I'm just getting started with kitchen knives so here are 2 paring knives I recently did
forged in laminated Hitachi White Steel no 2 with Ironwood handles
Thanks. That is what I have done for ladder pattern. With ladder, you can just use the spine as guide because the lines only have to be straight up and down. I bought chevron dis form Uncle Al at the same time that I got my ladder dies like 7 years ago, but I have never used the chevron ones.
I've got 10 or 12 blades at home I ground out out AEB-L waiting to be handled. One of the biggest issues for me is dancing between what handle woods to use. I have literally sorted through my buckets and buckets of wood at least 5 times trying to find the perfect block!
If you don't mind, I'd like to ask you a question about your blade design. I'm starting to make kitchen knives instead of bushcraft, so I'm looking around for advice.
Those blades you have profiled in the bottom pic are long, skinny, and are beveled. What's the reason behind that design? I don't see many kitchen knives with bevels.
Beautiful blades! I have a question about the first knife, pictured in the upper left. What's the advantage of that particular design? Is it made for certain cuts or foods? I'm planning my second chef's knife, so I'm looking for ideas.
a modified Carter pattern Kiritsuke
blade about 7.5"
I made this knives from a suminagashi bar stock with a core of "white paper" steel by Takefu.
The first one is a yanagiba 27cm blade length & 3 mm. thickness.
The handle material is ebony,bocote & briar wood.
The second one is a Gyuto knife 22cm.blade length & 2.8mm thickness.
Handle material is bocote ,briar wood & buffalo horn.
The third is a kiritsuke style knife at 24cm blade length & 2.8mm thickness.
Handle material is olive,eucalyptus wood & buffalo horn.
and the last one is a Gyuto at 22cm blade length & 2.9mm thickness.
Handle material is wenge,Iroko & briar wood.
Thanks a lot...
Proverbs 27:17 "As iron sharpens iron so one man sharpens another"
robertericksonknives at gmail dot com
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With these and with other kitchen knives, to do more than create a 'kitchen' looking knife you will find you need to study, and likely for years.
I have been studying Japanese style kitchen knives for about a year and feel I am just starting to grasp some of the basics.
It is a quite complex combination of design characteristics that distinguish a fair to nice knife from a great one.
Good luck to you.
Very nice work Robert and PSK. I like that kiritsuke. Do you have more pics!?!
I just finished up this 52100 for a forum member. Asymmetrical grind, convex on the front, flat back. Ironwood and ebony handle.
Poor photos, it was getting dark out.
Thanks for the reply. You speak the truth about kitchen knives. They're much more complex than one would think. The first three kitchen knives I made are fair, but I use them in the kitchen every day. I know it will take me years to make knives comparable to those I see on this forum, but boy is it fun!
Besides, I've got bushcraft and hunting knives just sitting around, collecting dust--no need to make any more of them.
Got them all boxed up and ready to send out. Now its on to a killer custom, a 160mm utility loosely based off an old sab. This ones in aebl and redwood/ivory and bog oak, frame handle construction, hidden tang deal
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