I think this blade is the Survival Golok L, I have to check the length. It is 590 g and balanced 9.5 cm in front of the handle, 10.5 cm in front of the center of my index finger. This translates to a decent amount of heft, about the same a a large blade heavy bowie for example. It can be seen on the following page :
The primary grind is dual tapered convex, with a false edge. The primary convex taper runs to a very acute edge. Specifically the edge is at ~10 degree per side until the blade hits about 0.056" in thickness, at which point it sweeps back even faster. Here is a shot of the entire profile :
Here are the numbers for those interested (inches ) :
This was taken about the middle of the blade, the knife has a significant taper thus the profile will be slimmer than this towards the tip, and thicker towards the handle. The polish on the primary grind is decent, but some heavy scratches can still be seen, as well as one forge mark, plus there are "waves" in the bevel which can be felt by running your finger tips along the grind.
There are also a few other issues, some purely cosmetic like the fact that the false edge is skewed to one side. But some are more serious like the fact that the tang isn't fully seated into the handle, about a mm of gap is seen, and on one side the tang is formed with a very square transition. This is the worst place to have a stress risor. If this was a work blade and not an evaluation piece I would grind that out.
The NIB sharpness ranged from decent to poor along the blade. The first four inches were very dull, less than 1/10 of the ability of a freshly sharpened blade. There was a sharp spot of about two inches long in the middle and about six inches back from the tip was sharp as well. These two regions were from 1/2 to 1/3 of optimal. They could for example slice paper, but would tear it in sections. The top edge is very dull, can't catch on fingernail for example. It also has a visible file mark along about five inches of its length.
The handle is very smooth and I was concerned it would not be functional because of a lack of security. However the contours do allow a firm grip and I had no trouble on grass, weeds and even some scrap. I then used some chicken skin to grease up the grip and repeated the cutting. While the handle did move around some, I still was in no danger of losing control. The end swell also obviously prevents this in extremes, but my grip never slipped that far.
The blade bit in decently on the wood, definately above average which you would expect given the profile. On grass it did well near the tip, but the other blunter regions mashed the grasses and lighter leafy vegetation around rather than cleanly cut them. This is just a matter of sharpness and will be fixed shortly. The cutting ability for this task looks to be very on par with a couple of Martindale machetes, and it moves more freely in the thicker wood.
Using just CrO on leather to polish the blade (30 per side), the edge went down to within a few percent of optimal for all but a few inches of blade, can shave decently for example. So it was just a matter of a little edge burr for the most part, which was verified by checking the edge under magnification which reveals the the grain structure clearly.
Outside of the square transition on one side of the tang, the blade looks very solid and it will be interesting to compare it to a few Martindale blades, khukuris, plus a very similar custom that I had made last year, among others.