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Thread: Leather Bending Brothers - need some advice on leather thickness.

  1. #1
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    Leather Bending Brothers - need some advice on leather thickness.


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    I have built a few Leatherman and other multi tool leather sheaths - but making the ninety degree corner at the base of the sheath was REALLY tough with 8-10 ounce leather - and it didn't turn our very well.

    What thickness leather would you advise is really needed for making a case for a leatherman and still be sturdy and long wearing?

    Thanks,

    TF

  2. #2
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    TF
    I haven't actually made a sheath like you are describing. I have a customer right now that wants a sheath like that for his folder. I would think that going to 7-8 oz might be the answer. However, I use W&C leather and when properly cased you can fold it and mold it like play doh. Just my 2 cents, and that's probably more than it's worth.
    All the best
    Balding
    A common mistake that people make when trying to design something completely foolproof is to underestimate the ingenuity of complete fools.”
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  3. #3
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    1) 6/7 oz will work just fine - I don't use the weigh that often but I've found the Tandy single shoulders in this and the 4/ oz are usually quite nice and are often on sale.
    2) before bending/forming use a groover on the inside for all areas to be bent

  4. #4
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    I just did a couple of multitool pouches recently. I wet molded the pouch portion with 6-7oz, and sewn it to a 10oz backing with a flap and the belt loop(10oz as well). I figured the flap and belt loop would be receiving the most abuse, so 10oz seemed the way to go.
    Becker Head #94



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  5. #5
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    Tal, I use the combination described by Chuck and Goose except, that the back is 7 oz. with 2/3 liner and the front is two 2/3 flesh to flesh. You know I anal about everything is lined.

    A quick aside: Chuck I bought a load from RJF based on your and Sandy's recommendation.
    *
    Paul
    Instructional DVDs now available at http://chriscrawfordknives.com/ ***New third DVD is now available at the same web site***

    Paul Long------108 Briarwood Ln. W------Kerrville, TX---78028-9311----830 367 5536 pfl@cebridge.net

  6. #6
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    Another way I've done is like Paul using thinner leather glued together so you get a lining and even though glued together to say match up to 8/9 oz you often still get more flexibility.

    Paul I think you will like it, Roger's leather is the closest thing I've found today to the leather we used to get back in the "old days" when they butchered 2-3 year olds rather than feeder calves/yearlings and IMO that age difference makes a difference in the leather quality. I assume you bought the pre-dyed? Because I make old west/aged stuff almost exclusively now I still use plain russet so it will be interesting to hear you're opinion on the pre-dyed for those who might prefer it.

    as an aside Paul re: lining - did you use to make boots by chance? not just lining, but some of your other methods seem to me to have come from that type work anyway????? of course any time I think of boots I think of a couple of other Texans - Jerry Jeff and his boot maker/song Charlie Dunn...speaking of boots I just heard Paul Bond passed on - back when I cowboyed in the late 60's and early 70's he was the man when it came to foot wear - Stetson hats and Paul Bond boots were "required" wear amongst most of the cow hands I knew.......the first pair of custom boots I got were from Paul and after that I NEVER wore store bought over the counter boots, no matter how well made - custom fit was just the cat's meow, especially when you're wearing/working in them 12-16 hours......I did pick up a pair of good brand store bought boots a few years ago, both cowboy and packer and hated them - for custom cowboy I always bought Bond, Dunn, or Luchesse (Sp?), for packer's I had always bought White's out of Spokane, and when I logged it was White's or another Washington maker Kulien.

    For those who never heard of Charlie Dunn or the song by Jerry Jeff - here's a link http://famoustexans.com/charliedunn.htm
    Last edited by Wild Rose; 08-14-2012 at 03:48 AM.

  7. #7
    Tal,
    All my pouches are made from 2,5-3 mm (6-7 oz) leather. Top, back and flap. Nothing new but my few cents

    Mat
    Leather knive sheaths, scabbards and pouches.
    www.mkleathers.pl
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  8. #8
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    People - thank so much for all the advise.

    Chuck I ran a groover on the inside (as that seemed to make sense) but I was using some Wicket and Craig leather that was cut from the back of the hide. It was bit thick and I really had trouble making it look right.

    I will skive it down and try again - maybe even a little belly leather to get a little more pliability out of it.

    TF

  9. #9
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    Be aware wet molding belly leather will only end in headaches. It never keeps its shape for long. The random, loose fibers are to blame.

    I tend to use either 6/7 or 7/8 on pouches and only shoulder leather, it tends to keep its shape much better.
    www.armoralleather.com Dwayne Puckett

    If you have ASHBM measurements for me please PM or post in my subforum link below. Thanks so much for the help so far!

    Armoralleather Forum on BF! click me!

  10. #10
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    Chuck, I'll soon be 80 and I've been wearing custom hand made boots since I was 20. Have about 14 pairs at last count. Regarding my boot making, no I never did, but I spent several years and one concentrated year at the elbow of Don Atkinson, Master boot and saddle maker so I am very familiar with each and every step of boot making from the measuring of the foot to the final polish of the boots and everything in between. There are many steps in the boot making process that lend themselves to other disciplines, for instance my inlay method is taken directly from the method used for boot tops, and of course, the lining method is very similar. My techniques are an amalgam of things I've learned doing many things, just as you.

    I talked with Roger yesterday and I have several of the vat dyed backs headed this way. It will be good to not have to square up the sides and figure out how to use the best parts of the belly. At least 50% of the belly leather is useless for me and the relatively small increase in square foot price to go up to the backs, I think will be well worth it. Based on your and Sandy's endorsement, I'm sure I'm going to really like the leather.

    Paul
    Instructional DVDs now available at http://chriscrawfordknives.com/ ***New third DVD is now available at the same web site***

    Paul Long------108 Briarwood Ln. W------Kerrville, TX---78028-9311----830 367 5536 pfl@cebridge.net

  11. #11
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    Thanks Leatherman.

    TF

  12. #12
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    Oh! I forgot my worst experience with pouch molding! I got a hold of some "double butt" leather, its the densest area of the hide. Its wonderful for heavy use sheaths as it holds shape and stiffness very well through use and flexing, but, and its a big but. Its a literal pain to wet mold into a pouch. It fought me on every turn, it wants to go back to flat in the worst way. Took me twice the time to mold that darn pouch, lot of going back to refit as it dried as well. But one thing, that bugger was rock hard after all was said and done! Just not worth all that time and pain in the hands.
    www.armoralleather.com Dwayne Puckett

    If you have ASHBM measurements for me please PM or post in my subforum link below. Thanks so much for the help so far!

    Armoralleather Forum on BF! click me!

  13. #13
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    I make it a rule to only buy double butt on Saturday nights...



    ...am I using my outside voice?


    TF

  14. #14
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    HA! I hadda feeling I would get a little poke from that.

    (you see what I did there?)
    www.armoralleather.com Dwayne Puckett

    If you have ASHBM measurements for me please PM or post in my subforum link below. Thanks so much for the help so far!

    Armoralleather Forum on BF! click me!

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