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Thread: How to sharpen a Hinderer

  1. #121
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    Quote Originally Posted by RDA View Post
    Looking forward to the update, I am skeptical that your problem is isolated to those bottom hinges.
    To be honest, so am I since many people have said that their arms appear to be the same.

    I can only hope that my technique combined with the play in the arms is what causes my poor results. If not then I don't know what else to do.

  2. #122
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    My guess is it is a matter of how much "wiggle" there is. My right arm is very minor. The left arm much more and that is the side I have experienced some variance of result.

  3. #123
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    Quote Originally Posted by Birdhunter1220 View Post
    I also checked my arms and they have some play. But before this I put a angle cube on my arms and found out that the left side was about 2 degrees off from the right (20/18). I call Wicked Edge and talked to Kay. She said this was unacceptable and would get a new vice out to me right away (I just love a company that really takes pride in their product and stands behind it). Kay said .25 degree was what they looked for. She said they had some trouble with the vice and thought they had replaced all that were not up to spec. Even thought I got a good edge on the knives I have done I am looking forward to the new vice. That one call will keep me with Wicked Edge for ever! They are great people, with a great product and most of all a "We have your back" attitude. I have gotten the same with Chris Reeve and I am sure if I ever have to call Hinderer Knives I would get the same.

    I should probably get one of those, suggestions on what and where? Rather buy from a store if possible just in case something goes wrong easier to return/exchange. Does it attach magnetically to the WEPS arm?

  4. #124
    Sorry if I gave the wrong impression WE owners. I'm not questioning that it's cool (read "a great system") or that sharpening is a hobby within our hobby. My DMT stones are pricey as all get out for what the company probably puts into them too. So I agree that pricey is a relative term.

    What I think I'm left with are the 2 core questions from my original post.

    Are upgraded finer stones & strops & tapes necessary or is the basic unit all you'd need to get a solid working edge. I believe that having the perfect V at the apex is more than 1/2 the battle and the WE does that well.

    What are modded arms? Are they add-ons or modded to the ones that it comes with?

    If there's a link to the answers please provide one. I'm very interested in buying one for my birthday in the Fall. Thanks!

  5. #125
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    iGaging Angle Cubes are great for checking your angles on the WEPS and yes it attaches magnetically to the paddle. Unfortunately I don't know where to get them at a store but you can get them at Amazon. Check this video @ 1:38 to see Clay using an angle cube.

  6. #126
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    Thank you Barbarian. I will check that out.

    Cziv- IMO the WEPS basic system is all one needs and there is nothing to worry about arm wise because
    If you get one the arms will be fine. The upgraded arm is simply a mod Clay made which is very simple.
    Now, after you get the basic system you can either add to it OR mod it with add ons like wet/dry paper.
    Depends on goals after that. Working edge IMO Is basic system then some 1000/1500 wet/dry.
    Hope that answers the two questions or at least opens a dialogue about the questions.

  7. #127
    Quote Originally Posted by rubiconss View Post
    Thank you Barbarian. I will check that out.

    Cziv- IMO the WEPS basic system is all one needs and there is nothing to worry about arm wise because
    If you get one the arms will be fine. The upgraded arm is simply a mod Clay made which is very simple.
    Now, after you get the basic system you can either add to it OR mod it with add ons like wet/dry paper.
    Depends on goals after that. Working edge IMO Is basic system then some 1000/1500 wet/dry.
    Hope that answers the two questions or at least opens a dialogue about the questions.
    Thanks rubiconss. One last question. How do you put 1000/1500 wet/dry sandpaper on the paddles or do you buy these (as stones) to put on the arms? 1500 is more than enough for my needs, I stop at 1500 usually and strop. It's like an edge with invisible serrations and cuts like the devil.

    Thanks guys, time to watch their latest video releases if I haven't already.

