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Thread: Johnsons Paste Wax or Reniassance Wax?

  1. #1
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    Johnsons Paste Wax or Reniassance Wax?


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    Which wax is better for protecting wood and steel? I have seen makers use both. I have some Johnsons wax but was wondering if there is any need to get some Reniassance wax as well. It seems like they both do the same thing.
    Thanks,
    Jason

  2. #2
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    I use Mother's carnaba,works well enough for me.
    Stan
    www.sbuzekknives.com
    Aspire to Inspire before you Expire

  3. #3
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    Never tried anything but the Ren wax, so I don't know if the other wax does the same thing. I will say this about the Ren wax. The stuff is magical; it really works. Also, if you buy some, buy the small container, cuz you only need a teeny bit and the damn container will last forever. Several knife supply dealers have told me they NEVER get repeat customers for Ren wax.


    At one point, my life was meaningless. Hobos spit on me and little children would run up and punch me in the groin.

  4. #4
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    This wax comes out on top for moisture penetration prevention. Its a quality product that I've used in the wood shop for many years.

    A one pound can is around 12.00 dollars from Amazon.com


  5. #5
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    I like the Ren wax its great stuff and that little can last forever. It seem to clean up a little better than other waxes . that said I haven't used the briwax or mothers
    steve
    [B]See Ya at The Blade Show Table 9R
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    ABS Journeyman Smith
    Member of the NC Custom Knifemakers Guild
    contact steve@ksrblades.com

  6. #6
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    Another vote for Ren Wax! Of course, this was before I knew that a little goes a long ways. I bought the big can. I suppose I'll have it for many, many years to come!!

  7. #7
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    Sun Prairie, Wisconsin (near Madison)
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    I bought Ren Wax, but before I had that I used Turtle Wax for cars. Why? Because I had it on hand and I didn't have anything else to use. If the Johnson's wax works for you then save your money.

    I wonder if there was a "wax war" to compare the various waxes?

    - Paul Meske

  8. #8
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    Nother vote for Renwax and yes the small can lasts a loong time---

  9. #9
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    I use the ren wax. Same jar for I don't know how many years now and it has just a small wallow in it where I put the rag in the jar.

  10. #10
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    Funny... Ren. wax just didn't cut it for me in the moisture resistance dept. I love it for shows and short term storage but as far as a working wax, it sucks, IMO. Plus it contaminates food. I use plain old mineral oil or raw lindseed/olive oil for field use. Maybe we aren't talking field use, though.
    "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge." - Daniel J. Boorstin



    Rick Marchand
    ABS Apprentice Smith
    www.wildertools.com
    rickmarchand@wildertools.com

  11. #11
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    This stuff is due out to the public in early 2012. I emailed them and they said that is when the expect it to become available.

    I plan on buying it as soon as it becomes available.
    Watch the videos...it is amazing.
    The link is just to the corrosion application, but you really need to watch all the videos. Let me know what you think also, I am curious if I am all excited over nothing.


    http://www.neverwet.com/anti-corrosion.php
    Matthew Bailey
    www.baileyknives.com
    "Chuck Norris cried one day when he saw how sharp Matt's knives were." Fz1boxer

  12. #12
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    Ed Caffrey uses Mothers as well, and also dislikes the results he got from Renaissance wax; this is from his Basic Damascus DVDs in the section on final prep for the bars after cleaning. He mentions also, not to use anything with silicone in it, as it can trap moisture against the steel and cause corrosion/pitting/rust etc.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick Marchand View Post
    Funny... Ren. wax just didn't cut it for me in the moisture resistance dept. I love it for shows and short term storage but as far as a working wax, it sucks, IMO. Plus it contaminates food. I use plain old mineral oil or raw lindseed/olive oil for field use. Maybe we aren't talking field use, though.
    I'll agree with Rick. From a woodworking perspective at least, wax isn't going to hold up to being handled, used, rubbed, etc. If the knife is a user of any sort something more durable than wax is in order.

    On the other hand, wax does in fact make things look good. A high carnuba content wax needs to be buffed with a power tool of some sort, hand buffing won't bring out the shine in carnuba.

  14. #14
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    I've been using Flitz Gun & Knife Wax.
    Once I tried straight beeswax and that didn't work out too well. If you can power-buff it into wood it's great, but it's not so fantastic on other materials because it stays tacky and doesn't thin out enough.

    -Daizee
    Beckerhead #int((2/3)*100)
    My knives, etc.: http://crosstownoutdoors.wordpress.com/
    "You have to admit it's a good looking heart attack." --Tradewater

  15. #15
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    Years ago Wayne Goddard did a comparison study of many waxes to protect knife blades. He ended up deciding one car wax worked best. Sorry but I don't remember which issue of Blade it was in.

  16. #16
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    I have tried Ren and several other waxes as well. I used Ren enough I went through 3 small cans. Can't say I ever really liked it but kept using it cause everyone said it was so great. Settled on Mothers carnuba car wax. Buff it off with a buffer. Better stuff and better results. Oil on the blade and wax on the handle.

  17. #17
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    wild west
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    Japanese chefs and samurai sword finishers having been using camelia oil for centuries. I compared it to mineral oil, the difference being that camelia ended up leaving a protective coating when it dried. I use one small dab to coat the whole knife... Just make sure you use food grade if yer interested in it.

  18. #18
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    Last night as an experiment - I applied a coat of burts bee's wax, then buffed it off...figuring at the very least it ought to be food safe. maybe it will cause corrosion - time will tell.

  19. #19
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    That is a great experiment! Can't wait to hear the results.

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