Regarding warwood, it is a shock absorptive composite made from corn stover and natural resins. Not very expensive, comes in some basic colors, is pretty durable and somewhat resembles a very hard rubber. It takes a decent polish, but with small occasional specks of actual corn coming to the surface... I make some user-grade chefs with handles made of it.
Last edited by Josh Rider; 03-18-2017 at 06:48 AM.
Big box of stuff for sale:
Knives for sale: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/sh...ardwood-handle
I have never observed TeroTuf moving. I have used several sheets of it on rough use knives. Not really my favorite composite, but it is tough. I keep a sheet or two in the laminates box for use on camping type knives and tools that will get used and abused. It is merely polyester cloth (boatbuilding and auto body repair) and polyester resin. It is softer than the fiberglass/epoxy laminates (G-10) or the phenolic/cloth laminates (Micarta). Polishing TeroTuf to a shine can be tricky without the right abrasives and equipment (best done with diamond compound and polyester belt on a VS grinders or on a clean muslin buffing wheel). Otherwise, it gets a somewhat dull ( but grippy) finish. For my money, Micarta is far better on a knife.
Horse stall matting also makes a tough and light handle for non-pretty knives. The grip is probably the most secure, wet or dry, of any handle material.
It is better to die fighting evil than to live under it.
Grippy finish . I'd like to see some comments on dealing with finish.
I have a Survive!Knives phenolic/cotton handle which I find very good for a working knife as it's quite grippy even when wet. I also have a Micarta [fiber unknown ] that has been highly polished . The too smooth finish is not good as a working knife as in skinning and butchering a deer . Suggestions ??
Mete, I have had some thoughts about canvas micarta sand blasted to give the grippy texture and then lightly sprayed with some kind of poly (?) "fixative" to give it back it's original color. To my eye there are very few things uglier than green or black Micarta that is gray.
Carothers Performance Knives subforum: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/fo...ormance-Knives
20 3V 3" EDC, Friday March 31st here: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/fo...e-Fixed-Blades
I think a coat of spar varnish would do the same thing and probably last a lot longer.
People say to use WD40 but you have to reapply it every so often. My understand is that light blasting eats away the resnbeowwnethe cloth fibers, but leabves the coated fibers standing proud. I would think that a VERY thin coat some hard finish would be best and yet still leave most of that texture, at least with canvas. What little micarta I have used has been buffed so i have no personal experience.
Hmm. I might blast the handle in question and see what happens if I dunk it in varnish. That's what mules are for.
But , if you coat micarta with some hard finish it is no more micarta and why you would use it for handle on knive ?
If you say so Look ,only reason why I will use micarta for handle is how good grip is when it s wet and because it looks like it is one hundred years old when you finish work on handle
I also don't care for heavy handle materials on a large knife, since it can throw off the balance. So far I'm content with figured walnut. I have heard of ultralight rifle builders who make the stock out of foam, and then cover the whole thing in a layer of fiberglass.
Smallswords and rapiers often had handles made of hollow metal sheet, including pierced steel. If you used a grade that could be spring tempered, I imagine the strength to weight ratio of the finished piece would be very high indeed.
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