Page 1 of 4 1234 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 76

Thread: How I clean my Sebenza (with pictures)

  1. #1

    How I clean my Sebenza (with pictures)

    Support BladeForums!
    Paid memberships don't see ads!
    Please note that for whatever reason, the photos are no longer available. I have tried to contact Ted but have received no response. Please click on the link to our website and you will find full instructions! Anne Reeve

    Hi, this post outlines the procedures (with pictures) to take your Sebenza apart, where to lube it, and put it back together again.

    The same text & pictures is now also available on the CRK site:

    The procedures have been fine tuned with comments from Chris & Anne Reeve. Below are the two quotes from them for dis-assemble and re-assemble


    When disassembling a Sebenza, undo the pivot screw, remove it and the pin and then slide the blade out. You can see the pressure on Chris' thumb as he is pushing the blade left.
    Set the blade aside, then undo and remove the other two screws and pins. This way is a little safer and overall it’s a bit easier.

    The handle must be assembled first and both screws tightend. Just comfortably tight (this applied to all the screws!). The blade assembly (blade, pivot and 2 bronze washers) is then inserted between the handle slabs. If it will not go in, you do not have it assembled correctly. Do not loosen the handle screws off. Once the blade assembly is in the handles, line up the pivot hole and insert the pin. The allen wrench can help you line this up. Tighten the screw into the pin. Flick the knife open once and you are ready to go. This is the only time flicking is advised!
    But, pictures say more than a thousand words

    Start with the knife closed

    Then, unscrew only the pivot-screw (most-left in the picture), remove the screw, and with the allen-wrench, push/tap out the pivot pin.

    Open the knife slightly, and then pull out the blade, as shown here in a picture from Chris Reeve. It will require a bit of force, but try to do it gently.

    Then, unscrew the other screws and take everything apart.

    So you get this

    Then clean all the parts. CRK advises to NOT use any polishing materials.
    Assembly the handles, with only the stop-pin+screw&pin and the backspacer+screw&pin. Screw them down normally tight, but not over-tight. The wrench is a harder material then the screws, so if you use to much force, you risk stripping the screws heads!

    Leave that, and start oiling the blade. Put oil on the areas where the washers go, and inside the pivot area. Also put some oil on the tang where the lock bar normally engages.

    Last edited by Chris Reeve Knives; 01-29-2013 at 08:03 PM.

  2. #2
    Put the washers on the blade, and insert the bushing. They will 'stick' to the blade because of the oil.


    Then align the blade/washers/bushing with the handles

    and start inserting it into the handles. At first you might think that it doesn't fit, but it SHOULD fit! If it doesn't fit, you assembled it wrong, see message from Chris Reeve at the top.

    You need to hold the blade in such a way that you keep the bushing in place with your thumb and fore-finger and then slide it between the handles.

    Do not unscrew the stop-pin screw to make room. It should and will fit!

    Last edited by TedV; 07-07-2009 at 10:42 AM.

  3. #3
    After it's inserted so far that the bushing is between the handles, you need to unlock the lockbar to slide it further. Then align the pivot hole from the handle with the blade pivot hole.

    Hold it up against the light to see if it's properly aligned. Otherwise the pin won't fit. Don't force the pin in, it should slide in normally. Once it's in, put in the screw and screw down tight. Open the blade as shown:

    Then, only once, you're allowed to (gently) flick the blade open, then close it and open it normally and it's smooth and lock up is tight and in the right spot.

    A 'print version' of the procedures is available in this thread:

    A very good video of the procedure, made by Danish Viking is available here:

    click here

    Good luck!

    Last edited by TedV; 07-07-2009 at 10:43 AM.

  4. #4
    Just wanted to say what a brilliant job you did with the pics Ted. They should have them up on the CRK site!


  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 1999
    Northeastern PA
    Very handy reference, thanks!
    "The Road to Hell is Paved with Good Intentions!"
    Take the time to read your Bible Now, don't be left behind...

    Psalm 1

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2003

    Thumbs up

    Very nice photographs...

    The relevant picture is better than a long explanation !

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 1999
    Excellent tutorial ! Thanks !

    Boy. . .I'm glad that I've been doing it right this whole time !

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    LaVergne, Tennessee
    Would a tough cloth be good enough for lubing my Sebenza or should I pick up some militec? Also, is the CRK lube any better than militec?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 1998
    Nice job, should make a great reference.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 1999
    Someone needs to get with a Super Mod and have them tack this thread on the top of this forum.

    I don't know how many threads that I've seen that asked the simple question(s) of how to put a Sebbie back together properly.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Up North
    Originally posted by GigOne
    Someone needs to get with a Super Mod and have them tack this thread on the top of this forum.

    I don't know how many threads that I've seen that asked the simple question(s) of how to put a Sebbie back together properly.
    I'll second that.

    Survivor! #21

    "A sharp tongue is the only edged tool that grows keener with use." - Washington Irving

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2001

    As a Sebenza newbie... I would like to thank you for a most informative post.


  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Ted, with your post, I will now disassemble my Sebbie for the first time. Technical explanations are great, but your pictures and simple instructions are just what I needed to gain confidence and not worry about crimped washers. I thank you and my EDC thanks you

  14. #14
    Glad I could be of some help. I'll try to update the picture off the parts, it's a bit fuzzy.


    I explicitly left out details on how I clean and oil, because everybody seems to have it's own preferred way.
    (And I don't know the english words for the cleaning stuff that I use

    But, about your question,

    Would a tough cloth be good enough for lubing my Sebenza or should I pick up some militec? Also, is the CRK lube any better than militec?
    A Tuff (Sentry Solutons) (I guess you meant that) cloth is I believe for corrosion protection. Tuff glide will work as an oil. Militec is also good. CRK Grease seems to be the best but I never tested that.


  15. #15
    Join Date
    May 2001
    Great thread, great pictures. I agree, this should be a sticky. Maybe some kind mod will help us out.

  16. #16
    That's a great tutorial!
    I prefer Sebenza in my pocket :]

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Bristol, PA
    Excellent job Ted!!! Great tutorial and pix!

    Sticky it!

  18. #18
    Join Date
    May 2001
    Nevada US of A
    Blog Entries
    Ted - your post is destined to become one of the classics. Thank you for taking the time and effort to very clearly document your techniques.

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2000
    Garden Grove, California, U.S.A.
    Wow! Good job Ted!

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    North of INDY, south of the Cornfields
    Nice Photos Ted, great job.

Page 1 of 4 1234 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts