cool vids. what angle is your base?
I made another set of video on how to sharpen, more detailed then previous one - about 14 clips.
Last edited by nozh2002; 04-16-2008 at 11:31 AM.
I think its really cool that you took the time to make those. I use a different approach, which probably isn't as efficient, but there is no doubt in my mind that if people follow your instructions they will end up with a scary sharp knife. Well done, nice contribution
Great videos! Thanks for sharing these.
Ok, I'm exactly the type of guy you made that for. Couple of dumb questions.....
Those were diamond stones, right? Couldn't see on the video's, what grits did you progress through?
How did you make the strop?
If I'm sharpening a blade without any curve to it, like a wharcliffe, I just move the blade straight up the ramp, right?
I really like the idea of using the ramp and just keeping the blade parallel to the table top. That has to be easier to maintain a consistent angle!
Thanks for the help!
Here more about stand-base
and here some details of leather tool
For straight edge you move it straight - much easy.
Vassili, of all the things I've seen posted on bladeforums, I've found this to be the most helpful, thank you.
Wonderful and thanks for posting!!!
Nice job. Should help a lot of folks.
Great vids! That edge looks scary sharp
Thanks for your videos, Vassili. Without them I wouldn't have been able to get to hair splitting. I'm now trying to get to hair whittling.
What I love about your videos is the silence. These informative pictures can make sense on any continent. The information it conveys crosses every language barrier. The only thing I can hear is a ticking clock, which is a nice touch--so I know my audio is still working.
Very interesting, thanks for these.
On a related note, I hope this isn't too stupid, but these super sharp edges will not last very long, right? In other words, is this a challenge to yourself and your knife, or will you be able to cut, let's say a dozen tomatoes with little to no pressure?
Nice work, Vassili. Particularly with the stropping, I think many will find your videos useful, studying both the angle and pressure being used ... IMO much, much better than the technique HandAmerican (for example) recommends, which stands a very good chance of actually dulling the edge.
But it will stay sharp for much longer then so called "working edge" - it will take some time for it to get to the same dullness as "working edge" has initially and then from that зщште they will dull side by side same way. No really magic here of course.
Again if you are not able to whittle hair - your edge is rolled out (dulled by polishing) or you have burr not removed. Usually people can not see it and this is why we have all those conclusion about it not staying sharp for long (wire edge) or about not aggressive cut (rolled edge) etc... Not too many able to sharpen edge to this point, but everybody ready to give you advise and raze opinion...
Last edited by nozh2002; 04-16-2008 at 08:16 PM.
But if you can roll the edge while polishing, won't you roll the edge while cutting things? I'm not criticizing, I'm genuinely curious.
Now let not mix different thing. After let say Extra Fine DMT you have edge as fine as 9 micron abrasive on this stone. Then if you polish it wrong - you will dull this edge rolling it out and it will be equal to let say - 20 cuts of manila rope or may be as good as like 40 microns edge but toothless. So it will stay behind on 20 cuts or bring your ede back to previous stone - Coarse DMT (just for example).
If you actually sharpen and not roll it out it will be edge as fine as 0.2 microns. Which will require 20 manila rope cuts to bring it to same level as 40 microns edge.
So if you have not roll edge - you are 20 cuts ahead, if you will roll out edge - you are 20 cuts behind.
This may be bit simplistic and did not count tooth which any edge has after proper sharpening and burr removed, but with some degree of approcsimation this is what happening IMHO.
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