First Blade Design - Questions and Opinions Wanted

[lanman16]

I am looking to make my first knife from a file. I know this is not the best way but it's what I want to do, right now. The grips will be Micarta, which I am looking into making myself. They will be held on with Corby Bolts (I saw them mentioned in another thread and they are exactly what I had in mind)
Anyway, here is the design I drew up. Four squares is an inch.


The questions I had were:
1. When I anneal, I heat it until it is non magnetic then quench it when it cools to about 900 or do I just let it air cool? (I have no way to take the temperature of this)
2. When I harden it I quench it right away in canola oil, the thread I read said to use a couple gallons. Will a disposable tin pan with a few inches be enough or do you really need a few gallons?
2. Will motor oil work instead of canola oil?
3. Another thread mentioned plate quenching, what are the chances my blade will warp? I don't have the tools to plate quench.
4. How wide should the grind on the edge of the blade be? (Sorry I'm still a noob and don't know what that's called)

Any comments, questions, concerns about anything here is appreciated.

Thank You,
Lanman16
p.s. I am reading up on the stickies.

[bladsmth]

Welcome to Shop Talk.
Please fill in your profile with the info ( location,age,occupation, interests, etc.) so we can better help you.
The stickies are your friend. There is one that covers making a file knife:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/sh...fe-From-a-File

Use this search engine to find many past threads on any subject:
http://www.google.com/cse/home?cx=01...%3Aqfobr3dlcra

I would also suggest this tutorial:
http://www.google.com/cse/home?cx=01...%3Aqfobr3dlcra

Tai Goo posted a simple file knife method:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/sh...n-9-easy-steps

Be aware that making a knife from a file is not the recommended way to do it. Getting a piece of 1084 will be far better.

[Matt Markell]

If I were you I'd buy a bar of 1084 from www.njsteelbaron.com. It won't cost much and will make a FAR better knife. Send it to Darrin Sanders for heat treat.

Your design looks good!

[parbajtor]

The only advantage of making a knife from a file is if you don't have access to heat treatment. You can grind and dip (assuming it's good steel) to keep the blade cool and then temper it in a kitchen oven (get a separate,accurate thermometer). 210c for an hour twice would be a good place to start.

[lanman16]

Bladsmith, profile is filled out and sorry for the duplicate thread. I didn't see it say it had to be approve by a moderator and when it didn't show up I was like WTF?! and re submitted it.

I don't have access to tools at my apartment so I wanted to use a file because I am going to my dads place for a few days on Monday and was hoping to get started then. I don't even know if I will be good at this. If I were to use a file I would go to Lowes or Home Depot and buy a new Nicholson File.

If I were to buy the steel from http://newjerseysteelbaron.com/shop/1084/ how much would a heat treatment cost if I sent it to "Darrian Sanders"?

Thanks for your replies.

[Matt Markell]

Here you go: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/sh...-Heat-Treating

I've used Darrin for one batch so far and am very happy and I'm sure others will chime in here too.

One of your questions from earlier is how thick should an edge be before HT. Usually about the thickness of a dime is good although with higher alloyed steels it can be taken thinner. Make sure the edge is even in thickness to help prevent warp.

Cheers

[knife to a gunfight]

If 4 squares is an inch, than it looks like your handle is only going to be about 2.5" long and .75" wide? Seems awfully tiny.
If that's what you're going for, then great, but I'd probably opt for the bottom design over the top, as that little "lanyard bump" probably won't be all that comfortable on your fingers.

As for using a file, I'd buy the nicholson file and then use it to bevel and shape a piece of 1084.

[Wloch248]

Lanman,

Where in MI? I have some spare 1080 Sitting around. I could also heat treat the 1080 for you if interested.

Nathan

[lanman16]

I'm in Mount Pleasant when I'm at my apartment. My dad lives in Ann Arbor which is where I'd be working on the knife at.

[Wloch248]

AA is about an hour west of me. Mt. Pleasant is over 2 hrs NW. I am still interested in helping out if needed but what you would spend in gas would cover buying steel, getting a heat treat, and shipping.

Oh well. Read, re-read, and then read again everything on this forum that you can. The search function is your friend for sure. Feel free to PM me with any questions.

Nathan

[bladsmth]

lanman16,
No problem. The system software takes a look at first posts to see if there is a SPAM issue. Then it either sends them for moderation ( a human look-over) or automatically posts them. Your second post made the software lock out the posts as SPAM until I saw the problem and had it approved.

If at all possible, don't make a knife from a file. I know lots of folks have done it, but a knife made from a known knife steel, like 1084, and using proper manufacture and HT procedures will be a better choice ( and probably a better knife).
This tutorial will walk you through it from idea to finished knife:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/sh...making-a-knife

Use this search engine to find most anything on Bladeforums:
http://www.google.com/cse/home?cx=01...%3Aqfobr3dlcra