  8. #128
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    Quote Originally Posted by rubiconss View Post
    I should probably get one of those, suggestions on what and where? Rather buy from a store if possible just in case something goes wrong easier to return/exchange. Does it attach magnetically to the WEPS arm?
    I got mine on Amazon. It was about $30. I looked local but could not fine one. The magnets work on the diamond stones.

  9. #129
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    Quote Originally Posted by cziv View Post
    Thanks rubiconss. One last question. How do you put 1000/1500 wet/dry sandpaper on the paddles or do you buy these (as stones) to put on the arms? 1500 is more than enough for my needs, I stop at 1500 usually and strop. It's like an edge with invisible serrations and cuts like the devil.

    Thanks guys, time to watch their latest video releases if I haven't already.
    Here ya go. I use the paddle as a guide and cut the strip to perfect size then use 1" blue painters tape to affix. Same tape works many many times.



  10. #130
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    Quote Originally Posted by rubiconss View Post
    Here ya go. I use the paddle as a guide and cut the strip to perfect size then use 1" blue painters tape to affix. Same tape works many many times.


    Thanks Rubi, went to a auto paint supply shop and got 1000\1500\2000\25000 sheets. They even sold them as single sheets which was nice. If there is a 12 step program for knife sharpening I need to stay away, I love this stuff.

  11. #131
    Thanks for the nice pics & instructions!

  12. #132
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    Cool Guys, Glad I could help.

    Stuff works great, I think you will like the tactile feedback the W/D paper gives you.

  13. #133
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    Another great touch up tool (and its probably free)
    - piece of dead flat stock (4"w x 12"L x 1"d) approx.
    - piece of denim
    - staple gun
    Basically your making a denim strop. The measurements are just a reference.
    Tack/staple the denim to one long side and stretch taut across the stock and fasten to other side, make sure no slack or wrinkles.
    If your stock is flat there shouldn't be any trampoline areas, fasten the ends same way trim the corners.

    You can use a stropping compound (or not) stropping motion is typical trailing edge, angle, smooth light motion.
    Denim is very effective and it is readily available as well as stable (it doesn't harden/soften etc.)

    Give it a try and see what you think.

  14. #134
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    Rubi, got to ask this. Is that your cat? And have you ever tried the lapping paper that goes down to .3 microns? I think we are all just a little nuts, but sure is fun.

  15. #135
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    Quote Originally Posted by Birdhunter1220 View Post
    Rubi, got to ask this. Is that your cat? And have you ever tried the lapping paper that goes down to .3 microns? I think we are all just a little nuts, but sure is fun.
    I have not tried those (yet) Yes, sharpening as a Hobby is definitely Fun.

    The Pic? No, that's me.

  16. #136
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    I have the 3M lapping films for my Wicked Edge but I have not used them yet because I still don't have a complete set of lapping handles thanks to Michael Poe @ Best Sharpening Stones! December 27th I ordered 2x # 4 kits and each kit is supposed to come with 2 blank handles with 4 aluminum blanks epoxied in where the stones go and 8 strips each of 9, 5, 3,1 & .3 micron. They sent me 4 empty handles with no aluminum blanks attached to stick the lapping film on. Jan 13th I contacted Mike and was told he must have shipped them before he glued in the aluminum blanks because he was so busy with the Christmas rush. He then said he will ship the aluminum blanks, epoxy and a free full package of lapping film strips for my trouble. Feb 24th I emailed Mike because nothing had arrived but this time he was not responding to my emails. Over the next several days I found numerous complaints about bestsharpeningstones.com and then I came across this which didn't put my mind at ease. http://www.bbb.org/new-jersey/busine...ce-nj-90032552 I sent him another email saying that I was going to take action if I didn't see some and by the next day I had a shipping notice. I received the package all excited and he only sent 4 aluminum blanks instead of 8 (4 paddles = 8 aluminum blanks), no epoxy and only sent 12 & 9 micron lapping film instead of the 9, 5, 3,1 & .3 micron which is useless to me. On a positive note I have used lapping films on my edgepro and they give wicked mirror finishes almost like magic! I would recommend trying the lapping films but I would not recommend buying them from Michael Poe @ Best Sharpening Stones. You can just get the film and attach it to your 1200/1600 ceramic stones or get a set of blank paddles (Not from Best Sharpening Stones!!!) and either get aluminum or in my case glass blanks and glue them in. The aluminum or glass blanks should be 3mm thick, 19mm wide & 138mm long. BTW Mike Poe you suck!
    Last edited by BARBARIAN-X; 03-20-2012 at 02:39 PM.

