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Thread: BD1 Steel

  1. #1

    BD1 Steel


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    I don't know much about this steel on the lightweight manix 2. What other steels can it be compared to.

  2. #2
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    Going by previous threads about it, it's supposed to be Carpenter Steel's version of Japanese GIN-1.

    Having looked at it on the Spyderco 2011 steel chart, it looks like it should perform a lot like Japanese Aus-8 or Chinese 8Cr13MoV.

    They are also considering using it in the new line of kitchen knives too.

  3. #3
    It is quite decent when it comes to edge holding, similiar to ColdSteel's Aus 8. It could be me, but i have difficulty sharpening BD1 to a razor edge.

  4. #4
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    Frozy, not just you. I was having trouble with getting it razor sharp too. The problem I had was that I was getting burrs, so someone suggested cutting into a piece of wood after sharpening to remove the burrs, and that helped a lot. Try that.

  5. #5
    Thanks for the advice, but mine's a ukpk so i won't use it on wood. And mine doesn't seem to have burr problem

  6. #6
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    Personally, I find it acts like 14c28n Sandvik, in that both seem to have very high initial edge stability, but dull more quickly than other steels once you lose that razor sharp edge. I like both for light use.

  7. #7
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    Question What would be the advantage?

    Quote Originally Posted by Frozy View Post
    It is quite decent when it comes to edge holding, similiar to ColdSteel's Aus 8. It could be me, but i have difficulty sharpening BD1 to a razor edge.
    That's interesting that you bring up that point "Frozy" because when I carried/EDCed my GIN-1 Spyderco Renegade model for almost a year at one time I noticed that as well. Now don't get me wrong because I could obtain a good toothy edge for general utility work but I couldn't get a super razor edge like I can with VG-10 or ZDP-189 for instance.

    I've yet to find a blade steel as difficult to reprofile as Crucible's older 440V (S60V) but GIN-1 was also a bit difficult to reprofile as well.

    Considering all of the newer steels out there and also considering the great dependability of VG-10 it's doubtful I would ever have any use for BD1. If it's comparable to the older GIN-1 I don't see what the advantage would be unless it's considered for Spyderco's "Byrd" line of knives.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Insipid Moniker View Post
    Personally, I find it acts like 14c28n Sandvik, in that both seem to have very high initial edge stability, but dull more quickly than other steels once you lose that razor sharp edge. I like both for light use.
    Interesting observation. I will have to keep that in mind when I get around to picking up the Manix 2 Lightweight.

  9. #9
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    http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/sh...-5-8-quot-rope

    Shows up at the bottom of Ankerson's edge-retention testing but to be honest, VG-10 and H1 are just above it and I love both of those steels for that perfect blend of decent edge-retention / ease of sharpening (I don't currently own anything in BD-1 but wouldn't hesitate to buy a Spyderco with BD-1 in the blade).
    - EZB

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frozy View Post
    It is quite decent when it comes to edge holding, similiar to ColdSteel's Aus 8. It could be me, but i have difficulty sharpening BD1 to a razor edge.
    I have the ukpk too, and I get that steel scary sharp...just be very consistent, and use the very lightest of pressure the last 10 strokes.

    I like BD-1 as a light use sort of steel. Not really liking it for something on a Manix platform, even a "lightweight" version. But on the ukpk, perfection I think.

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Frozy View Post
    Thanks for the advice, but mine's a ukpk so i won't use it on wood. And mine doesn't seem to have burr problem
    Just curious, but what about the UKPK makes you not want to use it on wood. And it's not really "using" it on wood, for what he is describing, anyways. You want to lightly run the edge through wood, not carve it away or anything. It's hard for me to explain, but Murray Carter uses that technique to sharpen, and shows it on some youtube videos. Just one or two quick passes to kill the burr, which are sometimes hard to see or feel.

    For the record I've done way more wood work with slipjoints than with locking folders.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by goodeyesniper View Post
    Just curious, but what about the UKPK makes you not want to use it on wood. And it's not really "using" it on wood, for what he is describing, anyways. You want to lightly run the edge through wood, not carve it away or anything. It's hard for me to explain, but Murray Carter uses that technique to sharpen, and shows it on some youtube videos. Just one or two quick passes to kill the burr, which are sometimes hard to see or feel.

    For the record I've done way more wood work with slipjoints than with locking folders.
    I was wondering about that statement myself. I also tend to do the majority of my woodcarving with non-locking knives.

  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by goodeyesniper View Post
    Just curious, but what about the UKPK makes you not want to use it on wood. And it's not really "using" it on wood, for what he is describing, anyways. You want to lightly run the edge through wood, not carve it away or anything. It's hard for me to explain, but Murray Carter uses that technique to sharpen, and shows it on some youtube videos. Just one or two quick passes to kill the burr, which are sometimes hard to see or feel.

    For the record I've done way more wood work with slipjoints than with locking folders.
    Sorry, I didn't mean that the ukpk is unsafe to use, it's just that I'm not used to it. I do actually use my case peanut for all wood and plastic carvings...

  14. #14
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    How does this steel perform for corrosion resistance?

  15. #15
    It should have very very good corrosion resistance

    And Frozy, I helped shakyamuni with that problem. Just cut into the wood 2-3 times and do 3 more lite strokes on your sharpening media and you should get a better edge

  16. #16
    I was amazed at how sharp my Translucent Manix 2 got in just a few quick licks on a steel. The TM2 is my favorite Spyderco. EVER.

    John

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