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Thread: Sledge Hammers!

  1. #361
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    Quote Originally Posted by Square_peg View Post
    I love their finish and framing hammers. The 16 oz & 20 oz rip hammers are excellent. I also like the 24 oz framer.
    My favorite is a 20oz 999ml

  2. #362
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    Yep, that's a good one. Straight claws are most useful. Vaughan's have good steel and great finish. Plus they have their own hickory handle plant.

  3. #363
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    The riggers axe for me followed closely by the 32oz California framer. I haven't seen the 32oz California framer for a while. It might have went the way of the passenger pigeon. We have the magic of titanium now that hits just as hard with less weight.
    It matters not the trades are full of guys that can't drive a nail. Ya, I know there are a few that can.

  4. #364
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    What I like even more than the 999ml is an old craftsman hammertooth ( 50's-60's ) made by Vaughan of course which is basically a 999ml with ribbed claws and an extra little nail puller.

  5. #365
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    Quote Originally Posted by Square_peg View Post
    One of my all time favorite hammers.
    Years ago when I did a lot of "rough in" carpentry work I had a Vaughn 28 oz framing hammer and I still have it. Once you got good enough to use it with accuracy you literally could drive a 16 penny nail all the way in with one precision blow. VAUGHN made a lot of good striking tools> I believe at one time my dad have one of their sledge hammers.

  6. #366
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    I would use one firm blow to set the nail and one blow to sink it with a 24oz framing hammer. I typically used a light blow to set and 2 blows to drive but if I wanted to show off I'd set it with a hard blow and drive it in one. Risky to your fingers to do it this way.

    I still have that hammer. The waffle face almost completely smooth now. I've driven 50 pounds of 16d sinkers in a day with that hammer - interior partitions.

  7. #367
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    An 8lb straight peen forging hammer and an all original Plumb 4lb spike maul (unusual!)


  8. #368
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    That's a cool spike maul.

  9. #369

    Sledge Hammers!

    Finished this up last week. 1-1/2 lb PLUMB ball peen hammer. Cleaned and re-hung on the original handle. Sanded and finished with BLO.


  10. #370
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    These are a 2.5lb Woodings-Verona crosspein on a 14" handle, a 3lb Sheffield Steel crosspein on a 16" handle, and an 8lb Plumb on a thick 18" handle.


  11. #371
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    Great looking hammers JB!

  12. #372
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    Now THAT'S a hammer.



  13. #373
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    10 pound cross pein! No THAT will build your forearms!

    I figgered a gnarly buck dude like you would hang that on an 18" handle and one-hand it.

  14. #374
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    Quote Originally Posted by Square_peg View Post
    10 pound cross pein! No THAT will build your forearms!

    I figgered a gnarly buck dude like you would hang that on an 18" handle and one-hand it.
    The only way I am one handing that is on a 6" handle!

  15. #375
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    6lb Hubbard spalling hammer on an 18" handle, 5lb Plumb spike maul on a 16" handle.


  16. #376
    Quote Originally Posted by Square_peg View Post
    I love their finish and framing hammers. The 16 oz & 20 oz rip hammers are excellent. I also like the 24 oz framer.

    My choice of hammer back in my construction days. Back when I swung one all day long, this was the best for me.
    I, after looking at this thread have a sudden interest in a vintage plumb hammer. I have never hung a hammer.
    Last edited by Woodcraft; 03-21-2017 at 08:20 AM.

  17. #377
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    The 20 oz. Estwing straight claw has been the mainstay of commerial form setters for decades. It's durable. I still have one. The steel neck is just less user friendly than a wood handle.

    Wood framers should stay away from steel handles. They often need to pull nails by prying sideways. This warps the steel necks.

  18. #378
    Quote Originally Posted by Square_peg View Post
    The 20 oz. Estwing straight claw has been the mainstay of commerial form setters for decades. It's durable. I still have one. The steel neck is just less user friendly than a wood handle.

    Wood framers should stay away from steel handles. They often need to pull nails by prying sideways. This warps the steel necks.
    This one held up fine. I imagine this could be a problem. I however never once saw that happening though​. (The neck not coming back) I was involved in building homes from the groundwork to finish carpentry. We did it all. I was more involved with framing, siding, and roofing as I also had(still have) a CDL and also drove a dump truck for the company as well. So I was often busy during foundation and finish work .Bringing in sand, crushed stone, hauling out dirt, stones and stumps. Lol.

  19. #379
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    jb i find a good forging hammer like that is most useful on a 24. with that kinda weight behind its almost a giant chisel instead of a spreader. i really like that head shape. i would email you about it but, like i said before. i couldnt afford it

  20. #380
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    Quote Originally Posted by Woodcraft View Post

    My choice of hammer back in my construction days. Back when I swung one all day long, this was the best for me.
    I, after looking at this thread have a sudden interest in a vintage plumb hammer. I have never hung a hammer.
    I have the same one. Says Safe-T-Shape on the other side (instead of wear safety goggles) and cost $12 (taxes incl) at Can Tire back in 1972. Hammer made more money for me than all of the university and college diplomas I have hanging on the wall.

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