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Thread: One Knife Survival Knife

  1. #41

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ladams19 View Post
    So true. Same for me. I recall getting more than one over the years as Christmas presents. The one with the cheap camouflage sheath and compass that does not really work at all as well as that crappy sharpening stone it came with. I am sure there are still one or more stowed in a junk box somewhere. I have had the blade snap off just doing some basic items with it. Back to topic, I think survival knife and bushcraft knife would go hand in hand though. In my mind, "Bushcraft" is "Survival" and "Survival" in many aspects is "Bushcraft". Now we see our bushcraft you tubers in a controlled environment typically, but you got to teach somehow. I can see the advantage of having the hollow handle filled with needed objects, i.e. fishing line and hooks, alum foil, an aspirin, etc. But the trade off for having the hollow handle is the loss of strength on the blade itself. I have seen many videos and had many conversations about the blade breaking off the hollow handle designs. A full tang design with an Altoids tin strapped to the sheath would be ideal. Then you got your items as well as the strength of the full tang. You could boil water in the tin if needed too, so multiple uses.
    Yea, I've heard that about some of your cheaper styles. However, from what I've heard, the full custom hollow handles will work much better, and some have a guarantee with them. Marin Knives guarantees that his hollow handles will not break and he will replace them if they do.

    I just don't like the looks of "bushcraft" knives. I like the Bowie, fighter style better.

    Lastly, I think I have that cammo knife you were talking about.

  2. #42
    The only hollow handle knives I would trust are the old Chris Reeve models where the handle and blade were milled and ground from a single piece of steel... A2 if I remember correctly. Haven't heard of Marin Knives though.

    The trade off, of course, is the handle is just a cylinder... not as comfortable as a nice palm swell.

    A small waterproof tin attached to the sheath is, indeed, a better option as mentioned. Stash all of your emergency items there, and you have a small tin to boot!
    ~formerly known as tbhride~

    David C. Andersen • Nordsmith Knives

    Associate Editor • http://thetruthaboutknives.com

  3. #43
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    I know that the beginning of this thread was focused on a kit like an "Essential Ten", but mindset since has shifted to more - "a day outing turns much more serious".
    Also, as far as sharpening I don't think that non knife people would plan for edge maintenance as a part of their "kit".
    With that being said, I am envisioning the knife being touched up on a river rock or such.
    3V may be easy to maintain compared to what other high wear steels but a river rock will still not work very good.
    I have touched up knives and machetes in the field with creek rocks before with adequate results.
    I may still make some in other steels (already planning on 52100), but for now my main focus with this knife is O1.
    I have had very good success with O1 in the past with many pleased customers.
    My uncle has a 3V, S90V, and O1 knife of mine and he prefers the O1 best, says he favors the way it cuts.

    As for survival knives with hollow handles; in this time of BOBs, Altoid Tins, and other small pouches and containers I really don't see a need for the hollow handle.
    Bushcraft knife was also mentioned earlier.
    That falls right in line with where I want this to be and was what I though about it after getting the first one profiled out.
    A slightly bigger knife that is durable and versatile.
    Versatility and ingenuity are 2 ways to describe Bushcraft in my opinion.

  4. #44
    One thing we haven't talked about yet is sharpened spines.

    The arguments against are certainly legitimate... They can be uncomfortable and create a stress riser in the blade and possible point of failure. That said, the applications in a survival situation for using a sharpened spine instead of your edge (for scraping tinder, striking a firesteel etc) are also a big positive.

    Although it isn't a deal breaker for me, I tend to say go for it, leaving just the first inch or so in front of the handle unsharpened so it is easier on your thumb.

    Thoughts?
    ~formerly known as tbhride~

    David C. Andersen • Nordsmith Knives

    Associate Editor • http://thetruthaboutknives.com

  5. #45
    Quote Originally Posted by Big Chris View Post
    ...but mindset since has shifted to more - "a day outing turns much more serious".

    ...
    A slightly bigger knife that is durable and versatile.
    ...
    So make that two:

    This is heading in a good direction

  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by DavidCAndersen View Post
    One thing we haven't talked about yet is sharpened spines.

    The arguments against are certainly legitimate... They can be uncomfortable and create a stress riser in the blade and possible point of failure. That said, the applications in a survival situation for using a sharpened spine instead of your edge (for scraping tinder, striking a firesteel etc) are also a big positive.

    Although it isn't a deal breaker for me, I tend to say go for it, leaving just the first inch or so in front of the handle unsharpened so it is easier on your thumb.

    Thoughts?

    David,
    It's like you are reading my mind.
    As I was sanding some handles today I was discussing that exact topic with myself.
    I like a rounded spine because: 1-it gives the knife a finished look, and 2-a sharp spine will destroy the inside of a kydex sheath.
    My idea was to use a 1" diameter small wheel to cut a small scallop in the spine to scrape with.
    I could use a larger wheel if a larger area is needed.

