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Thread: Vinegar-Question

  1. #1
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    Vinegar-Question


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    I have been reading with interest about the use of vinegar when restoring axes. It seems this is a popular practice with quite a few Americans. Most of my axes are of working standard, but I have just bought a couple that I may just re-hang and have as 'relics of the past'.

    My question is...What type of vinegar, or does it matter? Malt, cider, white etc.

  2. #2
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    I've always used regular old white distilled vinegar with good results. I've heard that different vinegars will give different patinas, but I've never strayed from white vinegar.

  3. #3
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    i also just use white (its the cheapest, here anyway).
    i have heard of using ACV with good results, but i have never tried it on an axe. i have used it on knife blades though. it puts a nice bluish patina on the knives that i like sometimes...

  4. #4
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    Do you use it full strength or diluted with water? Or does that depend on how long you plan to soak it?

  5. #5
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    Full strength for me. How long to soak depends on how rust and grimy the axe is. I've actually forgotten axes in vinegar buckets for up to a week. They get really black, but I don't think it hurts them. After a while the vinegar builds up a black/brownish foam on top. That's usually when I know they're done.

  6. #6
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    yeah i use full strength as well. if their really bad, i'll soak them, sand them and wipe off the residue, then return them back into the 'bath' for another round.
    this seems to work for me really well...
    as nick said, they wil turn black if they are left in awhile, but it comes off with a little 'elbow grease'...

  7. #7
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    White vinegar for a few days. Pull em out and hit em with a scotch bright pad while rinsing them in a bucket of water - Then quickly oil em up or they will start to rust again very fast. Scotch bright may pull some of the patina off so if you want to keep it use something softer....regular scrubby.

  8. #8
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    Do you neutralize the axe after pulling it from the vinegar? Seems like residual acid might not be a good thing.

  9. #9
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    Square_peg: I rinse under water and oil once dry and that's it.

  10. #10
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    Thanks for the replies. I will be trying it soon on a 'Kelly True Temper' that I recently bought via 'Trademe'. Our equivalent of your Ebay.

    I have been watching this site for a while now and decided to join as I found the threads interesting. Also because the questions seem to be of a sensible nature and answers given with knowledge and respect with a bit of good humor as well.

    regards...Frank

  11. #11
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    forgot to say 'welcome' the other day.
    soo, welcome frank hope you enjoy things here...

  12. #12
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    Thanks for the welcome Bearhunter. Ironic it was you who did that. I was looking at a few profiles and said to my wife "this guy interests me" her reply was "yes and he lives in Montana, a state you often speak of".

    regards...Frank

  13. #13
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    Frank - Welcome.

    Vinegar is a fine route for removing rust. I did an experiment a while back between it and other liquids, and vinegar was the overall winner. I would caution you about letting it set too long - I find this can severely dull the axe head, and then you have to let it soak even longer in oil to try and bring it back, which is hard. So just note your time that you use it. Hope it works.
    Axes. Always need more.

  14. #14
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    Alexander Weygers, in his book 'The Complete Modern Blacksmith' suggests using discarded car battery acid to sharpen old files. He soaks them for 12-24 hours. He warns to rinse them for an hour or more after this to leach out the last trace of acid. Read his book for cautions and details before attempting this. But my point is that when using vinegar it might be a good idea to do a thorough rinse afterwards.

  15. #15
    I have a no name, but stamped, Hudson bay head that has paint on it. I thought about grit blasting it, then soaking it in white distilled vinegar to try and bring back the patina. Any idea as to if this would work?

  16. #16
    I think grit blasting is a common way to remove paint so it should work. Once the paint is removed, vinegar should get a patina going.

  17. #17
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    Have tried the 'Vinegar soak' and must say I am pleased with the result. Used it on a Welland Vale single bit axe. It has really exaggerated the temper line. Which I must say is well up the head. Did not have quite enough to cover the head so was watered down a bit. It has still worked well though.
    Was going to try it on a 'Kelly True Temper' but that axe still has much of the original paint so want to keep it in 'as is' original condition.

    regards...Frank

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank-New Zealand View Post
    Have tried the 'Vinegar soak' and must say I am pleased with the result. Used it on a Welland Vale single bit axe. It has really exaggerated the temper line. Which I must say is well up the head. Did not have quite enough to cover the head so was watered down a bit. It has still worked well though.
    Was going to try it on a 'Kelly True Temper' but that axe still has much of the original paint so want to keep it in 'as is' original condition.

    regards...Frank
    Good to hear Frank! Share some pics if you got 'em.

  19. #19
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    Welland Vale 001.jpg Welland Vale 002.jpg

    Nickzdon...Here are a couple of pics of my first try at the vinegar method. The axe is a 'Welland Vale' made in Canada. Not a 'Black Prince' but still a good example.

    regards...Frank
    Last edited by Frank-New Zealand; 02-14-2012 at 09:26 AM.

  20. #20
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    yep, that looks nice...!

    now a haft...

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