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Thread: Caso Sodbuster jr vs GEC Bullnose vs Queen Country Cousin

  1. #21

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    I've a few Sodbusters: CASE ss very fair build, couple of RRs including ones with liner locks-sharp decent knives real bargains & I like the smaller ones. A Böker from Argentina-fine carbon but rather crude finish, inexpensive mind, German Bull that has very nice stag and useless stainless so it's a display item.

    Finally Queen Country Cousin in Yellow delrin.

    It's the Queen that's the hands down winner for me: very good finish(no gaps no play) really comfortable rounded thick handles, pointy and deadly sharp and stays that way.

    So good that I can't be bothered to try the GEC (would like a nifebrite example) as I regard GEC as being better at more showy knives. The Queen is a very solid pleasing carry.

    Thanks, Will

  2. #22
    I carry the Case Jr. with yellow handled, cv blade and use it from in the kitchen to the garden to butchering. The edge stays sharp and there is no blade play. for the price I paid (a box off 45acp shells I had no use for) I can't complain. Otherwise about$ 30.00 at the local TSC. You really can't beat this knife.

  3. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by MarkPinTx View Post
    Second time today I have read about coarsely ground tangs on Case knives. I assume you mean the surface that bears on the spring? Not just the faces (where the stamp is). Never seen that before.
    If you are referring to what I wrote, yes--the surface of the tang that bears on the spring looked like the finishing wasn't completed. Sorry, I should have made that more clear. Instead of opening smoothly, it sort of went in little fits-and-starts, if that makes sense.

    It was one of those things that might have worn in with a little use, or might not have. It probably took the new owner all of 60 seconds to correct once the knife was apart.

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Arredondo View Post
    Two of the three are in my knife chest. The Case is great and I have several Queens (not CC's) with D2, a really fine steel; but the one that always ends up in my pocket & is there now is the GEC. The F&F is definitely superior even though it is still a working knife. Of the three steels I prefer the 01; can you get the Case Jr. in cv?

    Tom
    Really you like the 01 over the D2? D2 should be better, on paper anyway.

  5. #25
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    Hi,

    As much as I like D2 from Queen, the extra pain and agony of sharpening it with my Arkansas and India stones would really be a hassle. I too would lean to the easier sharpening of the simpler high carbon steels.

    I have recently picked up a Case Soddie Jr in Tru-Sharp to see what all the fuss was about. For such an inexpensive simple knife, I think I get it now. It seems to be finding it's share of pocket time. I think I would like to get another Case Soddie in CV myself.

    Dale
    If you think you understand what is going on, you haven't been paying attention.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by dalee100 View Post
    Hi,

    As much as I like D2 from Queen, the extra pain and agony of sharpening it with my Arkansas and India stones would really be a hassle. I too would lean to the easier sharpening of the simpler high carbon steels.

    I have recently picked up a Case Soddie Jr in Tru-Sharp to see what all the fuss was about. For such an inexpensive simple knife, I think I get it now. It seems to be finding it's share of pocket time. I think I would like to get another Case Soddie in CV myself.

    Dale
    If you do want to give D2 another go sometime, either silicon carbide or (especially) diamond handle it with ease. A bench-sized diamond hone would get it re-bevelled very quickly. I would definitely sympathize, if only attempting it on Arkansas stones, however.

    Maintenance sharpening of D2, after a good bevel is set, is much easier on most anything other than Arkansas stones (though the black hard and translucent stones have some value in polishing and burnishing edges on some tougher steels).
    David

  7. #27
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    Yes sir, I agree. I have used either true hard black or translucent to hone an edge up to CPM-M4 at 62-64rc. What I have found is they will still work at a much less aggressive level. Checking perceived results at up to 400x I am seeing great results the length of the edge. With that said, as I move up in the steels the stones become much less effective as an actual touch up tool. For example, with 1095, O1 etc I can really take off some steel with the true hard grade Arkansas stones yet the super steels I don't see much steel removal. If I work down to around 1000 grit on diamond and then follow with true hard Arkansas it will polish the entire bevel but even that is MUCH slower than using diamond.

    I have used D2 for a number of years and it is a terrific steel Imo but so is O1. The beauty of O1 Imo is the toughness and strength of the edge. I can beat it up bad and it does not really mind. Another thing to remember is a true hard stone will last a life time and then a few more life times, just learn to lap your stones. A diamond stone WILL wear out eventually.

    Kevin

    Quote Originally Posted by Obsessed with Edges View Post
    If you do want to give D2 another go sometime, either silicon carbide or (especially) diamond handle it with ease. A bench-sized diamond hone would get it re-bevelled very quickly. I would definitely sympathize, if only attempting it on Arkansas stones, however.

    Maintenance sharpening of D2, after a good bevel is set, is much easier on most anything other than Arkansas stones (though the black hard and translucent stones have some value in polishing and burnishing edges on some tougher steels).
    David

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Obsessed with Edges View Post
    A bench-sized diamond hone would get it re-bevelled very quickly.
    Quoted for proper terminology.


