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Thread: Modding and Tweaking the classic Moras

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    North Jersey
    Posts
    16

    Modding and Tweaking the classic Moras


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    Hey guys,

    I just recieved my Mora #2 from Ragweed Forge today, my first Mora. I was happily surprised by the quality of this knife. The plastic sheath is a POS and won't fit any of my belts, but I plan on making my own sheath anyway. I already put it through its paces on wood and basic carpentry tasks. It cuts wood like butter. I am extremely pleased with this knife, and for $11, I'll definitely be ordering more as backups and gifts.

    BUT...

    I was wondering if anyone had some tips to 'wilderness-ize' these knives. There are some gaps where the blade goes into the handle. Any tips on how to fill these in? I'm a little worried about tang corrosion.

    Also, I have been cursed from an early age with extremely clammy hands (couldn't get many dates in highschool because holding my hand was gross). Any tips on how to make the grip more secure without wrapping it in hockey tape? People suggested sanding or torching the red paint off, but wouldn't that make the wood more vulnerable to swelling and warping? (not that it matters too much on a $10 knife handle)

    What's the best way to put a corrosion-resistance patina on the blade?

    Any other tips to strengthen or enhance the classic Moras, please post them here!!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 1999
    Location
    Over the hill
    Posts
    1,954
    A little epoxy will fill that blade/bolster gap nicely. Radial grooves can be cut in the handle with a dremel or a small round file. There are a number of ways to patina a carbon blade, and most have already been discussed here. Search the forum for "patina".
    Enjoy your Mora. Best knife for the money on the planet.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Upstate, NY
    Posts
    3,590
    A quick way to "weatherize" your Mora is to grind some paraffin or other wax into the cracks and heat it up a bit with a hairdryer or heat gun on a low setting. Repeat, melting the wax into the gaps till the wax just melts and flows around to the other side of the bolster. I use a small round file or rub some black compound into a boot lace and cut some groves into the back side of the handle. Then I can tell which way the blade is facing even in the dark, and that little bit of traction is enough to give a good grip.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    NE MT
    Posts
    74
    I filed the spine about halfway between the tip and handle to a 90 degree angle to scrape a firesteel. I also used a gun bluing pen to blue the blade.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    North Jersey
    Posts
    16
    Thanks for the replies!! Keep 'em coming, I love reading your suggestions

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Sunny Ca
    Posts
    2,603
    I recently went through a patina experiment on my Mora. Thread below.

    http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/sh...or-my-new-BK14!

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by rjc149 View Post

    I was wondering if anyone had some tips to 'wilderness-ize' these knives. There are some gaps where the blade goes into the handle. Any tips on how to fill these in? I'm a little worried about tang corrosion.

    Also, I have been cursed from an early age with extremely clammy hands (couldn't get many dates in highschool because holding my hand was gross). Any tips on how to make the grip more secure without wrapping it in hockey tape? People suggested sanding or torching the red paint off, but wouldn't that make the wood more vulnerable to swelling and warping? (not that it matters too much on a $10 knife handle)

    What's the best way to put a corrosion-resistance patina on the blade?

    Any other tips to strengthen or enhance the classic Moras, please post them here!!
    My suggestion is to go outside and use your knife. No need to strengthen or enhance it.

    Moras have been carried and used all over the world including rain forests, swamps, mountains and the Arctic for play, chores, work and survival. No need to worry about it as much as you should just use the sucker every chance you have. If your knife manages to corrode, just go buy another one. They cost $9 online.

    I've been using my Mora #1 for well over a decade and aside from some rusting under the ferrule and a general beat-in look to it, it is still hair-popping sharp and still solid in the wood handle. It is the same knife that I once stropped to shaving sharp and then used to perform a full shave -just to say I could.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    WA
    Posts
    2,117
    If you are going to use it for food prep. I think you should seal the gaps between the ferrell and the blade. I have a 2/0 that I am working on and I thinned the sides of the handle by sanding, added vertical grooves to the handle for grip, put a little stain for looks and will add some JB Weld to seal the ferrell. I'll modify the sheath and add some velcro to hold the knife in case something happens that could jar it loose. The spine is rough but it will give spark on a ferro rod. I'll carefully sand or file the back if I decide to gift it to someone. I don't think that there is anything you can do to make the knife any stronger than it already is.

  9. #9
    if you like your #2, try a #3. same great knife but with a 6 inch blade. long is better i think.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    North Jersey
    Posts
    16
    Quote Originally Posted by RogueBowie View Post
    I recently went through a patina experiment on my Mora. Thread below.

    http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/sh...or-my-new-BK14!
    Thanks for sharing!

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