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Thread: Wilderness & Survival Skills Extreme Build Off

  1. #141
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Visalia, California, United States
    Posts
    2,682

    ADVERTISEMENT
    I'm interested...

  2. #142
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Portland OR
    Posts
    57
    This is great!
    Ive designed a blade that my buddy GTH11 (Greg Haile) has almost finished building. It falls into these parameters easily. Ill be making the sheath (of course). It should be a fun team effort.
    "Go to the ant, thou sluggard; consider her ways, and be wise:
    Which having no guide, overseer, or ruler,
    Provideth her meat in the summer, and gathereth her food in the harvest."
    Proverbs 6:6-8

  3. #143
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    San Antonio, TX
    Posts
    1,435
    I'm closing in on what design I want for this. Could we get a finalized date for this? I'm getting stuff ready for Blade and need to be able to figure where to work this in. Thanks!
    James Helm - Proud to be a Neo-Tribal Metalsmith scavenging the wreckage of civilization.

    Forged blades: www.helmforge.com

    Stock removal blades: www.helmgrind.com


  4. #144
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Bothell, WA
    Posts
    1,367
    I finished up my knife for the extreme build. Who do I send it to?


  5. #145
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Lunenburg, NS, Canada
    Posts
    7,975
    Your hands are huge, bro.
    "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge." - Daniel J. Boorstin



    Rick Marchand
    ABS Apprentice Smith
    www.wildertools.com
    rickmarchand@wildertools.com

  6. #146
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Bothell, WA
    Posts
    1,367
    You know what they say. big feet means hairy palms or something like that.

  7. #147
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    OREGON/TIGARD
    Posts
    626
    Meet "SAMSON" he wants to play......like the Biblical story there is a weakness, but as in Babylon we shall seek out this weakness with delight and revel in its exposure!
    This thing is a beast: 0-1, ss damascus bolsters with 6-32 ss screws, mounted on tapped brass inserts, with milled out and accessible areas under the camo micarta scales, one bolster will be mirror polished for signaling when removed, or used as a weight on the spider wire stashed behind the scales!
    Chris Harder (Tacticalant) designed this monster im just seeing it brought to life, thanks for the oppurtunity Chris!
    GHaile

    And to think ive never been over in this neck of the woods of Bladeforums!? hmm.

    SAMSON

  8. #148
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Lunenburg, NS, Canada
    Posts
    7,975
    I knew you were going to enter that monster in the challenge..... sweet.
    "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge." - Daniel J. Boorstin



    Rick Marchand
    ABS Apprentice Smith
    www.wildertools.com
    rickmarchand@wildertools.com

  9. #149
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Ohio, NW
    Posts
    7,283
    That thing looks like a beast, man. Can't wait to see this test!

  10. #150
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    San Antonio, TX
    Posts
    1,435
    Ok, I'm still not fully decided on which route I'm going to go with this, but I have one possible route forged out.



    This has a 12" blade of 5160 steel. The raised clip will be slightly beveled into a false edge. It's soaking in vinegar right now to eat the scale off.

    I have no worries about how this blade will stand up to hard use in knife chores: chopping hardwoods for extended periods, splitting wood with a baton, slicing through whippy thorny vines and branches, etc. I'm not worried about that, though I am very curious to see where it stands in comparison with the work other makers will be producing.

    What has me scratching my head a bit is how it will do in some of the abusive tests, i.e. cutting on metal. It's a stout blade, but is it stout enough to deal with that abuse, partifularly down near the tip?

    I'm also considering something with this general blade shape:





    But with a blade around 10" or so.

    I think I will make both and continue contemplating which to enter. The other one will go on my table at Blade.

    How does one go about disabling a padlock with a knife? Striking with the spine seems logical to me; don't see many knives that can actually cut making it through with the cutting edge remotely intact.

    I really am looking forward to seeing how this whole challenge turns out. For everyone.
    James Helm - Proud to be a Neo-Tribal Metalsmith scavenging the wreckage of civilization.

    Forged blades: www.helmforge.com

    Stock removal blades: www.helmgrind.com


  11. #151
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Ca.
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    1,574
    How thick is that blade SC ?

    Even a Master or American combo lock takes a few blows from a hammer to open.

    If the lock is attached to wood ... i think I'd go at the wood before the lock.

