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Thread: Bark River Trail Buddy

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
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    Thumbs up Bark River Trail Buddy


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    I recently bought a Bark River Trail Buddy with green canvas micarta scales, and I'll start by saying, I love it.

    I bought this knife to be paired with a hatchet, to be used for light woodwork/whittling, skinning, and food prep. (general woods purposes)

    So far it has worked phenomenally. The first thing I did was shave with the factory edge, (which was extremely fun in a man moment type way haha) then begin to whittle a spoon form a relatively dense piece of wood. It worked very well in both tasks, and is my favorite whittling knife to date. It was comfortable in my hand, and the thickness/up-sweep of the spine gave me great control, and comfort for the first hour and a half-ish, then it began to get sore. Also the handle was extremely comfortable for draw cuts. I love the balance of the knife as well. it balances at the first pin from the blade, so when I hold it, the balance is just behind my index finger, so it feels very stable. After that (which wasn't, it was still hair poppin' sharp. This is my first Bark River knife, I truly enjoy using it, and I would recommend this model, to anyone who is looking for a general purpose knife that looks great and is a joy to use. I still have to see how it throws a spark. I wear a medium to large glove, and the handle fits my hand perfectly.

    As for the sheath: It is extremely high quality, and is the best made sheath that I have owned to date. Also it is ambidextrous and can be worn cross for cross draw, as well as normal, (because of a slot in the middle of the belt loop) and carries low on the waist (doesn't stick into your side, even when sitting). When I bought this knife and was watching reviews, I heard that if you push the knife to far into the sheath, it will stab into the bottom, and damage it. Knowing this, I tried to solve it, and what I did worked surprisingly well. (surprised the heck out of me actually) All I did was put the knife in the sheath to a depth that was just behind the point touching the end, and worked my thumbs around the edge of the scales. I simply rubbed my thumbs, and applied increasing pressure as the leather warmed up, and it worked like a charm. The only advise I would give, is to make sure your finger nails are cut as short as possible without pain. I say this because I put some scratches in the leather while I was doing it.

    All in all, I love this knife, and it will probably be the only fixed blade that I will ever need. Thank you to everyone at Bark River, as well as Sharpshooter Sheath Systems, for a beautiful, functional, quality, and made in USA/Michigan (I'm a Michigander myself, Hoosier born though) product, that is very well priced, and valued for it's fantastic quality.

    -Josh

  2. #2
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    Feb 2013
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    I have some pics, but I'm not sure how to upload them? could anyone help?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
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    "three stars and a sun" Philippines
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    ^ Need to sign-up to an external hosting site. A popular one is Photobucket.com (you need to sign-up though). Upload them there then copy and paste here.

  4. #4
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    ah ok. thank you.

  5. #5
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  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    NE Ohio
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    Sorta' a streamlined Woodcraft.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 1999
    Location
    Canmore, Alberta, Canada
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    4,256
    Nice... glad to see Bark River is carrying on the tradition of Marble`s. I have one of Mike Stewart`s Fieldcrafts in 52100 from his era there, as well as a pair of Campcrafta. Wish I`d bought a Woodcraft too.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
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    Lake Orion Mi
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    You're exactly right. Mike Stewart mentioned that this knife is exactly that: His version of the marbles woodcraft, with a more streamlined look, with a tip that was brought down, and that is a large reason why I bought it. I really liked the woodcraft, but really wanted a Barkie, cause they're made in Michigan. I also like the blade style a little better.

  9. #9
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    Alberta Ed, that fieldcraft is a beauty! I hadn't seen that model before. I like it a lot, and I definitely see where you're coming from with the woodcraft. I was really torn between those two. the main thing that sold me was the price, as well as I liked the more streamlined blade shape. Personally I like belly, but I like a blade tip that's in line-with the highest point of the spine or below it, just my personal preference.

  10. #10
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    "three stars and a sun" Philippines
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    ^ Good-looking user!

  11. #11
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    Mar 2004
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    Colorado
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alberta Ed View Post
    Nice... glad to see Bark River is carrying on the tradition of Marble`s. I have one of Mike Stewart`s Fieldcrafts in 52100 from his era there, as well as a pair of Campcrafta. Wish I`d bought a Woodcraft too.
    How can you tell them apart? I have an extra, but not sure which "craft" it is...

  12. #12
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    Feb 2013
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    the fieldcraft is shorter than the woodcraft, at around a 3.75in blade vs the woodcraft's 4.5ish

    Also has anyone tried using a clear lacquer, rustoleum, or some kind of sealer to rust proof the handle of a full tang knife? I love this blade, but I'm beginning to get sick of wiping down the handle after ever time I use, or fondle it. Any suggestions? I was going to call or email bark river, but I figured I'd give this a shot first.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
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    Colorado
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    Are you seeing rust? I've used spray on lacquer for hidden tangs, but not on slab sided knives.

  14. #14
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    Feb 2013
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    Untamed: thanks for the kind words, but I'm just a guy who loves knives and the outdoors, and I'm just glad I found this forum.

  15. #15
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    Feb 2013
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    I'm not seeing rust yet, just some discoloration from my finger prints that I would like to stop as well. and how did the lacquer work for your hidden tangs?

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Colorado
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    Very well, but it was on birch handles (Mora). I went out into the garage and checked, it was actually Varathane (sp), or spray on poly urethane. Sorry for the mis-communication...

    You could also try applying super glue with a q tip, not sure how that would work.

  17. #17
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    Feb 2013
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    Lake Orion Mi
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    Sodak:
    I think I'm going to try the spray on sealer, whether a lacquer, or poly, I'm not sure yet, Thanks for the response. I know it wasn't necessarily on metal, but I know lacquers and pol's will both stick (or at least the bottles say they will haha) but the durability was the real kicker I was worried about, so I really appreciate it.

    Also To anyone else who may be browsing this thread, I have another question..

    I would like to harden up my sheath so that the bulge that I have worked into it to fit the handle, will do a better job of stopping/holding the handle when I put the knife into the sheath.
    I've heard of boiling it in water, wax hardening, and just applying plain snow seal to the leather while it's heated, but it's still a very new sheath, and I'm wondering which technique would work to preserve the leather's shape (since it's already formed) and it's color if possible, If waxing or techniques that change the color work to preserve the leather better or waterproof it, I would have no problem sacrificing the color.

    Here are some pics of the shaped in more detail, as well as the thickness/treated type of leather.








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