I've been actively lurking around here/BF+FF+KFF+FoodieF for the last 6 months - read and learned alot on blades&tools from many contributors. My appreciation to all!

Sharp journey: 2006, started with EP + Kitayama8k. 2007, slightly messed-up edges of my 3 jknives. 2009 became discouraged after s30v & zdp. 8 months ago, I need to teach my cousins outside of U.S. learn how to sharpen knives/tools to make a living. 2011-2012 gears: DMT xc-ef, 1k/4k combo & 12k stone, spyderco ceramic med-ef, cbn 0.5-3.0u, md 0.1-12.0u, pd: 0.1-1.0u, crox 0.5u and leather+balsa strops. lol - hopefully this endeavsor turn out better than blind lead blinds.

Thoughts? Edge burr/wire/hinge is a PITA to remove depend on steel. However does micro-hinge (a burr/wire metal hinge width is less than a carbide width) need to be remove for high hrc+toughness alloy? Since most effective burr removal for me was edge leading into the stone. I found stropping or slice felt/softwood would remove burr but at the cost of some carbides pull-out. So, leaving micro-hinge alone and let the cutting be the burr removal, essentially the blade is actually getting sharper with use. I envisions cutting would fold the burr onto the edge, eventually abrade the burr without tear/pull carbides way from the edge.

I test sharpened knives(skd, white carbon, moly san mai, s30v, d2, m4, vg-10, 1095,zdp-189). Set the bevel as good as I can at sub 1k deburr progress through 12K, then I heavy pressure stropped to produce micro-hinge (thus obtuse the edge angle a little bit). For vg-10 initialy won't push cut newspaper but seem push ok after slicing ~20 pages. Diamonds & CBN worked well but CrO abraded too much of the matrix especially for high MOHS Vanadium & Tungsten carbides steel. Please sharpen my synapses?