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Thread: Mod'ing The CS Trail Hawk

  1. #21
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    What about Brownell's GunKote? I have seen it used on several pistols with great long term durability. VERY stinky during the baking stage!

    http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/sto...il.aspx?p=1150

    Would the 300 degrees for one hour put the temper at risk though???

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Revolvergeek View Post
    What about Brownell's GunKote? I have seen it used on several pistols with great long term durability. VERY stinky during the baking stage!
    If it's stinky Mr.s Q will beat me with a stick if I use her oven and she can't beat awlful damn hard.

    I'm really fixated on Parkerizing right now, but I may buy a can of that Brownells GUN-KOTE and see how that works. I see it comes in colors too! Ohhhhh lord...nice!



    Here the best article on cold bluing I read, good stuff...

    http://www.gunsandammomag.com/gunbench/blue_0515/

    And here are some selected quotes from the article...

    The single largest drawback of cold bluing, however, is that it provides no rust protection. In fact, some blues may even promote rusting. I have a sporterized '03 Springfield that I just can't seem to find the time to blue. Years ago I darkened the metal with a highly respected brand of cold bluing and soon discovered it made the perfect rust gauge. During those hot, muggy summer spells in the Midwest, it's always the first gun to take on a fine film of rust, even beating out bare metal guns that have not yet been treated. If all you want is darkened metal, don't let me talk you out of doing an entire gun with cold bluing; it looks better than paint. However, the real usefulness of cold bluing is touching up small areas, those little dings or worn spots that aren't bad enough to warrant a complete rebluing but need some coloring to keep them from becoming an embarrassment.
    At the top end of the durability spectrum is one worthy of special note, Brownell's Oxpho-Blue. This stuff wears like chrome plating. You can scrub on it with fine steel wool until the cows come home and not harm the finish one bit. It does, however, have a rather strange appearance. It comes out sort of a metallic, charcoal gray that is very shiny. With many blues the slightest trace of oil is the kiss of death; however, another unique quality of Oxpho-Blue is that it actually goes on better if there is a little oil present during the application. In fact, the best way to apply Oxpho-Blue is with steel wool, which has a considerable amount of oil in it to prevent the fibers from rusting.

  3. #23
    Neat thing about krylon is when it gets buggered up, you just paint it again.

  4. #24
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    E-mail sent.

  5. #25
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    Email replied!

  6. #26
    a while back I bought a parkerizing kit off the net...it was about $30...pretty easy to use just boiling chemicals to a certain temp....It worked so well I did my CS trailhawks, An older RMJ, and the slide off my Kel tec pistol....the finish worked great on the hawk heads

  7. #27
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    how did you wrap the handle?


    Smith11

  8. #28
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    Awesome job CQ.

  9. #29
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    The job is about to get better. A whole lot better.

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smith11 View Post
    how did you wrap the handle?
    Did what I was told...

    http://www.therangerdigest.com/Tips_...fe_handle.html

  11. #31
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    thanks CQ!!did you ever think of bead blasting then blueing the axe head?

  12. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smith11 View Post
    thanks CQ!!did you ever think of bead blasting then blueing the axe head?
    I'm building four more moded Trail Hawks and a good guy has offered to bead blast and Parkerize three of the heads and express blue the fourth. I'm very excited at the prospect of this development.

    This article...

    http://www.gunsandammomag.com/gunbench/blue_0515/

    ...says that bluing may not be the best alternative for rust prevention. Check it out...itsa good read.

  13. #33
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    good reading thanks!

    do you have a time line on the Parkerizing job?I want to see the pic's of that ASAP!

  14. #34
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    I expect it will be several weeks. I've ordered the hawks and then I have to ship them to Mr. Parker who's then gotta find the time.

  15. #35
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    well, I've caught the CS Trailhawk modding bug thanks to you. I've got one on order and can't wait to get my hands on it! I think I'm going to follow your lead with the Minwax ebony sealer - looks really good.

    Thanks for posting the pics! You've added another item to my too-long list of projects...

  16. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by akennedy73 View Post
    well, I've caught the CS Trailhawk modding bug thanks to you. I've got one on order and can't wait to get my hands on it! I think I'm going to follow your lead with the Minwax ebony sealer - looks really good.
    There's one (1) coat of exterior poly on that haft too bud.

  17. #37
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    Thumbs up

    Why would I file the inside of the steel hawk head eye to better fit the handle? If I do that...and the current handle breaks...the replacement handle may not fit the filed/modified eye. On the face of it, a much better solution would be to sand the handle to fit the eye. No?

    One thing I noticed with my CS Rifleman hawk was that the upper and lower edge of the eye were so sharp that they were cutting my handles up, instead of simply compressing the wood a bit, they were actually cutting it when I threw it. I took a small round file and simply "broke" the sharp edges a bit. This has made my handles stand up to throwing a lot better. I did not remove much, just enough take the sharp square edge off, but it did change the fit on to the handles a bit, but not for the worse.

  18. #38
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    sorry those first two lines were supposed to be a quote of CitizenQ

  19. #39
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    I just started a mod project on my new CS norse hawk. I am going for a primitive style so gun blue is definitely the right choice.
    Gun blue is actually better than parking which was done because it was cheaper and you could do big batches. The story about the Springfield is an excellent example of the dangers of anecdotal evidence. The rust was probably caused by the fact that older guns have steel with much less chromium and alloys than modern guns not the bluing process.

  20. #40
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    Gun blue is actually better than parking which was done because it was cheaper and you could do big batches. The story about the Springfield is an excellent example of the dangers of anecdotal evidence. The rust was probably caused by the fact that older guns have steel with much less chromium and alloys than modern guns not the bluing process.
    Bluing is a rusting process, just controlled. If the chemicals are not rinsed and or neutralized the rusting process continues. Rust bluing (and Browning) require the parts be exposed to high humidity for up to several weeks and the rust is carded off.(wire brushed)

    Park is a coating that clauses some amount of etching but actually builds up on the surface of the metal.

    The advantage to Park is that it has pores/ a crystalline structure that will absorb and hold any oil or rust preventive. That is why it is the perfect sub straight for the paint finishes that were mentioned above. I would not Gun-Kote over bare metal that can be parkerised.

    Caustic Blue, the industry standard and parkerising are applied in the same manner. The parts are cleaned and dipped. Bluing requires app. 100 deg. more heat. I park at 195 + and bluing begins at 290-295. Niter blue requires heat as high as 700+.

    Parts being parked will set in the tank about 5-7 minuets, Bluing can take 20+ for the desired Finish. Park is applied over a blasted Finish for the best bond and will hide a 180 grit blasted Finnish. Bluing can be applied to any grade of finish but will accent any flaws in the metal. A 600 grit sanded finish may shine but you will see the scratches in the proper light.

    Any park finish is less reflective than the dullest blue finish.

    Blue is much more sensitive to any oils on the parts being finished. Even the oils from your fingers can cause discolorations.

    When a part is blued and oiled the oil sits on the surface of the part. When parked the oil is absorbed in to the parking a layer that will be as much as .005 thicker.

    I find no real difference in the durability of hand guns VS holster ware in either finish. I would say the same would be true for a blade as well. I do find that blue sands and blast off easier than park because blue is thinner.

    The only time I find bluing better is when I want a prettier, traditional or factory type finish or when I want a smoother finish with some degree of rust protection.

    My 2 cents.

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