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Thread: strider SmF questions

  1. #1
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    strider SmF questions


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    i am new to the forums and i thought i would ask for some help. i have ben eyeing up a strider SmF for the past few months and am almost ready to drop that chunk of cash. i would love to hear about all expierance's with the knife good or bad (include pics). yes i do know a bit about mick striders past and how it has a few dark spots. i would still like to test out the knives to see what i think.

    questions :

    what spanner wrenches do you use? ( key chain tool possibly?)

    how long has it taken for you guys to devolpe lock rock or other lock up related issues?

    how does it work with gloves? ( i wear mechanix wear brand at work)

    when using gloves do you need a lanyard to take the knife out of the pocket? ( yes i know about the lanyard issues with the knife)

    and any posative or negative experiences with the pocket knife in general and the waranty service

    thanks for your time


    (remember i am new to the forums so try to take it easy on me if i broke some unspoken rule or other crap like that)

  2. #2
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    Welcome to the forums! I have an SnG but it is the same as the SMF just slightly smaller. I use a PSD products spanner tool. It has the appropriate size torx head in the middle of it to adjust/remove the body screws and pocket clip screws which is a nice feature to have. This one here: http://www.monkeyedge.com/PSD_Produc...0002-me081.htm
    Mine has not had ANY play and is still rock-solid. I have tried it with gloves and yes, it does work. Maybe not with very thick gloves but it should be fine with a pair of Mechanix. A lanyard helps extract it from your pocket but it is do-able without one while wearing a glove. I love mine and the only issue is that my blade is VERY slightly off center but it doesn't bug me or affect functionality. I say go for it and if you have any issues, Strider will correct them no questions asked even if you break it.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrOpPoInT1110 View Post
    Welcome to the forums! I have an SnG but it is the same as the SMF just slightly smaller. I use a PSD products spanner tool. It has the appropriate size torx head in the middle of it to adjust/remove the body screws and pocket clip screws which is a nice feature to have. This one here: http://www.monkeyedge.com/PSD_Produc...0002-me081.htm
    Mine has not had ANY play and is still rock-solid. I have tried it with gloves and yes, it does work. Maybe not with very thick gloves but it should be fine with a pair of Mechanix. A lanyard helps extract it from your pocket but it is do-able without one while wearing a glove. I love mine and the only issue is that my blade is VERY slightly off center but it doesn't bug me or affect functionality. I say go for it and if you have any issues, Strider will correct them no questions asked even if you break it.
    that looks like a nice tool. i remember seeing a few atwood tools that said 130 bucks and i just cant justify such a small tool with only 1 function for 130 bucks

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    Quote Originally Posted by imbryan715 View Post
    that looks like a nice tool. i remember seeing a few atwood tools that said 130 bucks and i just cant justify such a small tool with only 1 function for 130 bucks
    Yeah. I was contemplating one of the Hinderer tools but the price is really just for the "cool" factor. The PSD version is very well machined right here in the U.S.A. for $32. It is one solid piece. Not two joined. And it goes right on your keys so you always have it.

  5. #5
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    Welcome.

    From what I have read Strider do not want you to take the knife apart. So no tools except water and WD-40 should do the trick.

    Could you define lock rock, since these days there is a mis interpretation thereof between blade roll. Just want to be clear.

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    Quote Originally Posted by marthinus View Post
    Welcome.

    From what I have read Strider do not want you to take the knife apart. So no tools except water and WD-40 should do the trick.

    Could you define lock rock, since these days there is a mis interpretation thereof between blade roll. Just want to be clear.
    i want the tool to adjust th pivot so i can take out side to side play that could devolpe.

    i cant explain lock rock that well so here is a vid that i found that does a good job


    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EeubYUL49BE

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by imbryan715 View Post
    i want the tool to adjust th pivot so i can take out side to side play that could devolpe.

    i cant explain lock rock that well so here is a vid that i found that does a good job


    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EeubYUL49BE

    Someone is over thinking it.

    Wait until you get the knife and use it for awhile and see if anything develops before worrying about what may or may not happen.

  8. #8
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    It is nice to have the tool on hand though.
    I find it difficult to find the optimal pivot tension so I try not to fuss with it too much.

  9. #9
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    wrong thread
    Last edited by Reeek; 01-19-2012 at 02:07 PM.

  10. #10
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    I currently have two Strider SMF knives in my collection. One is the DGG SMF with S30V steel (full flat grind) and digicam blade, the other is a tri-brid SMF with S110V steel (3/4 grind) with a full lego G10 scale and a concealed carry titanium scale.

    I have had no lock up problems with either knife - no horiz or vert blade play. Full disclosure - I have had the DGG for about one year and the tri-brid for about 7 months.

    I do not disassemble them - as others have said - Strider frowns upon it, as many others in the past have had to send their knives back after taking them apart and incorrectly reassembling them. Some were putting the pivot back in reverse, some were screwing up the threads.

