I think B is the best design out of those 3, but if I was going to survive I'd want a bigger knife.
Overall lenth 10"
Thickness 3,5mm
Steel AEB-L
Feel free to leave any kind of feedback not just limited to the but.
Last edited by peppen108; 09-01-2012 at 01:15 PM.
I think B is the best design out of those 3, but if I was going to survive I'd want a bigger knife.
Yes I´m a bit limited by the thickness of the stock I can get a hold of right now. This knife will have to be the companion of a foldable saw.
I like "A".
At one point, my life was meaningless. Hobos spit on me and little children would run up and punch me in the groin.
Your design is great!! Though, I personally prefer wider blades. Out of the three, I like "A" the best.
The guard is far too large in all three drawings. It doesn't need to be that obtrusive to keep your hand from slipping onto the edge, and will be in the way during fine cutting tasks.
I disagree about the guard being to large, BUT, I think that it can be thinned out a bit and "sculpted". James, if you don't like guard that size, you are going to HATE the prototypes that i am working on now.![]()
Joe Mandt
St Petersburg, FL
ABS Apprentice Smith and Honorary Eurotrash
www.JMForge.com
Blade Show Table 21N
Great feedback! I have made some what of a bastard. I am not shore about it, some thing is of and it needs trimming.
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IMO c. is the best, the flat pommel will double up for hammering assuming full tang.
Much like a Fallkniven A1.
---------------------------------Wanted--------------------
- BUSSE NMFSH / FBM
- Hinderer XM 18 3.5 Custom and Production Spanto
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
I am still thinking about the tang. Since its hard scales the tang has to protrude quite a bit if it´s to be used for hammering.
This is a concept for a protruding tang I have been thinking about.
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As a "Survival knife" keep in mind that the top design is going to have a big stress riser at the 90* angle of the guard and that is where you blade is going to break if to much stress is applied there.
The bottom design has much less chance of breaking in a hard use situation although I would deepen the finger groove up front a bit more.
B3... looks like a longer, thinner non-ramped BRKT Bravo 1. What kind of grind are you going to put on it?
Wannabe Rookie Bladesmith
Thanks for charing that insight AVigil.
@Hawk45. The only grind I can kind of do is a flat grind. I´m thinking about 20 degrees. Then maybe an convex micro bevel.
Those profiles remind me of an SRK, which my wilderness skills mentor thinks is an excellent design. Make some prototypes out of wood and play around with the feel. The perfect survival knife is a myth. I've come full circle several times and have accepted that the user plays a bigger role than the blade. Make what YOU want to make and ask for ideas when you hit roadblocks.
Rick
Rick Marchand
ABS Apprentice Smith
www.wildertools.com
rickmarchand@wildertools.com
***Available Knives***
BLADE SHOW 2013. Come see me at table 19-O
Oki! Thanks guys. This will be the last sketch on this knife.
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I urge you to make some wooden prototypes. I personally think you will have problems with the integral guard of that last drawing. The palm swell will bring your hand forward and that edge will be a very sharp reminder.
Rick Marchand
ABS Apprentice Smith
www.wildertools.com
rickmarchand@wildertools.com
***Available Knives***
BLADE SHOW 2013. Come see me at table 19-O
Ok, I will.
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Last edited by peppen108; 06-04-2012 at 04:45 AM.
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