I sent you an email.
I sent you an email.
I'm not trying to cut the owners out of a sale, as I want them to stay in business and thrive, so we may continue to have the opportunity to buy more later on, if needed.
"inquiring minds want to know"
Are you asking what the wax does?
If you're looking for spares Grizzly seems to carry wheels, wax and grit, etc separately. I'm picking up a set and then a spare of each wheel to put a crowned profile on for my recurves.
I like using knives.
Looking for: Custom scales for Benchamde 710,
I did some work with my paper wheels this afternoon. For the first time I got out the gritted wheel to see how it worked. Before I have just used the slotted wheel to polish edges I worked up on my Edge Pro. On normal steels (not 3V, stainless kitchen knives and 1095 or similar) this works VERY nicely.
For something different I tried the gritted wheel and the polishing on the slotted wheel. Maybe I am a bit more picky, but I did not think the edges worked up and finished very well. Getting a burr worked up was very easy. In fact, most of the time I dialed the speed way down to low on my grinder because it takes steel pretty quick.
Overall I just was not impressed. It is almost like going from a 220 grit finish on my Edge Pro to a polish on the slotted wheel. I did get some pretty sharp edges, sharp enough for kitchen duty (with micro serrations to get through skins on fruits like tomatoes) but I've had much better results working up an edge to 600 or 1000 grit on my EP first.
Are you applying the wax on the gritted wheel? It should cut back on the rate of metal removal for you. I was not having great success with mine at first, and then I found out I was not getting a good enough burr on the edge. After making that adjustment, I was getting hair shaving results with mine. They do not take much metal away if done properly. I was afraid of removing too much metal at first, and was not grinding a good burr before going to the buffing wheel. With the right amount of wax, it does not take excess metal away or get too hot while grinding. Slow and easy is what works for me. YMMV
I would imagine that the slower the RPM, the more effective (aggressive) the gritted wheel would be. Grinders typically come with a 36 grit wheel, which has the effectiveness of about 80 grit when at speed. Experiment with the wax and speeds and I think you'll have better results.
I did have wax on there, so much so that some places were loaded completely. Once I ran through about 5 knives it started working in to the grit more. I will experiment with speed next time.
Is there a way to remove the grit? I put the rouge on the grit wheel, wax on the slotted wheel (turned the grinder).
Use a good carpenter's glue and make sure to smooth out the glue before rolling on the new grit. If you have any clumps of glue, you will have uneven bumps on the re-gritted wheel when done. You can use a finer sandpaper to grind the wax off of the slotted wheel. Again use a good flat board to grind the slotted wheel. Good luck, it is easier than it sounds if you take your time and not try to rush it.
Thanks, at least i'll end up with true wheels. The grit wheel didn't feel as smooth as I was expecting out of box, hopefully that will do it. Im impressed with the slotted wheel so far, I only tried with 1 knife though. I'll be checking in after everything is sorted.
Last edited by Rider675; 08-30-2012 at 10:49 AM.
Picked up a complete wheel kit today, and I can't wait to get started on all the knives in the house! To be continued...
You are going to love them I expect. Just remember, don't tighter the nuts very much. Just a little tighter than finger tight. I found out this the hard way and warped my first set, by tightening to much. Just remember to read the instructions thourghly, as you are assembling them.
Ok, so I have been using the wheels for a few days now with mixed results. I have had some really scary sharp knives, and some not so great, however I know that with more practice I will achieve consistent results. Anyway, not to scare anyone away from the paper wheels, but I had a little incident while using them the other night, which I feel is a great safety lesson to share with other beginners.
I bought a 6" Ryobi bench grinder from a popular home improvement depot for my 8" wheels, and was happily grinding away on a few knives (wheels rotating toward me). I quickly realized that the grinder I bought was just not the right fit, that is to say, the distance between the wheels was too short. This didn't really bother me too much, as the knives I was working on were smaller folders. About a week before I bought the wheels, a friend of mine had given me a large machete to sharpen, which I had been working on with files, hones and strops. I grabbed the machete, which was already very sharp (stropped on leather with 1 mic Boron Carbide) and started working it on the buffing wheel. Everything was going fine, although it was a bit awkward because I was concentrating more on trying to avoid running my hand and the machete into the grit wheel. Somehow I found myself buffing at about the 4 O'Clock position with the machete edge facing into the wheel. At exactly the moment I realized what I was doing wrong, the edge of the machete caught the wheel. The machete flew directly into my stomach, and it was just blind luck that I got hit with the wide, flat side of the blade instead of the sharp edge. I just sat there, stunned for a moment, then quickly began checking for injuries. When I lifted up my shirt, I could see a long, wide, red mark across my stomach, as though someone had hit me with the flat side of a 2 x 4. When I finally turned off the grinder, I saw that both the buffing wheel and the grit wheel had a deep gash, about an inch into the paper material. Thankfully, I was able to repair the wheels enough to keep using them, however I have since remounted them on a much wider grinder. I am sure this has already been said many times in this thread, but I want to stress to new users of the paper wheels to get yourself a nice wide grinder or buffer for the wheels, so that you have plenty of clearance, PAY ATTENTION TO WHAT YOU ARE DOING, and AVOID ANY DISTRACTIONS while using the wheels. Good luck!
Sorry to hear your mishap and glad you are OK.
One of teh resons I run the wheels the other way and grind on top .... throws it away from me.
www.zbsharpening.com - Knife Sharpening Service
When working on wide blades you can always remove one wheel.
I have noticed the same problem working on longer kitchen knives. For all my fixed blade knifes I am OK, then again the only wheel I run on them is the slotted wheel for buffing. I am not much of a fan of the grit wheel. I'd rather work up edges on my Edge Pro then finish on the slotted wheel.
That is exactly why I have the HF 6" buffer for my wheels. They are wider apart and give you more room to work larger knives. I sharpened a machete last week on mine that was sharp enough to push cut paper when I was finished. It was longer than the distance between the wheels, but working at an angle, and being careful, I was able to get the job done. My wheels turn toward me, and I work on the front side and not on top like Richard does. I tried working on top at first, but found that working on the front was easier for me since I have to work sitting down, and can't see over the top of the wheels good enough to keep my angles consistent.
As Alcoholiday said, you have to be careful and pay attention to what you are doing or risk injury. Not just on these wheels, but any rotating machinery. Praise God he wasn't seriously injured, and that the only damage was to the wheels, which are replaceable, unlike ourselves or our body parts.
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)