  17. #137
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    Sharpening is a multi-dimensional experience I gonna try the Lapping Films for no other reason than I just like their names.
    The Free Strop is cool too.
    Last edited by RubiconSS; 03-20-2012 at 07:13 PM.

  18. #138
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    Quote Originally Posted by BARBARIAN-X View Post
    I have the 3M lapping films for my Wicked Edge but I have not used them yet because I still don't have a complete set of lapping handles thanks to Michael Poe @ Best Sharpening Stones! December 27th I ordered 2x # 4 kits and each kit is supposed to come with 2 blank handles with 4 aluminum blanks epoxied in where the stones go and 8 strips each of 9, 5, 3,1 & .3 micron. They sent me 4 empty handles with no aluminum blanks attached to stick the lapping film on. Jan 13th I contacted Mike and was told he must have shipped them before he glued in the aluminum blanks because he was so busy with the Christmas rush. He then said he will ship the aluminum blanks, epoxy and a free full package of lapping film strips for my trouble. Feb 24th I emailed Mike because nothing had arrived but this time he was not responding to my emails. Over the next several days I found numerous complaints about bestsharpeningstones.com and then I came across this which didn't put my mind at ease. http://www.bbb.org/new-jersey/busine...ce-nj-90032552 I sent him another email saying that I was going to take action if I didn't see some and by the next day I had a shipping notice. I received the package all excited and he only sent 4 aluminum blanks instead of 8 (4 paddles = 8 aluminum blanks), no epoxy and only sent 12 & 9 micron lapping film instead of the 9, 5, 3,1 & .3 micron which is useless to me. On a positive note I have used lapping films on my edgepro and they give wicked mirror finishes almost like magic! I would recommend trying the lapping films but I would not recommend buying them from Michael Poe @ Best Sharpening Stones. You can just get the film and attach it to your 1200/1600 ceramic stones or get a set of blank paddles (Not from Best Sharpening Stones!!!) and either get aluminum or in my case glass blanks and glue them in. The aluminum or glass blanks should be 3mm thick, 19mm wide & 138mm long. BTW Mike Poe you suck!
    Thanks for the information.....I will be looking to get some lapping paper sounds like it does a nice job.

  19. #139
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    Quote Originally Posted by rubiconss View Post
    I have not tried those (yet) Yes, sharpening as a Hobby is definitely Fun.

    The Pic? No, that's me.
    For some reason I thought you would always have a smile on your face. Guess it was just a bad hair day, we all have them.

  20. #140
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    I have always sucked at stropping. Sometimes it gets a little sharper but most of the time there is either no difference or it ends up a little duller. I couldn't figure this out until now...I was stropping at the wrong angle! I was either too shallow and hitting the shoulder or too high and rounding off the edge which is not the same a convexing. Here is a little trick I just figured out when stropping. Before each pass set your angle shallow and push the edge forward, the opposite of the motion when stropping, and at the same time raise your angle until the edge bites the leather. Do not go passed the initial bite. Once it bites the leather preform your stropping motion while maintaining the angle of the bite. I just did this with several knives and was able to improve the edge on all of them instead of it being hit and miss. Each time I push the edge forward to find the correct angle I put a tiny slice in the leather which is the only draw back but at least I am able to consistently strop an edge.

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