I would try a diluted Ferric Chloride mix like that used to etch Damascus. I have not tried it, but it seems like it would fit the bill. Here is an example:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/sh...-forced-patina
post 18.
Hey Guys, i'm looking for some advice on blackening or darkening a blade 1084 steel, i have tried hot vinegar but i didn't really like how it looked, ive also tried forcing patinas and i'm not looking for that look either. The look i would like to get is pretty dark black and a matte finish, would this be accomplished with an acid of some sort? if anyone can help here id greatly appreciate it!
I have looked around the forums but haven't really found a how-to on what i want, and i don't want to paint or any coating. some examples are below.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/sh...with-cord-wrap
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/sh...-swedge-!!SOLD!!
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/sh...old-Out-Thanks!
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Nearly every man who develops an idea works it up to the point where it looks impossible, and then he gets discouraged. That's not the place to become discouraged. - Thomas Edison
I would try a diluted Ferric Chloride mix like that used to etch Damascus. I have not tried it, but it seems like it would fit the bill. Here is an example:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/sh...-forced-patina
post 18.
The biggest drawback to trying to use an acid solution to darken the steel is knowing how long to leave it in so that you don't actually etch the blade. I would look at a gun bluing kit. I didn't go through all the pictures, but that first knife stated that it was blued. You can pick up the solution at a local sporting goods store and it is pretty inexpensive. To do it right, you will need to heat the blade and then bake the finish, but this can be acheived in your garage if you have an old toaster that will reach the mfg's recommended temp. Would be interested to see a picture if you decide to go this route. Good luck!
DD
Here's some quick answers for you to do more research on.
In this example
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/sh...with-cord-wrap
(gun blue from birchwood casey)
They have told you how
http://sport.birchwoodcasey.com/Finishing.aspx
I'd call this a vinegar or acid patina
Goggle search a cold blue bleach patina for that sort of thing.
This one, I'd look into a stone wash tumbled finish and then acid patina.
Of course those makers spend time here so you may get the answers direct from the horses mouth
If it is Aldo's 1084 you can experiment with ferric chloride etch which will give a black oxide that rubs off, you then set the oxide by boiling the knife in a baking soda/water solution makes a nice velvet black
-Page
Without craftsmanship there is no art, only a sad suggestion of what might have been.
www.sunshadowdesign.com
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Nearly every man who develops an idea works it up to the point where it looks impossible, and then he gets discouraged. That's not the place to become discouraged. - Thomas Edison
Well the wharny with orange and black scales is mine.
For A-2,1095 and O-1 I don't use vinegar or Ferric. I use a non toxic bio degradable product called Evap-o-rust. You can but it at tractor supply.
I poor it directly into my Harbor freight 20# tumbler with the blade and run it for about 20 min. It get's pretty dark.
For cpm-3v D-2 and stainless I soak in Ferric to the desired color Spray with windex(ammonia) to stop the etch, clean with bore cleaner, and then to the tumbler.
Feel free to call me if you have questions.
731-514-8731
WWW.JBSKNIVES.COM
Blade Show table 22F
I think the ferric is 50/50 but that was a couple of years ago and I'm old. I have been using the same ferric for a couple of years so I honestly don't remember the dilution, I think I started straight up and then went 50/50, other dilutions involve measuring and I don't have a graduated cylinder set aside for ferric.
The baking soda solution is even more vague, I have an old cast iron frying pan that I fill most of the way with water, pour in a good healthy pile of baking soda (maybe 1/8-1/4 box) put the blade in on a 1/8 inch stainless steel weld wire grid to keep it off teh bottom and boil for 20 minutes
-Page
Without craftsmanship there is no art, only a sad suggestion of what might have been.
www.sunshadowdesign.com
Ferric Chloride:
The standard answer is, go to Radio Shack, get a pint or a quart (it's used in assembling electric devices), and use it as is.
Works great- you can go from there and come up with your custom dilution.
Andy G.
Edit: Looking at past threads brings up a question- are the selenium solutions safe for a tool (think Kitchen Knife) that gets used with food?
Last edited by elementfe; 07-03-2012 at 12:35 PM. Reason: question
Another thing that will give a more "matte" finish is if the steel has a matte finish before you start with the treatment. So if you get the colour, but its not matte enough you can do this as a pre-treatment.
For example beadblasting. However etching can also give that too, so its worth trying it without the beadblast as that save an extra step if you're happy with the results.
I like using knives.![]()
Looking for: Custom scales for Benchamde 710,
I stabbed a lemon over and over again to get mine. It gets dark.
Nothin like a lemon. the lemon can aide you in yor endevour. Really???-Mark.lol
Also, make sure that you clean the blade thoroughly before etching..........and then clean it one more time before etching.Stuff like the oil from your fingers or anything left over from something that you did to the blade can act as a resist of sorts and give you and uneven finish just like when you blue.
Joe Mandt
St Petersburg, FL
ABS Apprentice Smith and Honorary Eurotrash
www.JMForge.com
Blade Show Table 21N
What do you recommend using to clean the blade before etching? I've used brake cleaner to degrease/de-oil gun parts, but will it work for this? Acetone? Rubbing alcohol? Anything else?
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