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Thread: Leather Stamping

  1. #1

    Leather Stamping

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    I stamped my first basket weave sheath and could see some room for improvement. I believe the main problem was caused by the leather not having the proper level of moisture. To start I used a sponge to wet the working area. Then I let it dry to almost the natural color. It only took a few minutes to get to this point. As I was stamping the leather dried out quickly and began to leave a very light imprint from the stamp so I would re-wet with the sponge. This created a deeper impression on the area from the added moisture. The leather really soaked up the water so I am thinking I should initially get the leather much wetter and give it longer to dry so the water is evenly disbursed through the leather. Does anyone have any tips they are willing to share on this? All advice is greatly appreciated.

  2. #2
    Sorry about the phone picture, I grabbed it on my way out this morning. I thought it would help anyone who will give pointers.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    On the Ohio/Michigan line.
    Dan, it's called "casing"...soak the leather then let it set in a plastic bag over-night. This will allow the water to penetrate through the leather so it can dry out evenly.
    I don't do this casing unless I'm working on a pretty large item.
    For sheaths and holsters and belts, I wet it good, allow to dry some then keep spraying water on the item, as I stamp....just like you did. I guess you develop an eye or feel to know when the leather is just right to stamp.

    There's always room for improvement on your first sheath, but yours looks pretty good to me. Your second will look better.

  4. #4
    I might try the soaking and letting sit in a plastic bag just to see the difference. Do you still use a sponge to apply the water or do you actually dip it? The tri-weave design has really caught my eye for my next attempt, but I have read that the cheap Tandy stamps just don't look right. Any thoughts on that? Thanks for the tips.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    On the Ohio/Michigan line.
    How I wet it depends on the size of the leather and what I'll be doing to it....a sheath such as the one you show probably takes me 20-30 minutes to stamp, so I don't believe "casing" is necessary. I use a spray bottle to get the surface evenly wet, leave it alone for half hour, and it's usually good to stamp. I may run a wet towel across it periodically when I feel the stamp needs it.
    I don't claim to be the best stamper in the world, or on my block for that matter.....this is just how I do it.

    I have nothing negative to say about Tandy'll be working on your second sheath, so I would venture to say that the most expensive tri-weave stamp in the world isn't going to "look right" when you're done. Tri-weave can be tricky...if you stamp too hard it will stretch out the leather and the stamp won't fit into the slots like it is supposed'll see.
    Tandy's in my opinion the best place to start for any tool....when you're far enough along to see/feel/do the difference between them and Barry King tools, then it's time to upgrade.

  6. #6
    Thanks for the info.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    I find these geometric pattern stamps a little lacking in visual indexing. I have marked lines on the backs of some so I know how the pattern is situated. Getting a feel for where the pattern is on you stamp will also help.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2001
    After casing avoid re-moisturizing the leather. It will "fade" the previously made pattern. If you are doing a geometrical pattern, like a basket-weave, make a few lines in the leather before you start.


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