I have an axe head boiling right now in vinegar, because its the darnedest axe head I've seen. I cleaned it up, leaving the deep pits and soaked it in new vinegar to form that patina, using vinegar from the same company I've always used. After five days with NO results, I gave it up and boiled it for 20 minutes. Pulled it out to find what appears to be two temper lines on the bit (? Different shades of black ?), with only half a patina. Literally splotches of shiny metal right in the middle of a grey patina. Boiling the thing again after cooling it. I just don't know about this axe head. Anyone ever have this happen?
Just boiled it again, came out with a very weak full patina. What I normally get by soaking an axe head for a day. As far as the two different shades of black on the bit, I think thats just weird grinding.
Last edited by Crazyotter; 12-29-2011 at 09:22 PM.
Ya... its forces a patina on ALOT faster than soaking. Not sure about rust removal though.
Yeah, some of the knife makers step it up to boiling bleach to form spalting. Boiling bleach...sounds pretty nice, eh?
Try mustard or some other acids, I once had trouble with vinegar but mustard worked. (Weird I know since it's just white vinegar in mustard, but maybe it's another factor)
This thread needs pics!!!!
I dont get the boiling part, but oh well. You need to be careful with the vinegar. You leave something in there too long and it just kills it, in my opinion. Mustart I have used, and it is ok, should have it air tight in a bag. Its a mess.
Best thing is 3 in knotted wire brush for your angle grinder.
Last edited by trailmaker; 12-30-2011 at 03:55 PM.
Well yeah, you put a protectant on an axe head, and it probably wont get rebound rust.
Lots of replies, I'm just going to say boiling bleach sounds like a death trap. And I agree with Operator, over soaking an axe in vinegar is terrible. It leaves the metal with a dried out appearance and feel. But as far as rebound rust, I automatically oil an axe head until its saturated and almost dripping, leave it for a day, and then clean the excess oil off after any form of restoration. May be over doing the oiling, but it works and you'd be hard put to find rust on any of my axes.
Any vinegar, acid or bleach soak should be followed by a neutralizing soak such as baking soda.
Gun bluing or browning is nothing more than controlled rust.
Personally I love rust, reminds me of me.
Yes and I've also heard of using Windex (ammonia) to neutralize
ferric chloride is what you need.
When I want to derust an axe head I use electrolysis. The internet has instructions for setting it up and it will remove 100% of rust and you cannot overdo it. It reacts with just the rust and when the rust is gone the reaction stops. Any japanning is not harmed. After I clean it up I apply a coat of car wax and the axe looks great. Of course, it will not fix any pitting unfortunately. I've never tried vinegar.
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