    They work just fine with gloves - thats the beauty of the double choil.

    I do not use lanyards with them - I used to have one on the DGG but I took it off one day due to boredom. Lanyards are no problem as long as you take the inner strands out of the paracord and only tie the lanyard thru the titanium scale. The knives come out of the pocket just fine without them.

    My real world feedback - if you want to do a lot of cutting then look into the full flat grind blades. The 3/4 grind blades are designed more for prying. They still cut ok just not as good as the FFG.

    I would consider concealed carry scales unless you really need to use the knife as a pry bar - they carry easier and feel better in the hand.

    Dual gunner grip scales are the stuff - the grip is crazy - but the knife will absolutely destroy your pants. I carry my DGG in a molle belt sheath when I carry it.

    The double choil is a love/hate relationship - it allows for a lot of knife control and a comfortable grip, but you do sacrifice cutting edge. If I have a LOT of cutting to do, like cardboard boxes, I will typically not reach for my Striders, but instead grab a knife that has cutting edge all the way back to the handle.

    Never had to use Strider customer service so I can't comment about that - but from my research and time spent on another forum they do appear to be readily accessible and if you follow the process it seems that most have a positive experience.

    Good luck - let us know what your experiences are once you get yours in hand and get to use it.
    Joe

    "I'm normally not a praying man, but if you're up there, please save me Superman" - Homer Simpson

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by imbryan715 View Post
    i want the tool to adjust th pivot so i can take out side to side play that could devolpe.

    i cant explain lock rock that well so here is a vid that i found that does a good job


    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EeubYUL49BE
    Thanks for the video.

    There are a few things I want to cover, based on my talking with custom makers and reading Bob Terzuola's book: The Tactical Folding Knife (hereafter BT), where he explains in detail the aspects of a good liner lock and the same principles are applied to framelocks.

    Three points of contact:
    1. Stop pin
    2. Pivot pin
    3. Interface between blade and spring (ie, lockface/lock engagement area hereafter referred to LF) Spring is also the liner lock, framelock.

    This forms a triangle.

    Now, the LF is the area lets focus on first.

    BT. refers to the angle of the lock face to be between 7.5 and 8.5 degrees. Les then 5 degrees and the spring will jam. More then 10 degrees and the spring will start slipping off the LF.

    Now the start of a radius lock face, the maximum therefore cannot exceed 10 degrees or else the lock will start slipping when the lock wears to that point. As mentioned as lock roll in the video when referring to the Strider.

    Now.

    Do not thing the angle plays the only role in the lock slipping. The finished LF can have a rough spot, not be polished enough, the spring's interface between the LF can also play a role.

    Let us examine this from the Emerson website.

    http://www.emersonknives.com/ekKnifeAnatomy.php

    If the LF connected to the spring more in the middle or at the top of the spring where the detent is on most (point nr 3 closer to the pivot pin nr 2) then you would experience blade roll. This is when you have vertical type play but what happens is the blade actually rolls on the spring because the spring connects in the wrong place with the LF.

    The picture shows the extremes of the different designs, you can have a lock that engages more then the bottom 0.90-.125" of the spring. Chris Reeve has proven this, but, you can also have a knife that engages only on that bottom 0.90" (point of contact in the picture)

    Not every lock is the same. The basic ingredients are the same, but the final application is what the maker chooses. This can be seen even with Spyderco difference between the Military and the Gayle Bradly.

    Now that is just the geometry of the lock.

    The spring itself if it is Titanium can be heat treated or carbonized. Strider and Hinderer do the latter. This helps tremendously with wear on titanium and if done right will last you a life time. CRK and a few custom makers that I have do Heat Treating of the lock. Wear is about nun and equal to (if) steel was used.

    HOWEVER. Titanium is NOT PERFECT and it can have flaws in it when received from the supplier. EVEN aerospace titanium (grade 5 titanium). These flaws only become apparent when it is used and is sometimes not even noticeable until it begins to form a problem. This is where a good warranty comes into play.

    Steel used as a liner is not always the answer as well. Different steel interfaces can result in slipping. Steel on steel requires a lot of research to find what can be used and heat treated as a spring and still provide excellent wear resistance and safety.

    Finally, lockup percentage is a strange thing and depends on the final user. I prefer later lockup as it usually means less chance of slipping off the LF.

    I hope this helped you in some way.
    Last edited by marthinus; 01-22-2012 at 09:34 AM.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by marthinus View Post
    Thanks for the video.

    There are a few things I want to cover, based on my talking with custom makers and reading Bob Terzuola's book: The Tactical Folding Knife (hereafter BT), where he explains in detail the aspects of a good liner lock and the same principles are applied to framelocks.

    Three points of contact:
    1. Stop pin
    2. Pivot pin
    3. Interface between blade and spring (ie, lockface/lock engagement area hereafter referred to LF) Spring is also the liner lock, framelock.

    This forms a triangle.

