First Fiddleback Forge Knife!

**J. Oeser** · 02-28-2012, 09:54 PM

I should have a Bushy on it's way to me now from Andy. So I'll have the pattern for the sheath after that.

**sisk61** · 02-29-2012, 11:09 AM

Took the Bushy out into the woods yesterday. im going to have to say that im in love with this convex edge. it battoned through trees like butter. Literally, and i put it through some decent work, and the edge was still shaving sharp, I went to lowes and all they had was 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper, so i used that, after a couple of strokes of that, i was able to get it to pop hairs off of my arm with barely any pressure at all. i just wish i had some finer grit sandpaper. I cannot say enough good things about this blade. I bought it to be my last bushcraft knife, but after having my first fiddleback, i know that i will definitely need more in the future.

**Ridge-Runner** · 02-29-2012, 12:10 PM

If ya'll got ACE hardware shops down in Alabama go there. They got sheets all the way to 3000.

**discdoggin** · 02-29-2012, 02:04 PM

Originally Posted by Ridge-Runner

If ya'll got ACE hardware shops down in Alabama go there. They got sheets all the way to 3000.

3000 grit is great if you wanna see the next dimension in your blade!!!

**Fiddleback** · 02-29-2012, 02:09 PM

Originally Posted by sisk61

Took the Bushy out into the woods yesterday. im going to have to say that im in love with this convex edge. it battoned through trees like butter. Literally, and i put it through some decent work, and the edge was still shaving sharp, I went to lowes and all they had was 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper, so i used that, after a couple of strokes of that, i was able to get it to pop hairs off of my arm with barely any pressure at all. i just wish i had some finer grit sandpaper. I cannot say enough good things about this blade. I bought it to be my last bushcraft knife, but after having my first fiddleback, i know that i will definitely need more in the future.

I never go past 600. I'm really glad you like the knife. First steel the edge, then, if necessary, strop, then if necessary sharpen. Shouldn't need it much.

**sisk61** · 02-29-2012, 02:13 PM

Sounds good, There used to be an ACE hardware down the road from my house. but they closed a while back. I gotta find out if the others are still open, so Thanks!! i didnt think about that!!

**sisk61** · 02-29-2012, 02:20 PM

Originally Posted by Fiddleback

I never go past 600. I'm really glad you like the knife. First steel the edge, then, if necessary, strop, then if necessary sharpen. Shouldn't need it much.

Thanks. The one thing im hesitant on is using a ferro rod on the spine of the blade. The spalted steel (i hope thats right) wont allow me to use the spine, up until the ground part starts, but i tried a few strikes with it and the ferro rod burred up the edge of the spine. is that normal??

**Magnaminous_G** · 02-29-2012, 03:39 PM

Ditto what others have said, and also would add that--for your safety--make sure the sheath is fitted for the knife that is inside it.

**sisk61** · 02-29-2012, 04:09 PM

Originally Posted by Magnaminous_G

Ditto what others have said, and also would add that--for your safety--make sure the sheath is fitted for the knife that is inside it.

Yeah i didnt really think about that. Thanks! I really like J. Oeser's sheaths a lot. they look incredible

**Fiddleback** · 03-01-2012, 06:50 AM

Originally Posted by sisk61

Thanks. The one thing im hesitant on is using a ferro rod on the spine of the blade. The spalted steel (i hope thats right) wont allow me to use the spine, up until the ground part starts, but i tried a few strikes with it and the ferro rod burred up the edge of the spine. is that normal??

What does 'burned up the edge' mean? Do you mean it discolored the steel at the spine?

**Kismet** · 03-01-2012, 07:56 AM

Sisk?

Use the hell out of that knife. Fiddlebacks are first "users," then "collectible."

Congratulations.

**sisk61** · 03-01-2012, 09:59 AM

Originally Posted by Fiddleback

What does 'burned up the edge' mean? Do you mean it discolored the steel at the spine?

No not burned. It just looks like the ferro rod is harder than the 01 somehow and every tome i strike it, theres a burr afterwords. sorta like if you were to hit still with a hammer. Im not sure how to explain it. Just say you took a file and used it as a ferro rod against the spine of the knife. now thats really Exaggerating, but its sorta like that.

**schmittie** · 03-01-2012, 10:09 AM

I know what you mean. My hunter does the same thing. If I scrape a firesteel, it will roll the edge of the spine slightly. My hiking buddy does not do that though. It throws amazing sparks!

**sisk61** · 03-01-2012, 11:14 AM

yeah, my bushcrafter doesnt throw sparks very well. so im just going to bring along the striker that came with an old firesteel from now on

**Fiddleback** · 03-01-2012, 02:02 PM

The spine on the knives is softened, and I round it over to debur it. Take a scotchbrite pad to it in the direction of the current scratches.

**sisk61** · 03-01-2012, 05:44 PM

Originally Posted by Fiddleback

The spine on the knives is softened, and I round it over to debur it. Take a scotchbrite pad to it in the direction of the current scratches.

Thanks! i just took the Bushy out for a few hours in the bush. this thing is insanely Incredible. I put it through some rough tasks, slapped it on the strop when i got home, and now its back to shaving sharp! Im starting to enjoy this convex edge.

**Fiddleback** · 03-01-2012, 06:08 PM

It is heads and tails my favorite. Certainly has an advantage over the rest in strength, food prep, and animal processing. Holds it's own in wood (this is the only advantage the Scandi grind has IMO). The sharpening system is the lightest, and is unbreakable. Once you nail the skill of convex sharpening it is the absolute fastest. The grind also has the benefit of resisting becoming wedged in wood when splitting.

In addition, it is very tricky to grind and by far the rarest grind at Bladeshow. I love that part too. I don't have to compete with the flat or hollow grinders.

**discdoggin** · 03-01-2012, 06:23 PM

Originally Posted by Fiddleback

I don't have to compete with the flat or hollow grinders.

Is it just me, or does anyone else find it difficult to fathom that fiddlebacks have much in the way of competition???

**sisk61** · 03-01-2012, 06:27 PM

It seems like it would be hard to grind that sabre grind. I really like the spalting you did. its extremely cool looking. I have noticed that the Koster i have does do better in fine carving, but if i put the Koster through what i put your knife through today, i would have a saw blade for an edge and i would have blisters all over my hands. The handle you made is incredible. ZERO hot spots. im really amazed with this blade. the edge retention is very very good. ive noticed that convex is great for cutting completely through wood. also, the width of the blade (edge to spine) is very useful for batonning. I also did some light chopping because i just wanted to see how the bushcrafter would do, and it did very well for the size.