Newbie Chopper Design Feedback

[Ironwood666]

So, I was using a friend's Tom Brown tracker knife the other day, and very much liked some of the features such as the quarter-rounder. However, the knife seemed like a poorly designed fighter rather than a chopper because of the up-swept slashing point (see fig 1). I decided I wanted to design my own interpretation, so here its is (fig 2). I'm an inexperienced knife maker and designer, and I'm not ready to take on the project yet, but I'm ordering steel in a day or two and wanted to know if this design was viable an worth making. Please criticize...if its total c**p, tell me...

I'm thinking that 1/4" 1084 would be appropriate if I do make the knife, Thoughts?

The specs for the design are as follows
Length = 13 1/4"
Width = 2 3/4"

Thanks for looking, Ironwood


Fig. 1


Fig. 2

[Frank Niro]

I belive you should continue the blade edge all the way back. I believe you will find that narrow part of the blade to be of no value and also make the wider front part of the blade less useful. Having the handle more recessed will prove to be an advantage as well. Just my thoughts. In the end, it's always good to go with what you personally like.Frank

[Ironwood666]

Thanks for the imput...let me clarify some of the design elements... The narrow part of the blade will have a much steeper grind angle then the chopping portion to allow for some fine work. The curved bit where the 2 areas meet is used as a quarter-rounder and guthook.

I do like the idea of a more recessed handle

[bladsmth]

I'm with Frank. If you removed that depression, and just kept the main edge going back to the handle it will work better.

The functions you describe for the transition sound like sales hype from Alpha Net Products to sell Tom Brown Tracker knives.
Make a cardboard cut-out and try and imitate using that as a gut hook and tell us how it worked out. Quarter-rounder???? for what likely purpose?

That would also be a pretty complex grind to do as drawn.

Just to help me figure out your design as drawn.
How will you be able to make the grind on the narrow section is just as wide, and just as thick, but have a much lower angle?
As drawn, it actually looks like the main edge has slightly lower angle than the thin section, if there will be any difference at all.

[Ironwood666]

The grindlines are not as they should be....the quarter rounder is for feather sticks and and bowdrill spindles...2 items I often use.

however I will change the design to have a full length chopping edge

[Ironwood666]

Here's the modified design

[1066vik]

I like your second design a lot better from an end-user standpoint. less chance of sliding your index finger onto the blade, no odd corner for a sharpening nightmare, etc...
you could still do 2 different grind angles, just like on the mora 2000, but it'll be easier to take care of this way.

[bladsmth]

I like the change ,too.

In all honesty, one can round a stick or make fuzzies with any blade...no need for a quarter rounder that will quickly dull and be hard to sharpen.

[Ironwood666]

Thanks for the help guys

[crimsonfalcon07]

Take this with a grain of salt, coming from another newbie, but I'd probably flare the butt of the handle, or otherwise design in a feature that will keep it from flying out of your hand if you get fatigued. That might also help with the balance. Right now it looks to me like it will be very front heavy.

[Frank Niro]

It sure now looks good to me ! Frank

[Ironwood666]

Take this with a grain of salt, coming from another newbie, but I'd probably flare the butt of the handle, or otherwise design in a feature that will keep it from flying out of your hand if you get fatigued. That might also help with the balance. Right now it looks to me like it will be very front heavy.

the shape of the handle allows the knife to be help farther back for more chopping power.

The knife is supposed to be front heavy, its for chopping.

[Fred.Rowe]

I don't believe there is enough handle to support the blade. Especially for a chopping knife which is to be used with an arc motion when chopping. There is a need for a butt end in most all chopping knives. I do like the second drawing of the blade itself. Is the stepped grind line aesthetic or does it serve a purpose. That would be a hard grind to execute.

Regards, Fred

[Ocelot85]

the shape of the handle allows the knife to be help farther back for more chopping power.

The knife is supposed to be front heavy, its for chopping.

Personally if not for a flare you should atleast add a lanyard hole to prevent it from becoming accidently dislodged from ones hand when fatigued and doing heavy chopping.

[Ironwood666]

I don't believe there is enough handle to support the blade. Especially for a chopping knife which is to be used with an arc motion when chopping. There is a need for a butt end in most all chopping knives. I do like the second drawing of the blade itself. Is the stepped grind line aesthetic or does it serve a purpose. That would be a hard grind to execute.

Regards, Fred

I'm taking your advice and extending and enlarging the handle

The stepped grindline is for function only...the blade near the handle had a more acute grind and is thinner for fine work, the chopping part has a less accute grind to keep the blade from being chipped

[Ironwood666]

Personally if not for a flare you should atleast add a lanyard hole to prevent it from becoming accidently dislodged from ones hand when fatigued and doing heavy chopping.

I'll add that too

[Ironwood666]

OK, here's version 3

[Ocelot85]

What handle material where you thinking about? I'd go with something with some grip and is weather resistant such as G-10.

[Ironwood666]

I was thinking black canvas micarta, relatively rough

[Ocelot85]

Another nice choice, atleast aestetically. Always liked the look of it.