    Now, the LF is the area lets focus on first.

    BT. refers to the angle of the lock face to be between 7.5 and 8.5 degrees. Les then 5 degrees and the spring will jam. More then 10 degrees and the spring will start slipping off the LF.

    Now the start of a radius lock face, the maximum therefore cannot exceed 10 degrees or else the lock will start slipping when the lock wears to that point. As mentioned as lock roll in the video when referring to the Strider.

    Now.

    Do not thing the angle plays the only role in the lock slipping. The finished LF can have a rough spot, not be polished enough, the spring's interface between the LF can also play a role.

    Let us examine this from the Emerson website.



    If the LF connected to the spring more in the middle or at the top of the spring where the detent is on most (point nr 3 closer to the pivot pin nr 2) then you would experience blade roll. This is when you have vertical type play but what happens is the blade actually rolls on the spring because the spring connects in the wrong place with the LF.

    The picture shows the extremes of the different designs, you can have a lock that engages more then the bottom 0.90-.125" of the spring. Chris Reeve has proven this, but, you can also have a knife that engages only on that bottom 0.90" (point of contact in the picture)

    Not every lock is the same. The basic ingredients are the same, but the final application is what the maker chooses. This can be seen even with Spyderco difference between the Military and the Gayle Bradly.

    Now that is just the geometry of the lock.

    The spring itself if it is Titanium can be heat treated or carbonized. Strider and Hinderer do the latter. This helps tremendously with wear on titanium and if done right will last you a life time. CRK and a few custom makers that I have do Heat Treating of the lock. Wear is about nun and equal to (if) steel was used.

    HOWEVER. Titanium is NOT PERFECT and it can have flaws in it when received from the supplier. EVEN aerospace titanium (grade 5 titanium). These flaws only become apparent when it is used and is sometimes not even noticeable until it begins to form a problem. This is where a good warranty comes into play.

    Steel used as a liner is not always the answer as well. Different steel interfaces can result in slipping. Steel on steel requires a lot of research to find what can be used and heat treated as a spring and still provide excellent wear resistance and safety.

    Finally, lockup percentage is a strange thing and depends on the final user. I prefer later lockup as it usually means less chance of slipping off the LF.

    I hope this helped you in some way.
    wow thanks for the info. i knew the basics about this but that really helped

  13. #13
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    Glad I could help

  14. #14
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    I believe the SMF was designed to be used when wearing gloves so you should be good to go in that regard. I havent had any issues with mine in terms of lock rock or anything of that nature. The pivots are loc-tited in so you shouldnt need to adjust them (I have a Strider tool but havent used it). Its a big knife but not heavy due to the single slab of Ti. Its not the kind of knife for slicing tomatoes due to the thick blade. There's always a trade-off I guess. Its a pretty unique folder I would say. Carries great in a leather belt sheath, that's my preferred carry method. I dont have a lanyard on mine.

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    i have another question

    what does the gunner grip do to denim pockets

  16. #16
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    I don't have a GG or DGG . . . yet - but I hear they can or do shred pockets much faster than a stand scale texture. I like the looks of them and may decide my pocket is not worth "not"owning a DGG SMF - something I'll decide if an opportunity arises where I am not buying a new one.

    Quote Originally Posted by imbryan715 View Post
    i have another question

    what does the gunner grip do to denim pockets

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    Don't take this the bad way but you being new to this place and all you should be aware that there are fake exact chinese copies of the smf that are like 70$.

    Just saying keep your options open and think real hard be4 spending 500$ when a lot of other companies like spyderco have MUCH more reasonable prices and just as good materials and are made in the USA if that's a moral concern 4 you.


    plus you won't feel bad about using and messing the less expensive and extravagant knives

  18. #18
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    Whatever . . .

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by voidaq View Post
    Don't take this the bad way but you being new to this place and all you should be aware that there are fake exact chinese copies of the smf that are like 70$.

    Just saying keep your options open and think real hard be4 spending 500$ when a lot of other companies like spyderco have MUCH more reasonable prices and just as good materials and are made in the USA if that's a moral concern 4 you.


    plus you won't feel bad about using and messing the less expensive and extravagant knives
    i want a strider...... i buy top quality because im hard on my gear. you might like tools from harbor freight but i use my tools enought to justify craftsman and snap-on etc......

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by voidaq View Post
    Don't take this the bad way but you being new to this place and all you should be aware that there are fake exact chinese copies of the smf that are like 70$.

    Just saying keep your options open and think real hard be4 spending 500$ when a lot of other companies like spyderco have MUCH more reasonable prices and just as good materials and are made in the USA if that's a moral concern 4 you.


    plus you won't feel bad about using and messing the less expensive and extravagant knives
    Says the other new guy with 20 whole posts...
    There is no need to advocate counterfeiters, it serves no real purpose. I can assure you that the quality and materials are most certainly not the same. In the end your cash, do what tou have to do.

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