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Thread: Curved Clips: Cut on the wheel or the platen?

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by NickWheeler View Post
    Josh- Thanks for taking that the way you did. You always inspire me with your open minded and "defenseless" approach. I always have it in mind that even someone who knows nothing about knives could, even accidentally, give me a great idea.... but I definitely need to work on the part about not being offended by some other makers' comments.

    I don't draw file my clips because I like to do them post hardending, and can typically start sanding them with a fairly fine sand paper. BUT, there are times when one just doesn't want to cooperate, and when that happen I use a draw filing motion--- but with a piece of steel that I slap PSA paper onto and cut trim the paper so it's flush to the edges of the bar. I use a 1" wide bar for straight clips, and a little 5/16" wide bar for curved clips.


    On a side note, oftentimes many of the issues a fella is having getting his clip grinds even are stemmed from his blade not being straight, evenly tapered, and with a centered edge.

    It all goes back to my Dad's house framing days mantra- "Start square, stay square."
    There's no other way to end up with a square building or square knife, for that matter. Good advise!

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by NickWheeler View Post
    My radiused platen idea came directly from my friend Mike Vagnino. It's just a piece of some 5/16 or 3/8 tool steel (I think I used O1, it was whatever was in my "too short for a knife, but too good to scrap" tool steel bin at the time ). Drilled and tapped it to bolt up to the KMG flat platen tool arm. I'd guess the radius is equivalent to a about a 6" to 7" wheel (keep in mind, the radius is oriented so that it's round from side to side, not top to bottom).
    Nick, I've read this three times and I can't picture what you're describing. Do you mean a 3/8" round bar, or a 3/8" plate that's radiused to 6 - 7"??

    Edit: NM, I figured it out: 3/8" plate, radiused 6 -7" across it's width. You bolt it on and use a J-Flex belt, right?
    Last edited by lazlo; 04-04-2012 at 01:37 PM.

  3. #23
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    How do you make the radius on that? Eyeball it on the grinder?
    Patrice Lemée



  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Patrice Lemée View Post
    How do you make the radius on that? Eyeball it on the grinder?
    I was wondering that too!

    Either take a slice out of a 7" diameter cylinder, eyeball it, or get Nate to make a platen radius'd in the other axis

  5. #25
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    Nathan would clearly be the most precise source.

    I made a redneck radius gage and used it to check the platen while grinding it on the belt grinder. I did a little truing up by draw filing. There are several things you could do that would involve more precision... but mine is smooth and consistant, which is what matters.

    BTW- I had forgotten that I made it more like a 10" wheel, not 6"

    (and yes, my grinder bench is really that dirty! )

    DSCN4080.jpg DSCN4081.jpg
    Last edited by NickWheeler; 04-12-2012 at 05:29 PM.
    -Nick-



    This link will take you to the tag-along thread where I made the damascus camp knife (above) from START to FINISH...


    http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/sh...metal-with-you

  6. #26
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    Thanks Nick, I really appreciate you taking time to take pics and describe your process. Invaluable for slow folks like me.

    I must say I am a little surprised though. With how ana...errr I mean perfectionist you are with everything in your shop (it's a compliment believe me, I am the same if just not as good), I thought dust extraction would also be top of the line.

    Nathan would of course make a perfect platen but he is pretty busy as it is.
    Patrice Lemée



  7. #27
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    Nick,
    Like Patrice, I also really appreciate it when you -- or any of the other makers that I really respect -- take the time to post photos of their specialty tools and equipment. It is helpful to read a description; but, for me, there's nothing like a photo.
    Thanks.
    Erin
    What is it that makes a complete stranger dive into an icy river to save
    a solid gold baby? Maybe we'll never know.
    -Jack Handy

    See my KNIVES FOR SALE in the KNIFEMAKER'S MARKET.
    See my Flickr Gallery of Completed Knives HERE.

  8. #28
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    You bet guys.

    Patrice- I would like to get some type of dust extraction set up when I get the new shop set up properly, but the grinders are in a temporary setting right now.

    I think I want to just get a blower to extract everything through some ductwork and blow it out of the shop. But I've also been keeping an eye out for a Torrit dust collector. They had them in the fab shops at the mill, and they really worked great... but they should considering those units are about $5k!

    I also get a bit hung up on the fact that most photos I've seen of knife shops with dust collectors--- look to have a lot of dust all around the grinding area anyway. My grinding bench is normally pretty clean even without a collector of any sort, but my shop-vac seems to have been relocated to other areas for puppy cleaning, LOL.





    BTW- The nice thing about a clip grinding platen like this, FOR ME, is that you can do a curved turn out, even with a straight clip profile. Like this one. Of course there's some geometry going on with the curve of the "harpoon tip/raised clip" and the distal taper in the blade... but no matter, it would be 100 times harder to grind a clip like this with a flat platen.
    cf4.jpg

    Not to overplaster this photo on the forums, but Buddy's pro photo shows what I mean a lot more clearly.

    -Nick-



    This link will take you to the tag-along thread where I made the damascus camp knife (above) from START to FINISH...


    http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/sh...metal-with-you

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by NickWheeler View Post
    ...most photos I've seen of knife shops with dust collectors--- look to have a lot of dust all around the grinding area anyway.
    I think that this has mostly to do with the fact that people don't seem to put a lot of effort in the collector part. Sometimes you just see an open duct in the general area. Of course there is a limit to what you can do and not get too much in the way of the work. But still I am sure we could do a lot better. That's why I can't wait for your ingenious mind to start working on this.

    And blowing outside if possible is much easier or in the case of the Torrit, much cheaper too.
    Patrice Lemée



  10. #30
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    Did like Nick suggested. Still need a little polishing but it's roughly a 10" diameter. 2 alignment pins and one small rare earth magnet pressed in. Now I need to fab a angled toolrest for good measure.






    I can't wait to try it.
    Patrice Lemée



  11. #31
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    Where we are at for now:

    Patrice Lemée



  12. #32
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    Grand Rapids, MI
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    I do curved clips on a 4" contact wheel on a Rockwell 1X42 grinder. I use a lot of water. I notched out the base plate so I can move the blade downward with the tip leading.

  13. #33
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    It seems most of you guys are afraid of using a contact wheel! Contact wheels are your friend.
    I grind clips vertically and generally grind swedges the same way, unless there needs to be a defined start on the swedge.

  14. #34
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    Off topic.
    Josh that is the coolest hamon line I have ever seen. Looks like flames on a classic car

  15. #35
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    I'm not afraid of contact wheels. When I find a better, more consistant way to do something I stick with it.
    -Nick-



    This link will take you to the tag-along thread where I made the damascus camp knife (above) from START to FINISH...


    http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/sh...metal-with-you

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