I was not happy with the last blade attempt. It did not have a visible heat treatment pattern, which must mean I have some kind of contaminant in the wrought iron I used to mix with the modern steels. This one had 440 layers of wrought iron, w2, and 1075 from Aldo, with a w2 core in a sanmei. I just didn't like the fullering I had done. The lack of a shuangxue (Chinese for hamon) was also a big blow. It would have been a good blade if I had just left the planes flat and not goofed it with the sloppy fullers.
I did not like the fullering once I cut them in, and my attempts to fix them only made them a LOT worse.
So, with this one, I have gone with a known favorite steel - Aldo's low manganese 1075. This stuff is wonderful for swords because of its shock resistance, and it makes beautiful shuangxue (heat treament patterns).
I very carefully straightened a piece of stock on the mill to use as a guide for cutting the fullers. I ground them in with 1/8" disc on angle grinder and a cutting disc on the angle grinder. I straightened the guide stock after each fuller, since it got ground a bit, too.
I have figured out that the reason the fullers were so sloppy last time had to do with the way the 1/4" wheel I used to cut them wore down. It starts with 90 degree angles and flat edges. After some use, it turns into an appleseed shape on the edge. This leads to a sloppy looking fuller with lots of facets. I can usually clean these up by breaking off part of a chainsaw file and then bending the tang end and using that short tool to file/scrape inside the fuller. But, the ends of these were too bad. I ruined them trying to carve little triangular designs in the end (which is a common thing on Chinese and Japanese swords).
I still have to grind the false edge in, and also do all of the grinding to put the convexity into the edge. It is just out of heat treatment here.
I did take the tip down just a hair after these pics, to make sure it would function properly in straight sword techniques. That is the idea behind the goose quill design, it combines the benefits of curved and straight swords.
comments are welcomed. Thanks for looking. I would appreciate any advice given by those who know more about making swords.