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Thread: How to cut a small hidden tang slot?

  1. #1
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    How to cut a small hidden tang slot?


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    I decided to make several small 'cheese knives' for some of the craft shows we attend and I didn't think it through a lot I suppose, but I ended up with tangs that are about 1/4" x 1 1/2" and only about 1/16" thick. I can't figure out how to cut this small of a slot into the handle material. I suppose a 1/16" drill bit is where to start, but I don't know how to open up the slot to 1/4"

    Any advice/tips are appreciated-Thanks,Don
    WTB single blade sheepfoot barlow

  2. #2
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    I do this for my handles. Finish with a micro rasp if I need to enlarge.

  3. #3
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    Thanks--are those sabre saw blades or what?
    WTB single blade sheepfoot barlow

  4. #4
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    Yes, the 2 on the left are sabre saw blades and the one on the right is from a small hobby hack saw. I just ground them down. These are all for 3/32 stock.
    I'll probably make a handle for them soon, just been busy and it hasn't really bothered me.
    These guys also work amazing, I connect the holes with the small saw blades then fill in as needed with the rasps. The bigger saw blade I use to expand the hole if needed.
    http://www.micromark.com/Needle-Rasp-Set
    https://www.woodcraft.com/products/n...p-set-w-handle
    I use the micromark set because I was on a budget but will be grabbing the set off woodcraft soon. For the price, the micromark have cleared out a good amount of african blackwood blocks..
    -Trey

  5. #5
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    I wasn't aware of the micro rasps, I will definitely be looking to get a set of those!
    WTB single blade sheepfoot barlow

  6. #6
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    By far, the simplest method is to drill two holes that are about 75% of the desired slot size and cut out the material between them with a jewelers saw. After a little practice, and slot size can be cut in a minute or two. After the slot is cut out, file it to a perfect fit. One piece of advice is to lift back the saw a tad on the return stroke. "Sawing" back and forth with these small blades will kill the teeth in a dozen strokes. If a blade stops cutting well, or wants to cut in a curve .... replace it right away. Lubricating the blade with a little candle wax is also a good idea.

    If slotting a deep bolster block, like the ones Comet showed, mill/rout out the back side so you are only slotting about 1/4" of wood. I do this on thick metal guards, too.

    Try #3 blades work good for soft metal, #1 for steel, and #7 blades for wood. From there you can go to whatever blade size you feel comfortable with.
    Stacy E.Apelt
    It is better to die fighting evil than to live under it.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fish30114 View Post
    I decided to make several small 'cheese knives' for some of the craft shows we attend and I didn't think it through a lot I suppose, but I ended up with tangs that are about 1/4" x 1 1/2" and only about 1/16" thick. I can't figure out how to cut this small of a slot into the handle material. I suppose a 1/16" drill bit is where to start, but I don't know how to open up the slot to 1/4"

    Any advice/tips are appreciated-Thanks,Don
    I tried several times and did not like how it turned out , slot was to wide and I don t want to use metal bolster / that is probably even more complicated to do that thin..../ Probably I do not have the necessary tools so I solved the problem like this .......Two piece wood , tang between them pressed hard and glued in this tool ............come prefect , no visible gap between steel and wood /walnut/ .Steel is 1.5mm thick







  8. #8
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    Good intel folks, thanks for the scoop Stacy, I will try some with that methodology.
    WTB single blade sheepfoot barlow

  9. #9
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    [QUOTE=Natlek;17023276]I tried several times and did not like how it turned out , slot was to wide and I don t want to use metal bolster / that is probably even more complicated to do that thin..../ Probably I do not have the necessary tools so I solved the problem like this .......Two piece wood , tang between them pressed hard and glued in this tool ............come prefect , no visible gap between steel and wood /walnut/ .Steel is 1.5mm thick
    QUOTE]

    Cool looking clamps there, where did you get them?
    WTB single blade sheepfoot barlow

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    [QUOTE=Fish30114;17023389]
    Quote Originally Posted by Natlek View Post
    I tried several times and did not like how it turned out , slot was to wide and I don t want to use metal bolster / that is probably even more complicated to do that thin..../ Probably I do not have the necessary tools so I solved the problem like this .......Two piece wood , tang between them pressed hard and glued in this tool ............come prefect , no visible gap between steel and wood /walnut/ .Steel is 1.5mm thick
    QUOTE]

    Cool looking clamps there, where did you get them?
    From old heavy truck cabin lift air pressure cylinder ............Something like on the picture ,not exactly that but similar ............I m mechanic


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