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Thread: Homemade wood stabilizer recipe And Gadget Thread

  1. #1
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    Homemade wood stabilizer recipe And Gadget Thread


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    in the process of enriching myself with info on doing the right thing ,

    it been proven very hard to have access to Real product which make knife making easier for me .

    i have access to a chemical store near my area which allow me to get my hand of tons of stuff ,

    but when i try to hard to find a commercial wood stabilizer i can;pt even find anything for almost one week .

    so this thread , stared in hope that i can Brew up my own wood stabilizer recipe ..

    one recipe i heard is .. 1.1

    RESIN ( 2% catalyst) + ACETONE ( 10%)

    can anyone verify this ?

    another one i read is Boiling the wood and the using newspaper ( no color type ) wrap it up and let it dry for 3 month .

    someone said about using wood glue mix with 50 % water and dip the wood in for 3-7 days ,and if it show sign of crack dip it again .

    .Troop - recipe
    use a 20% weight to volume mixture of Acryloid B-72 to acetone, and if the wood is very soft, like buckeye burl, I'll throw in a little Minwax Wood Hardener.




    anyone ?
    Last edited by Gabaski; 08-19-2010 at 03:26 PM.

  2. #2
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    http://www.shanghailoctite.com/templ.../RES90C-EN.PDF


    look at the website address and phone numbers on the page bottom

  3. #3
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    Resinol 90c - How do i use it and how it work .

    any info ?

    i read up that is kinda expensive something like $100 a gallon . correct me if i am wrong .

    anyone got Polyurethane Method - does it would with any Polyurethane Method i can get my hand on . some of the Paint shop and workshop area my area have tons of Polyurethane Method . what do i use as solvent . is it any good .

    . i am in Thailand . so is kinda hard to get hold seriosuly good stuff can;t even find Minwax stuff
    Last edited by Gabaski; 08-18-2010 at 04:45 PM.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gabaski View Post
    Resinol 90c - How do i use it and how it work .

    any info ?

    i read up that is kinda expensive something like $100 a gallon . correct me if i am wrong .

    anyone got Polyurethane Method - does it would with any Polyurethane Method i can get my hand on . some of the Paint shop and workshop area my area have tons of Polyurethane Method . what do i use as solvent . is it any good .

    . i am in Thailand . so is kinda hard to get hold seriosuly good stuff can;t even find Minwax stuff

    I did see that you are in Thailand.
    That is the beauty of industrial products, they have international distribution and good documentation. You can read the info sheet, or contact your sales rep for process info.


    http://www.loctite.co.th/cps/rde/xch...e-thailand.htm
    http://www.loctite.co.th/cps/rde/xch...0_THT_HTML.htm

    Yes it is expensive, if something else worked as well, people wouldn't pay the price that this costs.
    you can search "Resinol 90c" for quite a bit of info

    MinWax and polyurethanes will chance colour to a milky white translucent when gotten wet.

  5. #5
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    Thanks for The Info

    anyone have any good and bad point to the product .

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gabaski View Post
    Thanks for The Info

    anyone have any good and bad point to the product .
    There's a guy who sells wood here, burl source who has/is using the Resinol 90C with a paint pot type set up, but he's now sending stuff out to be professionally stabilized instead. He might comment on your question regarding the good and bad of 90C. No professional processors use 90C that I'm aware of as it was not engineered for wood filling. I'm sure the home garage processors have mixed results depending on skill and knowledge of chemistry, polymerization, impregnation and hygroscopics.

    Professional blends use many chemicals combined in a "cocktail" including compatible cross linkers to provide various added physical properties like sanding quality, surface hardness, etc. I use seven plus chemicals in my blend, but this differs from others so there IS NOT just ONE wood product called "stabilized wood" The process was developed in the late 1940's and early '50s and has not changed all that much in 60 years. The chemicals and process can result in hazardous situations so one should fully know what they are getting in to.

  7. #7
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    Definitely, if you can swing it, send it out to a professional wood stabilizing service. Nothing can compare.
    However, I, being the cheapskate that I am, use a 20% weight to volume mixture of Acryloid B-72 to acetone, and if the wood is very soft, like buckeye burl, I'll throw in a little Minwax Wood Hardener.

    Will my concoction fill gaps? ... NO.
    Will it waterproof my wood? ... NO.

    Have I ever had any wood "move" on me, ever? ...NO.

    I use a real good tung/ Danish oil finish after the scales are set on the tang, to help waterproof it.

    No complaints from my customers.

  8. #8
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    I been hunting around and Resinol 90C don't seen to the a Good option as the price is kinda high , had not used it so really do not know much about it . , and like what Larry D. Davis Said . Seem like no professional Processors use it .

    I went shopping today in one of the Mega Store that deal with all kinds tools and house hardware and construction stuff store . all i found is Polyurethane stuff that give Matt or Gross to surface on wood , as well as woodstain that is suppose to be water proof and oil proof the wood ,

    so now is seriously considering using Polyurethane and thinner mixture for the process.

    but then again . i am still very much open for recipe and idea.. would not be doing any of this till early next month .

    since i just got my KMG clone build up and VFC send it a few days ago .

    share your recipe


    Troop ,

    your recipe sound cool . well as much as i don;t mind spending , i prefer to be on the knowing side of stuff..

    .
    so the hunt go on

    sharpen your knowledge
    Gabaski

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