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Thread: Makers: Post pics of your knives.

  1. #21

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    I'm just getting started with kitchen knives so here are 2 paring knives I recently did

    forged in laminated Hitachi White Steel no 2 with Ironwood handles




  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdm61 View Post
    Ian how do you line up the billet/blade to press the chevrons? Do you forge it to the general profile first or press an straight bar?
    For that one, I forged a rough profile with some wiggle room, pressed the pattern, and trimmed as needed.

    Ian H. Rogers
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  3. #23
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    Thanks, Brock.

    Ian H. Rogers
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  4. #24
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    Thanks. That is what I have done for ladder pattern. With ladder, you can just use the spine as guide because the lines only have to be straight up and down. I bought chevron dis form Uncle Al at the same time that I got my ladder dies like 7 years ago, but I have never used the chevron ones.
    Quote Originally Posted by haburn View Post
    For that one, I forged a rough profile with some wiggle room, pressed the pattern, and trimmed as needed.

  5. #25
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  6. #26
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  7. #27
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  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brock47 View Post
    Your work is amazing Ian. You have inspired quite a few of my projects this last year.

    Here is one I just finished up, and a few pics of my next projects profiled (AEBL and 52100).





    Hi Brock:
    If you don't mind, I'd like to ask you a question about your blade design. I'm starting to make kitchen knives instead of bushcraft, so I'm looking around for advice.

    Those blades you have profiled in the bottom pic are long, skinny, and are beveled. What's the reason behind that design? I don't see many kitchen knives with bevels.

    Thanks,

    Sprayman

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by fallen-ronin View Post
    Hello
    Here are a few of mine.
    Hi fallen-ronin:
    Beautiful blades! I have a question about the first knife, pictured in the upper left. What's the advantage of that particular design? Is it made for certain cuts or foods? I'm planning my second chef's knife, so I'm looking for ideas.

    Thanks,

    Sprayman

  10. #30
    a modified Carter pattern Kiritsuke
    blade about 7.5"
    flat ground


  11. #31

    kitchen knives by p.s.k...

    I made this knives from a suminagashi bar stock with a core of "white paper" steel by Takefu.
    The first one is a yanagiba 27cm blade length & 3 mm. thickness.
    The handle material is ebony,bocote & briar wood.







    The second one is a Gyuto knife 22cm.blade length & 2.8mm thickness.
    Handle material is bocote ,briar wood & buffalo horn.





    The third is a kiritsuke style knife at 24cm blade length & 2.8mm thickness.
    Handle material is olive,eucalyptus wood & buffalo horn.







    and the last one is a Gyuto at 22cm blade length & 2.9mm thickness.
    Handle material is wenge,Iroko & briar wood.










    Thanks a lot...

  12. #32
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    Psk..beautiful knives!

  13. #33
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    Wow, some great stuff on this thread! Great job everyone!
    Here's the last chef I finished. 13" OAL, 0.078" Alabama Damascus that has a compound grind (the bottom 1/3 is convex) Spalted Maple Burl handle


    Proverbs 27:17 "As iron sharpens iron so one man sharpens another"
    robertericksonknives at gmail dot com
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  14. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sprayman View Post
    Hi Brock:
    If you don't mind, I'd like to ask you a question about your blade design. I'm starting to make kitchen knives instead of bushcraft, so I'm looking around for advice.
    Those blades you have profiled in the bottom pic are long, skinny, and are beveled. What's the reason behind that design? I don't see many kitchen knives with bevels.
    Thanks,
    Sprayman
    Just saw your question S. Those are Yanagiba blades and have a very specific grind on each side of the blade.
    With these and with other kitchen knives, to do more than create a 'kitchen' looking knife you will find you need to study, and likely for years.
    I have been studying Japanese style kitchen knives for about a year and feel I am just starting to grasp some of the basics.
    It is a quite complex combination of design characteristics that distinguish a fair to nice knife from a great one.
    Good luck to you.

  15. #35
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    Very nice work Robert and PSK. I like that kiritsuke. Do you have more pics!?!

  16. #36
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    I just finished up this 52100 for a forum member. Asymmetrical grind, convex on the front, flat back. Ironwood and ebony handle.
    Poor photos, it was getting dark out.





  17. #37
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  18. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by timos- View Post
    another stunner brock! on a side note: ill have one to show in a couple weeks. Just gotta get these rehandle jobs off my bench!
    Thanks Tim. What are you rehandling?

  19. #39
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    Hi Brock:

    Thanks for the reply. You speak the truth about kitchen knives. They're much more complex than one would think. The first three kitchen knives I made are fair, but I use them in the kitchen every day. I know it will take me years to make knives comparable to those I see on this forum, but boy is it fun!

    Besides, I've got bushcraft and hunting knives just sitting around, collecting dust--no need to make any more of them.

  20. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brock47 View Post
    Thanks Tim. What are you rehandling?
    ive got a couple 210mm gyutos one is a konosuke HD and the other is by Shimatani, it is an impressive knife carbon core with raindrop damascus cladding. The profile is sort of santoku-ish but is definately a gyuto. Also a 240mm gyuto that I am not sure who makes, it has a fine level of fit and finish and is also stainless clad carbon core. A Deba with a massive 1/4" thick handle and blade, and a cute little hankotsu! I like the rehandle work, it allows me to see and feel a wide variety of knives.

    Got them all boxed up and ready to send out. Now its on to a killer custom, a 160mm utility loosely based off an old sab. This ones in aebl and redwood/ivory and bog oak, frame handle construction, hidden tang deal

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