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Thread: What is sharpening a knife about? (2015 updates!)

  1. #81
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
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    MA
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    127

    Support BladeForums!
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    Tons of useful information, thanks!!

  2. #82


    What do u guys think this stone is. I'm thinking a true hard. I just lapped it today. This stone will produce some scary sharp knives. Its very smooth and extremely heavy.

  3. #83
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Germany
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    79
    Tough to say from a distance like this, but it does remind me of a "White Hard Arkansas" I bought in Needles, California, 20 years ago. Traditionally, the White Hard Arkansas were and are a milky white in color, but this one from a hardware store in Needles had a vein of yellow-brown in it, almost rust color, that resembles the center section of the stone in your photo. I suppose it always depends on the area of the quarry it comes from. How big is yours, and where did you get it?
    Sam

  4. #84
    It's about 2 in thick 10in long roughly. It was my great grandpas.

  5. #85
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Germany
    Posts
    79
    A great-grandpa will in all probability not have had a stone from the other side of the earth, so if he lived in the U.S. it is probably a "local" stone. I stick with my guess (off-color white hard Arkansas) and dare anyone to come up with a better one. It's obviously a high-quality stone that you will cherish and pass on to your great-grandchild. Lucky guy.

  6. #86
    I'm from crossville tn. I was thinkin Arkansas true hard. And yea it's a fine stone. I'm lucky to have it.

  7. #87
    I have a Hard Arkansas with the same coloration. Yes, it puts a fine finish on a blade.

  8. #88
    So what class is it?

  9. #89
    It feels like a true hard.

  10. #90
    I'm not sure about class but it took forever on a diamond plate to lap mine flat.

  11. #91
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Hill city, KS
    Posts
    233
    I learned something recently that is relevant here. It pertains to sharpness not equaling refinement. This was misleading for me. I posting a link here that I got from another forum from user scienceofsharp. It shows some excellent microscopic cross sections of bevels finished at different grits with measurements. Its clear to see that the apex actually does get thinner at higher grits. In my mind thinner means sharper. I thought that at any given grit the bevels met at a perfect v apex and higher refinement just removed the teeth. This doesn't seem to be the case. Thanks for the great article Ive read it many times Not trying to be rude here just trying to advance knowledge. Thanks again. Here's the link. http://scienceofsharp.wordpress.com/...g-progression/

  12. #92
    If you use say a lansky, you will get a perfect v edge. If you hand hone, it will be more convex. Thinner is sharper and generally slices better. But edge retention isnt as good. A good mix is always good imo.

  13. #93
    Ryan, i just realized how old this thread is. They dont like to resurface an old topic for whatever reason. I guess your supposed to start anew one

  14. #94
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Grand Rapids, MI
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    339
    Great Read

  15. #95
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Hill city, KS
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    233
    Quote Originally Posted by buckman110 View Post
    Ryan, i just realized how old this thread is. They dont like to resurface an old topic for whatever reason. I guess your supposed to start anew one
    Okay will do. I thought this was pretty exciting information.

  16. #96
    Yes it is, theres lots of good info here i wasnt trying to be rude btw. Just thought id pass it along. Read all u can!

  17. #97
    I feel like you have done more for me in five minutes than my month of research on proper sharpening techniques. Thank you!

  18. #98

    Cool

    Hello, new guy on here but i have been into sharpening since i was a kid. I use both a Worksharp Ken Onion sharpener with the blade grinding attachment. I like a convex grind on most of my knives & I also use it on my straight razors. I really like the worksharp equipment & have used their "DrillDoctor" drill sharpener for years. The blade grinding attachment let's you freehand sharpen your blades. They have belts fron 40 grit to 12,000 grit. I have butterknifed several knives & razors due to nicks or chips in & only used the ken Onion blade grinder for the whole process & ended up with a really sharp blade.
    That said I also have several different stones, strops & films that I use depending on what the work needs. Don't limit yourself to one method of sharpening.
    To learn straight razor sharpening, check out " straightrazorplace.com " & there is a wealth of info on razors of all kinds from sharpening & honing to building your own razors.
    I also use 2 different 1" X 42 & one 1" X 30" belt grinders. I pick up alot of my tools at auctions, flea markets & yard sales. Also got lot's of knives & razors from them. I don't like buying knives & razors on line. I want to see & feel it before I buy it.
    I am working on a old Geneva Forge Navy "Mark 1" I picked up at a local flea market. I got it all stripped down last night. Cleaning up all the rust that was under the leather washers on the handle then I will get to polishing & sharpening this favorite type of knife. I am a Navy Vet & am trying to collect & restore all the different types & styles on knives the Navy has used.
    Sorry to ramble. Knowing how to keep your sharpening equipment in good shape is as important as methods used to sharpen and that maintainance will make your sharpening better & faster.

    Dave Huffman
    Last edited by Dave H.; 04-28-2015 at 05:20 PM.

  19. #99
    Thx Mag for the info. I'm a complete neophyte when it comes to knife sharpening. I just bought a Colt pocket knife for whittling and have a Norton stone that I've used to establish a straighter edge versus the convex edge. I also recently bought a leather strop to refine the blade. My question is, should I buy compound for the strop or stone?

  20. #100
    I'm taking my knife to be sharpened by a shop. It's a zt0900 with an 18-22 degree recommended sharpening angle (sorry, I'm a total noob). I don;t want this guy to mess up the look of the blade by just grinding it down and messing up the bevel (i think that's what its called). Do I have to tell the shop to adhere to a specific angle or will they be smart and figure it out?

    I know i should do my own sharpening, but work is crazy plus having a young kid leaves me with almost no time. I'll learn someday!

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