Who has the best deal on Inswool these days?

[Karl B. Andersen]

Any guys here have a line in the best deal for Inswool these days?
Or, does anyone have a box of the 2400 degree 1" stuff with some footage they don't need?
I may just go ahead and buy some from whomever, but thought I'd toss it out there.
My last box has lasted me about 5 years, and I don't know how much of that I gave to guys as they were passing through Andersen Forge, and now I wish I had some of it back!
Maybe those favors will come back around.
I need about 6 feet.

[quint]

Ive got a good size amount of 2" thick stuff, forgot the brand name but its pretty high temp rated 2400 or higher if I remember right. Got it from a guy that built himself a huge glass kiln. I would have to look at it and make sure I have enough to line my next forge and see how much is left but should be 2x3ft or so.

[Karl B. Andersen]

I appreciate that. When I said "6 feet", that would be 6 linear feet X 2 feet wide.
3 feet long won't do me much good.
Thanks, however.

[quint]

Ahh ok sorry yeah dont have enough to spare for that.

[javand]

I've got at least a roll Karl, not sure if it's the 2" thick or 1" thick, but if either will work, I've got you covered. Does it have to be 1"?

[Karl B. Andersen]

Wish I knew what you had.
No, it does not have to be 1".
If you had 5 feet of the 2", and it was in fact the 2400 degree stuff, that would really make my day.
Check and see what you've got and let me know by email when you can.
Thanks.

[javand]

Well just checked. It's 2"x24" Kaowool RT, 8lb density. 2300 deg. Thought for sure it wwas 2400, but I think there isn't a thermal ceramics product at that temp.

[Karl B. Andersen]

OK - next question if anyone is following this topic - would there be any critical difference between the Inswool and the Kaowool that would be detrimental?

[bladsmth]

Both should be fine. If doing predominantly welding in the forge, then the Hi-Z stuff would be best. The refractory coating and ITC-100 are more important.

High Temp Tools lists the 2400° 2" wool for $16.50/ft; $70/5' roll; $260/25' roll.
The 2700° Hi-Z is 1" thick and priced the same .

[Karl B. Andersen]

I saw that, Stacy.
I've used an entire box of Inswool 2400 with Satanite and when I would re-do my forge, it almost always was intact, except for the areas of abuse.
I can't imagine 100 degrees making that much different, when what may actually be different is their rating - not the product.

[bladsmth]

I agree.

[Salem Straub]

This is what I've gotten the last couple times I needed to re line. About the best deal I know of for a smaller piece of blanket.

Inswool at High Temp Tools:

8# density
- 1" thick x 24" wide
- 2400 degree temperature rating

Precut 5 foot lengths (10 sq. ft.) - $36.00

[bladsmth]

One thing that gets left out in figuring forge building cost is the cost of operation and efficiency.
Two layers of 1" Hi-Z wool is $140 for 10 feet. That sounds like a lot to line a forge.
A solid refractory coating of satanite, a bubble alumina floor, and ITC-100 will run you another $100.
When you are done, the forge will reach and hold welding temps easily and efficiently ( assuming the burner is right). Gas consumption will be much lower, and failed welds may be a thing of the past.
While $250 to line you forge sounds high, one good billet will bring more than that. You will also probably save much more than that in gas cost over the life of the lining - which will be very long with these materials.

[Salem Straub]

I often don't have $250 to spend on a roll of wool, especially right when the forge needs re-lined. That $35 chunk will re-line both of my forges 2" thick once, and I only need to once a year or year and a half. Plus, I like working with 1" wool in two layers better than 2" wool in one layer. Easier to cut, shape, and deal with IMO.

Just sayin'.

[Karl B. Andersen]

One thing I've done in my vertical forge is pour about 3" of clay cat litter.
I forge a LOT! of damascus throughout the year.
Last lining went about 2 years before a re-line.
Emptied out the clay and bottom of the forge looked like new.

[Salem Straub]

I keep meaning to try that. I heard about it from Ed Caffrey- so far the best thing I've tried is bubble alumina, but it's not that cheap.

[javand]

Yeah it's not, and it doesn't go a long way, but it is effective. I've been meaning to try some of the competative products that I tracked down a while back, but never did.

My main area of abuse is around the doors of the forge though, and usually what has me patching all the time. Flux hits where the billet lays or contacts around each opening, and I'm always otherwise smacking the lining on the opposite side opening inserting or removing billets, and knocking off chunks in the vertical forge.

[Cody Hofsomme]

Karl, I might be interested in splitting a roll with you, if that helps
I have been meaning to make blowen forge.

[Karl B. Andersen]

Cody, I got what I needed with some great help from Javan.
I think I would have gone for it with you.

[bladsmth]

A trick is to put in a bubble allumina floor and cure everythoing. Then pour the kitty litter over that. Just change the litter as needed, and the floor will stay pristine.

To avoid chipping and wearing near the doors, the refractory layer should be more robust there. Put a good 3/4" of satanite in these areas.
A 1" thick piece of insboard is a good item in these places,too. $22/sqft.