Originally Posted by Maprik
By no means am I an expert in this area but I'll share my experience and limited knowledge. The first time you're "shaping" (yes, that's shape not sharp) the edge, you want to set aside an hour or more of undisturbed time. My experience has taught me it's very difficult to find and follow the factory angle so It's best to make your own. This way, you'll be able to touch up the edge super quick when it needs sharpening. And, many factory edges aren't even on both sides, the edge grind is more like a chisel than a V. However, CRK knives are often ground very even on the edge. It's the BM's that I find have more of a chisel edge.
The "secret" is to GET A BURR on your edge (temporarily). This means to cut away enough that one side folds over the other. Before I do that, I make sure I've removed an equal amount of metal from both sides so that the edge of the V sits directly in the middle. I verify this under a 10 power loop. Once that's done, work one side until the edge folds over and you feel a lip when dragging your nail backwards against it. Then cut the burred side until it just starts to do the same on the other. From that, start working finer grit stones 6-8 times a side until your final stone. Make sure each time you're finished a side, the other side DOESN'T have a burr. After the final stone cut, I use 3 different types of compounds on a leather strop. Get yourself a 4 sided block with leather attached. I have all flesh side visible on all sides of my leather strop, but some like one finished side of leather to use as the final strop. It's a matter of preference. Each sides gets a different compound and the last piece of leather is left dry. I use that to clean the blade.
I tried to simplify it the best I can but if you have questions about the process, please ask. If others have better success sharpening another way and would like to ad, that would be great... Even though it sounds like a lot of metal moving, it isn't. I'm moving a little metal off the sides and very little off the edge. Move as little of the edge as possible. The further the edge is pulled into the grind, the better off you are. As the edge falls back into the grind, the V angle is greater and the more pressure you'll need to apply to your cut. I get a lot out of a little. There is an argument of hollow grind vs flat grind and what cuts better. That's an entirely different conversation and best discussed elsewhere. This being said, I prefer the hollow grind of CRK because it suits my needs in a knife, and it'll take more sharpening before a back angle is required. I use to use a Sharpie marker to determine how much metal I've actual moved off the factory edge. I can assure you it was VERY little. Once you've established your own angle and edge, it takes VERY little work to touch it up. Most of the time I can do it with the last stone and a few stroke on the strop.
I will say the edges of my knives scare the hair off my arm, hold an edge and look pretty. It's like carrying a straight razor in my pocket that works like an ax when needed. In the photos below, the band of edge might appear large in the photos, but it isn't. It's not much wider than the factory, but it is even and looks beautiful. The blade on this Sebenza is S35VN. I can't say what's easier for me to sharpen, 30 or 35. If I recall, the 30 was actually harder to shape than the 35. I do know so far, the 30 holds an edge longer but will chip easier. The 35 will fold before it chips. At least that's what I've experienced to date.
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Last edited by Big_E; 05-31-2012 at 02:17 PM.
WTB Mammoth Ivory (white or barely off white)...no spots of any kind, S30V blade.....with new or old style pin, or Damascus.