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Thread: Adopted 3 homeless schrades

  1. #1
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    Adopted 3 homeless schrades


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    Well I went pawn jumping and found 3 homeless schrade, the 25ot was ugly but little elbow grease and she looks real good, 5ot has a C on the bolster can someone tell me way, and this little schrade welden 855 in very used shape but I didn't have one like it so I brought it home any ideas on how old it is.





  2. #2
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    Nice looking knives after the cleanup. The "C" is a company logo. Not sure of the company.

  3. #3
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    Those all look great in different ways.
    I would buff that 'C' logo of of the bolster on the 5OT of it were mine.

    One thing I have always enjoyed about these old knives is that if one feels the desire to do so they can be cleaned up to near new appearance with a little sanding and polishing.


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  4. #4
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    Nice write up and pics Garza. I think you have inspired me to start looking for some older knives that need a little work for my knife collecting addiction. When you say sanding, would that be with a very fine wet and dry sandpaper. I don't have a polishing wheel. Any advice greatly appreciated. Mike

  5. #5
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    GUNNER'
    Yes, sanding would be by hand with wet/dry paper. I like to do the back springs with 320 as that leaves them the closest to a factory satin that i have found.

    If bolsters are beat up badly I'll start with 320 and work up to 800, 1000 or even 1,500. Then I'll polish them with mothers mag polish. Any metal polish works pretty well.

    If I am sanding the blades I'll use a sanding block and follow the factory grind lines/direction. I leave that finish at 320 also, a nice satin, close to factory finish.


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    "The surest sign of wonder is exaggeration" Gaston Bachelard

  6. #6
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    Thanks so much for taking the time for the instruction. I feel ready to go now. LOL. I am retired so I have plenty of time to work on restoring some old knives. Pics later I hope. Thanks again peppercorn. Mike

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by GUNNER63755 View Post
    Thanks so much for taking the time for the instruction. I feel ready to go now. LOL. I am retired so I have plenty of time to work on restoring some old knives. Pics later I hope. Thanks again peppercorn. Mike
    Absolutely, any time.
    If you have any questions/concerns please feel free to PM me or check back in here. And, let's see some before and after pics when the time comes.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    "The surest sign of wonder is exaggeration" Gaston Bachelard

  8. #8
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    I also look for older knives to clean back up and add to my collection. I have found that the grits of sand papers that are mentioned will also work on any smooth Delrin to remove shallow scratches. I do have a bench grinder with a polishing wheel and that helps a lot to give the knife a new finish. Old tooth brushes are very handy in the cleaning of the knives.

  9. #9
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    Thanks for the additional info. edbeau. Mike

  10. #10
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    One more question and I'll leave you alone. Do you use the sandpaper wet or dry?
    Quote Originally Posted by peppercorn View Post
    GUNNER'
    Yes, sanding would be by hand with wet/dry paper. I like to do the back springs with 320 as that leaves them the closest to a factory satin that i have found.

    If bolsters are beat up badly I'll start with 320 and work up to 800, 1000 or even 1,500. Then I'll polish them with mothers mag polish. Any metal polish works pretty well.

    If I am sanding the blades I'll use a sanding block and follow the factory grind lines/direction. I leave that finish at 320 also, a nice satin, close to factory finish.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by GUNNER63755 View Post
    One more question and I'll leave you alone. Do you use the sandpaper wet or dry?
    GUNNER,
    Not a bother at all. I'm glad that you are forging ahead with your project.

    To answer your question, I usually use the paper dry.
    Sometimes, when I am finishing the blades and back springs, I will use it wet. Whether I choose wet or dry depends on the consistency I am seeing in the finish. Less consistent finish usually will become more consistent when I move from dry to wet.
    The older the paper gets, the more 'broken in' it is, the more consistent it gets when using it dry.

    To complicate matters, different brands of paper also give different levels of finish.

    The beauty of what you are going to do to your knives is that anything you don't like can be easily remedied.

    One more thing. When finishing the blades and back springs the best approach is to go slowly and to be very careful to maintain straight line movements with your paper/sanding block.
    Some guys will only go in one direction, lift, and start again.
    I used to do this but have a pretty good handle on keeping things straight when going back and forth.

    Now, let's see some photos of those old Schrades coming to life and keep those questions coming.
    "The surest sign of wonder is exaggeration" Gaston Bachelard

  12. #12
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    Good looking knifes.

  13. #13
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    Thanks peppercorn. I'll post post some pics when I feel they are worthy. LOL. I ordered a couple of old Hammer Brand single blade fish knives from ebite to practice on. Cheap and they need help. Wish me luck. Mike
    Quote Originally Posted by peppercorn View Post
    GUNNER,
    Not a bother at all. I'm glad that you are forging ahead with your project.

    To answer your question, I usually use the paper dry.
    Sometimes, when I am finishing the blades and back springs, I will use it wet. Whether I choose wet or dry depends on the consistency I am seeing in the finish. Less consistent finish usually will become more consistent when I move from dry to wet.
    The older the paper gets, the more 'broken in' it is, the more consistent it gets when using it dry.

    To complicate matters, different brands of paper also give different levels of finish.

    The beauty of what you are going to do to your knives is that anything you don't like can be easily remedied.

    One more thing. When finishing the blades and back springs the best approach is to go slowly and to be very careful to maintain straight line movements with your paper/sanding block.
    Some guys will only go in one direction, lift, and start again.
    I used to do this but have a pretty good handle on keeping things straight when going back and forth.

    Now, let's see some photos of those old Schrades coming to life and keep those questions coming.

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