    As far as the topic at hand, I would pick the Queen for the blade profile and because it needs less maintenance than the other two. I would opt for the basic version since Sodbusters are one of the few patterns that I prefer without a shield. It is also the best overall value considering the steel used.
    Dan

  9. #29
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    I ask myself this question every morning

    the Queen inevitably wins out but I would happily carry any of them

  10. #30
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    I have the Queen and the Case but have had a good look at the GEC.
    The F&F on the GEC is the best (just by a whisker over the Queen). The lanyard tube is another plus for me.
    I prefer the D2 to the O1, but I have diamond stones.
    The Queen is definitely better than the Case, except the Case is so cheap it's almost a throwaway knife, so the hit & miss QC aspect is not so important.
    I use my non-lockers as EDC and that means they get a fair bit of "eating time" with them. I do like the lack of aftertaste you get with D2, particularly with peeling & slicing fruit

  11. #31
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    Sorry to revive an older thread but interested in more opinions on this. I like the Queen and GEC just bc they are a tad bigger and I think the Large sodbuster is too big.

  12. #32
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    I love the shape of a good sheepsfoot blade. How come the GEC 47 hayn helper gets no love?

  13. #33
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    I realize this is a revived thread but I will reply anyway.

    I have all three. I find that I prefer the Case Jr. Part of my preference may be that I got a good example of the Case and a poor example of the Queen. I really expected that I would like the GEC better than I do. I had the Case long before I had the other two, maybe I am more used to it.

    I find that the Case CV steel easier to sharpen and takes a better edge. I like the feel of the Case and GEC in hand better, the Queen feels a little small for a hard working knife. I really don't care for the half stop on the GEC. I don't care for the etching on the blade of the GEC and Queen. The GEC has better fit and finish. The Case I have is not far behind. Both the Case and Queen were less than half the price of the GEC.

    All three are great knives for EDC. I think the Case Sodbuster Jr in CV is one of the best bargains in pocketknives.

  14. #34
    Not to stir things up too much, but I recently got into collecting "sod buster" style knives about 6 moths ago and have 6 of the Case versions (large and the Jr styles, CV and stainless), two Queens and a GEC. ( as well as Bear and Sons, Kissing cranes, etc.) The Case knives are "hit and miss" with blade centering and overall fit and finish and, as was stated previously, the CV does sharpen up pretty easy. The Queen and the GEC are definitely better steel, fit and finish. I agree the Queen feels a little small in my large hands. But.........the knife I've really been impressed with is the AG Russell "Rancher"! So far I have three (yellow, black, coral) and will be ordering a Indian Rosewood version soon. The fit and finish is excellent......back springs, scales, bolsters, shield all flush, really unbelievable considering the knife is made in China. Blade is wider profile with no wobble or play at all in the three I have (time will tell if this holds up with usage). The blades in the three I have were perfectly centered, again couldn't believe that1 Overall, they are thinner than the other sod buster styles, so front pocket carry is not noticeable at all. Also has a lanyard hole which I like. Steel is 8Cr15MoV and seems to be easy to sharpen, although time will tell with usage and frequency. Overall , all three versions have become main stays in my EDC rotation, which surprises the heck out of me since I have a lot o' knives to choose from. Finally, price is really good given the quality, at least with the three I've got.
    Check 'em out.

  15. #35
    Jerry,

    I own each of these 3 knives and the Case and Queen are the same length. The Queen handle is just slightly wider, but in use I don't notice much difference. I have as of yet to EDC the GEC bullnose which is slightly longer.

    You really couldn't go wrong with any of the 3, but let me say that sharpening Queen's D2 is not the easiest undertaking unless you have diamond hones. Even then I recommend a Lansky sharpening system to remove steel precisely with each stroke thereby saving time.

    Just my 2 cents.

  16. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by akadave2 View Post
    Really you like the 01 over the D2? D2 should be better, on paper anyway.
    Depends on what 'better' is to you or the situation at hand ;-)
    O1 is easier to maintain a smooth edge for doing wood work, and is less 'chippy'. D2 takes and keeps an aggressive 'toothy' edge forever, great for fibrous materials, cardboard, etc. Both are 'better', both are 'worse' depending on what you are loking for.

  17. #37
    Just found out that the Queen Country Cousin Sodbuster is now available in Burgundy Red Delrin rather than the previous yellow/orange. Same D2 and under 33USD I hear. For those fans of red knives, now is the time to get on board the Sodbuster bus!

    Thanks, Will

  18. #38
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    May I ask where you found that information Will? I haven't seen or heard that yet but I'm definitely interested! Thanks, Trevor~
    Say, any of you boys smithies? Or, if not smithies per se, were you otherwise trained in the metallurgic arts .....?
    REALLY NEED GEC Black Bullnose with Redneck Pivot! Willing to buy or trade!!
    BCCI Lifetime Member #2151 & Proud supporter of JK Knives #47

  19. #39
    Trevor, sent you a visitor message.

    Thanks, Will

  20. #40
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    TY sir
    Say, any of you boys smithies? Or, if not smithies per se, were you otherwise trained in the metallurgic arts .....?
    REALLY NEED GEC Black Bullnose with Redneck Pivot! Willing to buy or trade!!
    BCCI Lifetime Member #2151 & Proud supporter of JK Knives #47

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