Sharpening a 3" Slicer - Let's talk about angles

[Maprik]

I've been thinking about sharpening a lot these days, reading about steel, watching videos on sharpening. From a previous post I know that Rubi and Birdhunter sharpen their XMs using a 22-24 degree angle. But if the primary use of my XM is to cut open packages, cardboard boxes, cut through rope and maybe whittle a bit then why not sharpen my XM to 20 degrees? Or even 18 for some really serious effortless slicing? Isn't the steel tough enough to handle this kind of angle and hold that edge for a while? And does changing the production angle affect the warranty? What if the blade chips? Thanks for your thoughts fellas.

[emel]

If you mean 18 per side, that is not so extreme, and if it chips you just have to resharpen it, thats with any knife, you can't blame the manufacturer for chips, for one they can't see what you have cut with it.

Unless there were heat treat mistakes made on the steel, edge wear is always on your own account.

[Maprik]

Yeah, that makes sense, although how would someone know if there were heat treat mistakes? But that's not really the thrust of my question. I'm curious why people don't sharpen these tough steels to sharper angles. Why not sharpen to 18 degrees?

[RubiconSS]

My perspective (in a nutshell) I have not had to sharpen my 3" slicers (yet) touch-ups/stropping has kept them razor sharp.
Go to the angle that attains the user goal and no farther - don't get hung up on the #.
The beauty of the WEPS is repetition and accuracy so, the ability to find and match the angle (both sides is relatively easy using either an angle cube or just some sharpie tics and a stroke or two.
I use 22* on my spantos but would probably go to 20* on a slicer (starting at 22*) you can take it off but you can't put it back on.
I just wrapped a birthday gift and used my 3" slicer to cut the wrapping paper (very light thin paper) went through it like a light saber.
We can discuss chipping and heat treating if you like but suffice it to say, the only chipping I have experienced due to blade steel have on uber hard RC's of 65ish.
You can tell if there is a heat treat issue (different kind of look)
Don't worry about that stuff. When you get proficient with your WEPS slight damage repair will give you an excuse to go have some fun.
The Ranch offers sharpening but you won't need it.
So, IMO 22* on Spantos and possibly going to 20* on slicers BUT after trying 22* just to see.

FYI- Spydercos are routinely 15* BUT the procedure is considered a trade secret of the company.
Sharpest knife I own from the box is a Spydie. I carry Hinderers though.

BTW- Use the blue painters tape I have mentioned to protect your blades prior to clamping as well as tape your pivot to keep filings out. (Tip of the Day)

[Maprik]

That's exactly the kind of advice I was looking for. Thank you! Whenever it is that I feel confident enough with the WEPS to sharpen my XM I will start at 22 and see how that edge works for me. BTW, a pic of how you tape your pivot would be great to see!

[RubiconSS]

I will locate some of those for you, in the interim didn't know if you found this thread.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/sh...pen-a-Hinderer

[Maprik]

I will locate some of those for you, in the interim didn't know if you found this thread.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/sh...pen-a-Hinderer

Oh that's excellent thanks!!!!

[RubiconSS]

Here go



BTW- That edge will whittle a human hair

[RubiconSS]

[Maprik]

Nice. And that's at 22*?

[Maprik]

I will locate some of those for you, in the interim didn't know if you found this thread.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/sh...pen-a-Hinderer

Rubi - this is an awesome thread!!!! I would suggest making this a STICKY on the forum top-page!!

[RubiconSS]

Nice. And that's at 22*?

No. That particular piece is a RC 65 that I took to 15* Much much thinner profile blade grind overall then an XM

[Need2Know]

Rubi took my answer.

Just kidding. He's a wealth of sharpening info.

But the statement about only touching up the Slicer to keep it sharp is true in my world. And my Spantos (at 22* on a Wicked) now only need a couple passes every few days on a steel or strop to stay very sharp as well.

[RubiconSS]

Whittled hair disclaimer: That was indeed my Wifes hair (she has plenty, that was removed from her head first and no animals (or Her) was harmed in the process)

I would have used my own hair but could not find the box I keep it in.

The "hair whittling" experiment was done just for fun and to see if it was really possible, I had heard of folks doing it and wanted to see for myself.
Do I really think that is now the litmus test for proclaiming a knife sharp? No.
I would advise a sharp "working edge" for anyone who asked.
I define a working edge as one which is slightly sharper than you need to cut the stuff you most often find yourself cutting. Keep it as obtuse as possible while accomplishing that task.
It is an oft debated subject as to whether the working edge should be left somewhat serrated or stropped to smoothness, I'll leave that up to the user to determine through trial and error which will lead to a personal preference determination that translates to the "right answer" to an otherwise no right/wrong answer debate.

[strider214]

I have my slicer at 20 degrees and have had no problems.

* both my wives and one baby zebra were harmed due to this post.

[Hans17]

I have my slicer at 20 degrees and have had no problems.

* both my wives and one baby zebra were harmed due to this post.

20 inclusive or 20 degrees each side 40 inclusive?

[strider214]

20 degrees each side.

[Birdhunter1220]

I have my XM-18 3" at 22 and it does everything I want. I may take it lower someday but as Rubi says "once it is gone it is gone", I touch it up every 3 or 4 days and that is all it needs. I did convex my 3.5 and love it. Having the angles recorded for the wicked edge is such a great thing, repeating is a snap. Just pick and angle and go for it, it is always fun to sharpen.

[Maprik]

I got the WEPS today and I just spent the past hour sharpening my first knife to hair shaving sharpness. An old Henkel Chef's knife that we haven't used in years. Now it's the sharpest knife in the drawer. After about 15-20 minutes I totally got the two handed sweeping thing down! I really really really enjoy this and talk about easier than the edge pro!! My stones top at 1000 and I see why I need to go higher. Still seeing fine scratches on the blade edge. Tomorrow I will go and buy some wet/dry grits up to 2500 if I can find them at HD!!! I've got a couple more kitchen knives to try next... I don't want to get ahead of myself but I feel like I know what I am doing already! This weekend I think I will tackle a user Les George VECP and see if I can get a mirrored 22 degree edge on that. CTS-XHP steel. It'll be good to practice on because I was planning on sending it back to Les at the end of the month anyway for a little pivot work (it's really tight and hard to deploy and the lock-up is really sticky). So if I mess it up he'll fix it.

Question: If my knife is sharp, just not hair shaving sharp anymore, which grit should I start with? No reason to go all the way down to 100 is there?

[claycat]

Edumacational tread. I am currently am on a Sharpmaker but after years of practice I am yet to be able to sharp EVERY knife I own to hair splitting sharpness but I would like to.
The 30 and 40 degrees settings on the Sharpmaker, is that inclusive?
I have Hinderer, JWS, RJ Martin, Spydies, BM's and my EDC is a CS Voyager and BM Mini Ritter.

I am gathering that Wicked Edge is the Gold standard for sharpening systems?

Thanks for starting this thread.