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Thread: What impresses you in a knife?

  1. #21
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    My reflection



    Just jokes

    Seriously though, this:

    Quote Originally Posted by Ankerson View Post
    1) Performance.

    2) Not over designed for the task, I really hate over designed knives.

    3) F&F is good for the price range.

    4) Materials depending on the tasks the knife would be for.
    Just an average guy, learning something new all the time....

    My real name is Ken...but my friends don't call me.


  2. #22
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    I want to be able to grip it hard, use it and not get a cramp or hotspot.

    I want it to be durable enough that above said use does not loosen up the blade, lock or anything else.

    I'd prefer the clip point steel blade to be run on the hot side for that steel, with the heat treat and temper designed around performance, wear resistance and not corrosion resistance.

    I would love to have a full size tough lockback in O-1( rc 61), W2( rc 61-62), 52100( rc 62), cruwear ( rc 62-63), 3V ( rc 60), or 10V/A11 class ( rc 63.5-64.5)

    I would love a nice, subdued, plain wood ( oak or black walnut) grip and german silver bolsters. Blade length 3.75 to 4.00 inches.

    Once again, lockback must be sturdy enough to last a lifetime with care. The geometry is for cutting & slicing, not prying. Sharp with thin behind the edge is very good. Lanyard hole is nice but I can do without if needed. Matching leather belt pouch would be nice. Liners could be stainless, as well as spring.



    stainless steel blades need not apply. I'd get a special one of those to my design later using S110V at rc 63.5.
    Last edited by The Mastiff; 07-24-2012 at 11:00 AM.

  3. #23
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    On a folder I've come to appreciate F&F as well as ergonomics I'm not too terribly hard on blade steel (it is important however) if it's a folder just give me something with at the least decent edge retention and IMO the weak links on a lot of folders is the fit and finish IMO on fixed blades it's really more about the blade profile and blade steel as well as the sheath construction (which can be cured with an aftermarket sheath).

  4. #24
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    The grind ! No sharp corners on the handle
    Please visit my website:
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  5. #25
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    smooth deployment, regardless of deployment speed, and a tight lockup. my spyderco chokwe (which i didn't like at first) is a good example of that.

    otherwise its warranty. I bought my ESEE junglas almost exclusively for its impressive warranty. its also why I ever return to buck (despite not being crazy about their designs) and why kershaw is one of my fave brands especially when we're talking value. strangely I've never even used my warranty on a knife but I have on other things and its always such a great feeling when a company stands behind their product.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by marcinek View Post
    I'm always impressed when a knife designer/maker has put thought into making an effective cutting tool. That thought is becoming rarer and rarer it seems.
    +1 well said

  7. #27
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    ZERO bladeplay
    Decent centering (almost always off a bit anyways)
    No gaps
    smooth opening
    good detent

  8. #28
    here are my top 5 things in order of importance.

    1. lock up - a folder has to have rock solid lock up, of course most good knifes all do these days, but any blade play its its gone.
    2. Ergonomics - the knife has to feel good in the hand, I had some good looking knifes I paid close to $150.00 for and just found the Ergos weren't there so I got rid of them.
    3. Pocketability - how well the knife rides in the pocket (thin/light), I have a larger folder which I love but rearly carry it because of this.
    4. Edge Retention (steel type). - I love higher end steel, S30V, D2, M4, XHP, M390 (most of all)
    5. The "it" factor - its hard to define this one but a knife just either has it or it doesn't, this one is really in the eye of the beholder but a cool knife just has that "sexiness" (if you will) to make you want to own it and admire it.

    6. Deployment - I love a Knife that you can flick open and hear that "Thwack" (had to add this to the list but cant put it above any of the others)
    Last edited by ericvar101; 07-25-2012 at 11:32 AM.

  9. #29
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    When I hold it in my hand and feel the sudden urge to stand up and shout in a crappy Australian accent "NOW THAT'S A KNOIFE!!!!"

  10. #30
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    The knives that really speak to me have a great blade design. That's the first thing that catches my eye. Who looks at the handle first and ignores the blade? Certainly the handle is the second most important issue. Steel seems to be third place for me. I have inexpensive and expensive (to me, which is just under 300 dollars) knives, so it's not like I think that this will be my only knife, ever. I can buy an inexpensive knife and love it (almost) the same as an expensive knife. But if I forked out 150-300 dollars for a knife, and it had fit and finish issues, I would be mad.
    If I have a knife that just sits there and gets no pocket time anymore, or a fixed blade that doesn't go camping anymore, Im cool with it, coz somewhere down the line I can gift the knife or hand em down to the kids.
    Great Thread, HH
    John
    I think our (BF) standards are rediculously high here, and that's fine. I also presume that our discussions here have made knifemakers big and small take note and step up their game to making better knives: better steels, better materials, better fit and finish.

  11. #31
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    I look for knives that perform their designated task well.

    If a knife is meant to be a thin slicer does it slice? (Primary and edge geometry are very important).

    If a knife is meant to be a "fighter" does it have good piercing? Balance? Good edge? How does it feel in the hand. Distal taper to the blade? Tang? How does the handle feel in my hand? does it feel like I am holding a handful of broken glass and teeth? Too slick?

    For a chopper, does it chop well? Is the edge geometry and primary grind done well to allow it to bite deep? Robust enough for velocity impacts? How does the handle feel in the hand. Hot spots? Does it chop naturally, or feel like I am swinging a petrified dino turd?

    The older I get, the less I need 1/4 inch EDC's.

    I think the design (well thought out) is tantamount. I will take a well designed knife in any 10XX steel over a poorly ground, non performing super steel.

    If it has a great grind and edge for the purpose, and happens to be in a super steel, even better.


    I like slip joints that have tight clean fit of all the parts. Thin blades for slicing. Sharp edges.

    Locking folders? Still need to be great slicers. Well fit locking mechanism and parts.

    Fixed blade EDC's still need to be good cutters (for me). Medium blades, be decently strong for makeshift chopping and cutting.

    Big choppers have to be good at removing wood chips fast, comfortable, and resilient.

  12. #32
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    In this order

    1.) Functionality. This can be broken down further to:
    A.) Versatility- The ability to adequately accomplish a variety of different tasks.
    B.) Specialization- The ability to do one task exceptionally well.
    2.) Durability
    3.) Uniqueness
    4.) Value
    5.) Aesthetics
    "Remember, there's a big difference between kneeling down and bending over."
    - Frank Zappa

  13. #33
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    Agreed on that Sir!......this old laminated MORA cost me $12 NZ ,....by far the most IMPRESSIVE i own IMO..... FES




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