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Thread: Crosscut Saw Thread

  1. #41
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    I need to build a bucking jig like you've got there. How do you like that one? Do you ever wish it was longer? Ever feel the need to stake it down? Have any tricks for tensioning that chain? It'd be nice to have a chain hooked up to a screw like on a pipe vice. Hmmmm.

    Anyway, here's a pic of my saws.


  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Square_peg View Post
    Now you need a one man saw.......
    I just went back to the start of the thread and saw your one-man. Wow, nice set of saws you've got there.

  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by quietmike View Post
    Are any of the modern crosscut saw any good?
    I saw a Forest Service review that said that the Tuatahi saws out of New Zealand are OK, but not quite as good as a well tuned vintage saw.

    http://www.tuatahiaxes.com/pegWorkSaws.html

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Square_peg View Post
    I saw a Forest Service review that said that the Tuatahi saws out of New Zealand are OK, but not quite as good as a well tuned vintage saw.

    http://www.tuatahiaxes.com/pegWorkSaws.html
    Seems only natural. Demand is much lower, which means there's less competition to keep standards at their highest.


    Baryonyx Knife Co. ~Trusted specialists in high value, low cost knives and tools.

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  5. #45
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    I've got those two plain tooths, those are 4 foot I think. Great saws and really simple to maintain. I have a couple 36" saws, one champion tooth and one perf-lance, but they are in rough shape (perf-lance is rusty and out of joint, the champion has no tension and kinks very easily). I do have a 42" tuttle tooth that I loaned off to a friend of mine as well. Yes, that 4' simonds actually does make a great single bucker. Even has the long set of cutters at the end to start the kerf. Tuttle and champion patterns are usually set up for hardwood, but I did that simonds at 10/1000 set and 10/1000 raker depth so as to work in both hardwoods and softwoods. Looking at the spine, its incredible how much taper there is to that thing so 10/1000 should provide plenty of clearance even in green wood.

    Tuatahi saws are very good from what I here. They come tuned up from Dolly Chapman, who is definitely one of the better filers around today. But, they are very expensive and also flat ground. If I had 600 bucks to play with, I'd be picking up vintage and NOS simonds, disston and atkins saws and 100-200 a piece and filing them myself. There are some cool features on the tuatahi though, I think they are wrested (the teeth are bent instead of hammer set) but then they are actually honed to their final desired measurement. Thats some precision right there.

    The saw buck is based loosely off a design I saw from another crosscut guy. It's big and wide so it doesn't wobble when sawing like a smaller buck will. I like the size because I can make all the cuts I need to on a 4 ft. stick of wood to turn it to stove chunks without repositioning it. The chain is just loose, with a hook on one end, I just wrap it around smaller stuff that doesn't want to sit still.

  6. #46
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    The parts for my underbuck arrived from Reid Supply today. I'll post another pic once it's assembled.

    http://www.theaxehole.com/making_a_u..._tool_usda.pdf


  7. #47
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    Well isn't that clever!


    Baryonyx Knife Co. ~Trusted specialists in high value, low cost knives and tools.

    "To live at all is miracle enough."
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  8. #48
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    I had to drill out one of the pins to install the pulley.


  9. #49
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    The underbuck clamps to the handle of your axe and supports your crosscut saw when you need to cut up from the bottom of a log.


  10. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pipeman View Post
    I cut them up into knives ;-)) Me bad .


    Regards

    Robin
    same here. i have qualms every time i do it, but usually i only cut up the most worn out and badly rusted crosscut saws with broken teeth. the two man saws i find have handles missing most of the time

    i love these old saws even though they were used to cut down the giants.
    the steel is great for knives

    buzz

  11. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by Square_peg View Post
    The underbuck clamps to the handle of your axe and supports your crosscut saw when you need to cut up from the bottom of a log.

    looks like you could use some saw handle nuts?

    buzz

  12. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by M3mphis View Post
    Good stuff. Can't wait to get my hands on one...and a jointer...and raker gauge...pin gauge...spider gauges...special shaped files...swage hammer...build a vice....phwew, did I miss anything?!

    Matt
    you really don't need all this stuff. a good triangle file and a way to clamp your saw is just about it.
    you can make a good clamp using two 2X4's.

    buzz

  13. #53
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    You might be able to refile a saw with just a file, but to bring one back to life you need some basic tools. a jointer, a feeler gauge, a flat and triangular file, a tinners hammer and a anvil for setting, and a vice is all you need if you are crafty enough to make your own tools for some things. I make my own spider gauges with planed chunks of wood and screws, just measure the clearance on one foot with the feeler gauge. same with the rakers, you can check them manually with a flat edge across the adjacent cutters using a feeler. There ain't no way I could afford all the fancy tools out there, but the things they accomplish are important and they are easy to "fabricate" at home.

    I have had to replace the screws in handles many times with mix and match specials from my bolt jar, much like Square_peg has done there as long as it stays tight with no play its fine.

  14. #54
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    The specialized handle screws are quite expensive, unfortunately. I've always thought they'd look nice on knife handles, too.


    Baryonyx Knife Co. ~Trusted specialists in high value, low cost knives and tools.

    "To live at all is miracle enough."
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  15. #55
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    Yeah, I should probably get some screws.

    I just clamp my saw in my blacksmithing vise for sharpening. I'm considering getting a dedicated saw vise but I don't really need one. I set the rakers with a feeler gauge, use a homemade spider and set the teeth with a small ball peen hammer and a 3 lb. sledge as my anvil. I don't delude myself that I'm getting a perfect saw, but it works, it cuts fast and it doesn't hang up. It's OK.

  16. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by Square_peg View Post
    Yeah, I should probably get some screws.

    I just clamp my saw in my blacksmithing vise for sharpening. I'm considering getting a dedicated saw vise but I don't really need one. I set the rakers with a feeler gauge, use a homemade spider and set the teeth with a small ball peen hammer and a 3 lb. sledge as my anvil. I don't delude myself that I'm getting a perfect saw, but it works, it cuts fast and it doesn't hang up. It's OK.
    Man--I wish I had a blacksmithing vice! I've got a saw vice though. Got for only $20 at a local place that specializes in antique tools. I actually use it for doing machete modifications--about the same stock thickness!


    Baryonyx Knife Co. ~Trusted specialists in high value, low cost knives and tools.

    "To live at all is miracle enough."
    — Mervyn Peake

  17. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by FortyTwoBlades View Post
    Man--I wish I had a blacksmithing vice!
    85 pounder with 6" jaws. I picked it up at the NWBA Spring Conference last year.


  18. #58
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    Use of just the axe handle as an underbuck works OK for me. I have underbucked countless fallen trees and have never worn out an axe handle from the procedure. Missing my mark while driving wedges is what usually breaks my handles.

    If someone can educate me on how I post pictures on this forum, I'll add a few saw pics. I can't seem to locate the "picture and albums" link in my user control panel. Until then, I'll just have to insert one from the outside:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7oqRrC3HzwM

  19. #59
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    this is a good thread.
    lots of good ideas on how to make your own.
    raker gauges can be made, spiders can be made, a heavy piece of metal will work for an anvil, and a small hammer will do the job of setting the teeth

    glad these ideas are being passed on to new sawyers.

    if you google "an ax to grind" these guides are available , all good

    thanks for posting

    buzz

  20. #60
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    I upload mine to photobucket and then post them. Thats the easiest I've found.

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