    Saw some of your other work in the sheath forum ... very nice!

  12. #152
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    OREGON/TIGARD
    Posts
    626
    Very nice SC!!
    Heres an update on Samson, got the bolsters tapped, threaded,and mounted, both scales fitted, ive got him set up in the fixture ready to get drilled for clearence on the 6/32" screws, then ill figure my depth to set some shoulders in the micarta at, then break it all down heat treat the ss dami bolsters, heat blue the ss spacers and bolts. Chris and i havent nailed down a finish yet, ive been thinkin cerakote but we'll see?


  13. #153
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    Jun 2008
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    Ca.
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    Awesome! Great picture Greg!

  14. #154
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    Jun 2008
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    Ca.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Core Knife Co. View Post
    I finished up my knife for the extreme build. Who do I send it to?

    I'm the lucky "tiny" hands Guy .... reference to hands only!

  15. #155
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    San Antonio, TX
    Posts
    1,435
    Brian - It's around 3/16" for most of the length, and now that I've finished up stock removal, it is about 1/8" on the false edge, but 1/16" just back of the point. Of course, it is closer to the 3/16" at the ridgeline of the false edge, so not bad. I think as long as the tester is using the thick part of the spine to hammer the lock, it'd be ok; still not sure about whether to use this one or the still-unforged military-style knife for this challenge.

    I have work in the sheaths subforum? I'll have to check it out!

    My camera seems to have picked up the annoying habit of taking out-of-focus pictures when the batteries are low. So here's a blurry look at what it looked like this evening after stock removal and before heat treatment. It's in the tempering oven right now with two larger bush swords.



    I gave it my standard heat treatment for 5160: triple normalization after forging, hardened three times in canola oil, and it's now tempering three times. I think after its third cycle I'll differentially temper it with tempering tongs, softening the spine and the tip a bit for toughness. Might as well, huh?

    Greg -What are the dimensions of Samson, and is it a chisel grind?
    James Helm - Proud to be a Neo-Tribal Metalsmith scavenging the wreckage of civilization.

    Forged blades: www.helmforge.com

    Stock removal blades: www.helmgrind.com


  16. #156
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    San Antonio, TX
    Posts
    1,435
    I think I solved the nagging doubt about lock-breakability in my mind. I made another one and made it thicker.

    Here's where the original stands, post heat treat (though I haven't done the selective tempering yet; it has gone through three tempering cycles):



    And here it is with the new one, which is soaking in vinegar to eat the scale off:



    I made the oringinal's handle a bit too short to put Turk's head knots at both ends like I typically do. The second one is as long as I typically make them.

    The false edge on the first one was forged in and after cleanup was around 1/8"; the second one will be entirely stock removed and left thicker. It's currently around 1/4".

    No one else working on these? Or nobody putting up pictures yet? C'mon, we wanna see them!
    James Helm - Proud to be a Neo-Tribal Metalsmith scavenging the wreckage of civilization.

    Forged blades: www.helmforge.com

    Stock removal blades: www.helmgrind.com


  17. #157
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    NW Oregon, USA
    Posts
    6,935
    Quote Originally Posted by GTH11 View Post
    to think ive never been over in this neck of the woods of Bladeforums!? hmm.
    Welcome! My girlfriend lives just down the road from you. I spend a lot of time in the Tigard area.

  18. #158
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    OREGON/TIGARD
    Posts
    626
    SC, its 1/4" 0-1
    14 5/8" OAL
    Its a long hollow that leads to chisel grind at the tip.

    Shotgun, gimme a ring sometime!

  19. #159
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Lunenburg, NS, Canada
    Posts
    7,975
    I just forged out my entry, today. 15" or so overall, L-6..... No pics until it is all submitted.

    It is being spheroidized as I type this. This is my first time with L-6... I hope I can pull off the heat treat.
    "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge." - Daniel J. Boorstin



    Rick Marchand
    ABS Apprentice Smith
    www.wildertools.com
    rickmarchand@wildertools.com

  20. #160
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Bothell, WA
    Posts
    1,367
    I totally screwed mine up. I tried to go way outside my comfort zone and do something I have never done. Well I was successful! Before now I have never taken a 1/4" piece of O1 and thrown it in the trash.

    I'll try and get some more here ASAP.

    I need a hug.

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