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Thread: The Drawing Board

  1. #41
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  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rupestris View Post
    Thong hole - optional.
    Finger indent - nope.
    Palm swell - no. Palm wood - maybe .
    Blender attachment - hmmm...


    It needs a picatinny rail on top, a biometric safety and heated slabs. Oh, and a hole in the blade to attach a hex nut with a zip tie... and yes, a blender attachment. And a shrubbery. Not too tall...
    I'm thinking Stun-gun attachment....


    Go Raptors ! Clan of the Cowbell!
    Rest in Peace Doug you will be missed.

  3. #43
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    Hole in thong, yes!
    Always looking for older Randall Made Knives...


  4. #44
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    John, I took a closer look at your drawing and made some slight changes, maybe worth taking a look at. I added a small finger bump at the front of the handle slightly distal to the edge. This is to help index the knife edge to its position either up or down while it is in use in say the cavity of a deer were it is hard to see. This will let you know where the edge is before your finger or thumb get to it. The next thing I did was made the top and bottom radiuses on the butt symmetrical, this doesn't add anything to the performance but it gives the knife visual balance. Bob Loveless talked about this in one of videos on making a drop point hunter. For what it is worth I like butts on my knives to be cut at about a 90 degree angle with actual butt being domed with a slight radius on top. I'll post some pics.


    [URL=http://s1038.photobucket.com/user/scotthanson1/media/P9260766_zpschjbumao.jpg.html][/URL

  5. #45
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    Thumbs up

    Good call, Scott. I like it.
    Always looking for older Randall Made Knives...


  6. #46
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    Thanks Scott, I like the index idea. I'll sketch it up, if I'm understanding correctly, it would just be a bit of a smooth bump, just enough to barely feel?
    I like the butt end,that looks a lot better

  7. #47
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    Correct, not a finger notch just a small little bump or rise to help distinguish edge orientation, either up or down from feel alone, when the knife is not in view. If you look at the guards on the two handles I posted you will notice the front guard is about a 1/3 longer than the back guard, this is why.

  8. #48
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    Something must be going really awry here. I'm actually learning stuff.
    I'm a little bit scared by this.
    Rest in peace Maniacal Pete and DougC. You were the best of us and will not be forgotten.

    Clan o' the cowbell

  9. #49
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    Scott can drop some serious knowledge, if he charged me for answering all of my dumb questions in PM's, I'd be in serious debt!

    I'm still sketching this up, I added a tiny bit of length to the handle just to make sure your finger doesn't ride on top of that bump, should be able to use it as an index for not only up and down, but how much room you have front to back.

  10. #50
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    Should we put less curve in the handle? Straighten it out and lessen the top curve?


    Gonna be working on a thin Zulu design after some more research.

  11. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by lessismore View Post
    Should we put less curve in the handle? Straighten it out and lessen the top curve?


    Gonna be working on a thin Zulu design after some more research.
    Curves should match the natural curve of your hand/wrist when working with the knife. If it's curved correctly it will be much more comfortable to work with. When working with large animals that will be a huge benefit.
    Rest in peace Maniacal Pete and DougC. You were the best of us and will not be forgotten.

    Clan o' the cowbell

  12. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by lessismore View Post
    Should we put less curve in the handle? Straighten it out and lessen the top curve?


    Gonna be working on a thin Zulu design after some more research.
    John, I think it's looking really good right now, a little bit of curve on the butt of the handle make feel and fit better in your hand, the forward 2/3 of the handle is plenty straight. I think you should try this design out or make a mock up out of wood and see how it feels first, but don't think you'll have to I think you got a winner right now. Like I said try this for a couple of knives and tweak it as you go if you have to.

  13. #53
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    Don't screw up a thing, especially a good thing...
    Always looking for older Randall Made Knives...


  14. #54
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    I'll make mock up with clay handles and see how it feels and we'll go from there.

    As for thickness, .07"-.09" would make for a thin slicer. What says you's?

  15. #55
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    The thinner the better

  16. #56
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    Mmmm, thin but with curves in the right places.
    Rest in peace Maniacal Pete and DougC. You were the best of us and will not be forgotten.

    Clan o' the cowbell

  17. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by protourist View Post
    Mmmm, thin but with curves in the right places.
    Are we still talking about knives?


  18. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rupestris View Post
    Are we still talking about knives?

    I think so.
    or is it, I think. So?
    Rest in peace Maniacal Pete and DougC. You were the best of us and will not be forgotten.

    Clan o' the cowbell

  19. #59
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    Although I prefer drop points for a knife that will primarily be used for hunting, I am REALLY liking this one John...

    I'm not trying to get off topic but we talked earlier about a knife that I designed, and had another maker make for me,
    that didn't turn out like I had planned. You said to post the drawings if I could find them, and the only two I
    have found so far are rough drafts.

    I've never drawn a knife before and it shows lol You can see in the drawing where my original blade shape was supposed to be.
    It's the lighter colored lines. The maker took the liberty of changing it to a blade with a pronounced recurve I don't like recurves.
    The arch in the handle was not supposed to be as pronounced it it shows in the picture either.

    There are a couple similarities between your knife and the one I did... Yours looks a lot more refined though
    I like the idea of a notch on the blade. As Scott mentioned, it is good for orientation, but in my case I like a pronounced notch
    because I like being able to choke up on a knife, especially if I am working blind inside of an animal...
    In all honesty, I usually do it no matter what task I am doing on an animal because it gives me a better "feel". It's also one of the reasons
    I prefer my knives on the smaller side of life.

    I also wanted a thumb ramp of sorts on my knife, and as you will see in the pictures, it should have been complete with jimping
    I also wanted jimping on the spine towards the tip because that is where my finger automatically goes when I grab a knife.
    The jimping should have been subtle.
    I didn't want it rough because I was afraid that it would become irritating during longs periods of use. Is the jimping necessary ? No...
    I've never had a problem using knives for over 40 years that didn't have it, but I like it, and I think it adds a nice touch to a knife when done tastefully.

    Anywho, I will look for some more pictures. I know I have some of the knife after he finished it.
    Sorry for rambling on and drifting off the original topic of this thread. If you would prefer the picture to be in a different thread,
    just let me know and I can move or delete it.


  20. #60
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    Perfect thread for it Mike, we can work on a bunch of designs in here and start specific build threads when that time comes.

    I agree with a lot of your points, prefer drop point, despise recurves (though I've seen some gorgeous ones, not a fan functionally), like forward control, a solid area for my index finger, and prefer smaller blades. We should be able to come up with something.

    I can see where you're going with that design I think. There's a woman in a nice sun dress in there, we just gotta work on her posture.

    Let me soak this in and I'll riddle you with a thousand annoying questions

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