  7. #47
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    I agree with you here, a rounded spine does look more finished and finer lines in my opinion. BUT....it is useless in the survival situation. In this case looks means really nothing. A small scallop then a nice squared flat spine to spark fire steel with is perfect. The scallop can also be used for scraping and removing bark or any other situation where you might not want to ruin the sharpness of the blade. I like your thinking here Chris. Once you get towards the tip you can put some rounding in or even a swedge to aid in penetration. Just my thoughts on it.

    Quote Originally Posted by Big Chris View Post
    David,
    It's like you are reading my mind.
    As I was sanding some handles today I was discussing that exact topic with myself.
    I like a rounded spine because: 1-it gives the knife a finished look, and 2-a sharp spine will destroy the inside of a kydex sheath.
    My idea was to use a 1" diameter small wheel to cut a small scallop in the spine to scrape with.
    I could use a larger wheel if a larger area is needed.
    You smell that? Do you smell that?... grinder dust, son. Nothing else in the world smells like that. I love the smell of grinder dust in the morning. ...the smell, you know that dusty smell, the whole shop. Smelled like... victory.

  8. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big Chris View Post
    I sat down today and sketched out what I have had in my mind for this "One Knife".
    Now remember that I plan to have an axe as my main heavy duty chopping tool.



    This knife is 11" OAL with a 6" Blade.
    I plan to start on a couple very soon.
    They will be made from some 3/16" O1 that I have on hand.
    I like this design Chris. IMO, you've got exactly what you are looking for here.
    Scott
    Gossman Knives, Wilderness Tools
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  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ladams19 View Post
    I agree with you here, a rounded spine does look more finished and finer lines in my opinion. BUT....it is useless in the survival situation. In this case looks means really nothing. A small scallop then a nice squared flat spine to spark fire steel with is perfect. The scallop can also be used for scraping and removing bark or any other situation where you might not want to ruin the sharpness of the blade. I like your thinking here Chris. Once you get towards the tip you can put some rounding in or even a swedge to aid in penetration. Just my thoughts on it.
    I will play with finishing the spines differently on these.
    Rounded at the handle for thumb comfort, a couple inches left crisp, and finally a treatment at the tip be it rounding or a swedge.
    I had already tossed the idea of a small swedge at the tip to aid penetration.
    Not really enough to weaken the tip, just enough to make it slightly more acute.

  10. #50
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  12. #52
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    That looks a very capable knife. Love the thought and logic you have put into it. Great thread.

  13. #53
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    Looks great Chris. Very capable design.
    Scott
    Gossman Knives, Wilderness Tools
    Built with American Pride in the USA
    www.gossmanknives.com
    Tusker User Group #01

  14. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big Chris View Post
    Here is a picture pre heat treat



    Weight is just over 9 ounces here.
    Hopefully after tapering the tangs and gluing the scales on they will remain between 10 and 11 oz.
    Looking good! Looking forward to the finished product once all the final decisions are made.
    For Sale - Crimson Trace LaserGrip Springfield XD

    wise hog "...getting older helps one realize a man's life just keeps ticking away and no amount of cash will buy even one second back, yet happy memories/experiences are priceless."

  15. #55
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    Best of luck.
    Last edited by fishiker; 01-04-2017 at 07:39 PM.

  16. #56
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  17. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big Chris View Post
    I remember that test very well.
    However, I do not understand what it is supposed to contribute here.
    It just showed that different makers have different opinions of what it takes to make a "one knife" and when I read what you were hoping to do the first thing that came to my mind was the competition. I think you're up against a great if not impossible challenge. No disrespect was intended and I apologize if it was perceived that way.

  18. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by fishiker View Post
    It just showed that different makers have different opinions of what it takes to make a "one knife" and when I read what you were hoping to do the first thing that came to my mind was the competition. I think you're up against a great if not impossible challenge. No disrespect was intended and I apologize if it was perceived that way.
    No worries, and I didn't mean for your to remove your post.
    I will leave it linked where I quoted you.
    Some newer members may really like to see it.
    I was not following the same line of thinking as you were.
    Now that you clarified it makes complete sense.
    Brian's tests were very well laid out to test a wide range of scenarios and qualities.
    I was a very new maker at the time and had not even joined bladeforums yet, although I did lurk around and read.
    One thing that I think is interesting is that the top three performing knives are all very similar in shape and style.

  19. #59
    I'd forgotten about that post, I hadn't seen it in a long time. It brought back memories, thanks!
    Chris, I suspect that your "One Knife" (does it need a better name? ) would do very well in that test panel.
    Those tests are kind of skewed towards knives that work well as knives, but are also large enough to do a bit of rough stuff as well.

  20. #60
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    Thanks Fancier.
    For a name I am currently leaning towards "Voyager", but Mrs.Big Chris had some other ideas.
    I'm not real keen on hers at this time, but nothing is set in stone yet.

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