh weather. The knife cost me $10, I'm happy to experiment

Sam

[dePaul]

The 88´s blade is very nice & thin yet have a substantial handle

Not all 88 are hollow ground! The older versions were scandi ground. Here is mine.








~Paul~

[ericvar101]

cant beat a paramillitary II, get the sprint run in M390 for best performance

[The Government]

I wouldn't say slicing a tomato is the best test of a knife's slicing ability, I can slice tomato's with my axe. It is a sign that you've got your knife sharp (particularly if the tomato is ripe).

The relationship between the depth of the blade, thinness of the edge grind and thickness of the stock is really where the secrets lie I think. As you can see if you grind a Spyderco's edge fine enough it will slice as well as a traditional knife. Don't forget most traditional's don't have a very deep blade so the grind angle can be very similar to a Spydero (think SAK's). I'd suggest that the edge thickness comes down to how brave the maker is feeling, if you put a zero grind on something like ZDP 189 you'd better not slip and hit anything hard or drop the knife! On the other hand I'll push a finely ground traditional made with 1095. The worst that's happened is it's rolled. No problem, 20 minutes sharpening and it's sorted again

It's all about compromise, I'm EDC'ing a SanRenMu 908 at the moment. It's FFG and has 8Cr13Mov, a softer stainless. I've thinned and convexed the edge, now it slices (wood) really well. Worst that happens is it roll's like the 1095 with the added bonus that I can use the knife in typical, wet Welsh weather. The knife cost me $10, I'm happy to experiment

Sam

You bring up a great point here, and I really think it needs some testing on different types of materials.

If two blades have the same starting angles (edge and primary grind), but one blade is wider (having a thicker spine measurement), then how would they compare in "slicing performance?"

I would think that for many types of materials, the thicker spine would not make much of a difference, because most of the wedging pressures would be forced on the starting portion of the wedge (blade), but for other materials, the total thickness of the wedge might come into play more than others. There is also a "drag" factor to consider, aside from "wedging pressure."

We would have to find blades that have the same angles, as well as measure the force needed to slice through the different objects. Apples or potatoes might make better candidates than tomatoes, because they can break apart when they are wedged too harshly. Cheese would also make an interesting test subject, because it seems to magnify the drag factor. To make the test more complete, it would be nice to measure each grind type against itself (hollow, ffg, convex).

Just thinking out loud here...

[1234]

The scandi ground version is the one to get if one can find it , Paul !

1234,,,

[avoidspam]

You bring up a great point here, and I really think it needs some testing on different types of materials.

If two blades have the same starting angles (edge and primary grind), but one blade is wider (having a thicker spine measurement), then how would they compare in "slicing performance?"

I would think that for many types of materials, the thicker spine would not make much of a difference, because most of the wedging pressures would be forced on the starting portion of the wedge (blade), but for other materials, the total thickness of the wedge might come into play more than others. There is also a "drag" factor to consider, aside from "wedging pressure."

We would have to find blades that have the same angles, as well as measure the force needed to slice through the different objects. Apples or potatoes might make better candidates than tomatoes, because they can break apart when they are wedged too harshly. Cheese would also make an interesting test subject, because it seems to magnify the drag factor. To make the test more complete, it would be nice to measure each grind type against itself (hollow, ffg, convex).

Just thinking out loud here...

Agreed, I'm sure someone will chime in with some testing thread links soon....

Sam

[dePaul]

The scandi ground version is the one to get if one can find it , Paul !

1234,,,

Absolutely! I have a couple of those scandi ground 88. They really do excel at slicing.

~Paul~

[1234]

1234,,,