15n20 Batch Photos! Finished Up

[Daniel Fairly Knives]

I just finished these up yesterday, check 'em out!

These are all made of super thin and very tough 15n20 steel, it holds a great edge and is excellent all around material.

The 15n20 I used on these is .049" thick so they are all slice very well. The bevels look short but the geometry is very thin so they really cut. 15n20 is made for commercial bandsaw blades, the big ones used to process huge trees. These are all a user finish, very functional and utilitarian. I considered keeping the whole batch because I want to use them all so badly!


The neck knife is for sale and everything else is spoken for. Thanks for looking!

Here's the batch together and oiled up! They are not oiled in the other photos, that is why they look a fair bit different.





Japanese Style Chef's Knife - Laser! This one is super light and feels great in the hand. Scary sharp

Black Paper Micarta Scales with Stainless 3/8" tube hardware

[Daniel Fairly Knives]

Big respect to Murray Carter for the inspiration for this one. Mine is a lot different but I thought Murray deserves some credit on this one. I have been reading his new book on bladesmithing, great reading material for the master or student.

Black Canvas Micarta - 5/16" stainless hardware

This one has a great grind for bushcraft, carving, general utility use, etc... very versatile, thin and tough. The grind is a scandi chisel grind with a small microbevel on both sides for ease of sharpening and ambidextrous use.

It's very light with an ergonomic handle, carry it everywhere! It is great as a necker, pocket or belt knife. Forge finish for durability... user finish on the blade but lots of hand finishing time in the scales so they are very comfortable and well finished.

The sheath still needs hardware, I can also install a teklok for $10. I have hardware ready to go.

6.5" long - 2.5" of blade - ultralight and super tough! $100 with sheath plus $8 for usps priority shipping in the US (or actual shipping cost for international)



There appears to be a discoloration on the scales around the tube hardware... the micarta is just wet.

[Daniel Fairly Knives]

Kitchen Utility!

I made this one for slicing small veggies but it can also be used for detail work and cleaning meats.

I used to be a chef and I have to say, I'm keeping the next one of these! It works even better than expected with great leverage and a handy tip. It is a real extension of the hand. The Japanese (Wa) inspired handle is comfortable and versatile. This one also has a very small microbevel for ease of sharpening and yes, it's sharp!





I missed some black compound near the scales, that will wipe right off... oops!

[Daniel Fairly Knives]

Kiridashi - This is the new ultralight design that I am currently making more of along with my bigger ones. Check the kiridashi thread for the new batch, they are just started. I'll have them available for about $40 when finished.

It only weighs about 3/4 ounce!

It's 4" long and super thin with a chisel grind and an easy to sharpen microbevel on the back of the main grind. The hole in the front serves for grip, indexing and sheath retention while also lightening the weight a bit. It could also be lashed to a stick because of the two holes. They are also great for daily use, cutting cord, opening boxes, etc.

This is made to be stashed in your bug out bag, survival kit, worn as a necker or in the pocket. As a necker is isn't even noticeable.

[Daniel Fairly Knives]

Updated with photos!

[fast14riot]

That scalpel 'dashi is too cool! Also the little wharnie reminds me of my Folts Minimalist.

Good work!



-X

[Daniel Fairly Knives]

That scalpel 'dashi is too cool! Also the little wharnie reminds me of my Folts Minimalist.

Good work!



-X

Thanks! I'm making more of those dashis, they are fun.

Folts, thanks! I had not thought of that knife but I see what you mean. It really feels great in the hand.


I usually oil my knives before photos... they are all oiled up now and look way better.

[Lycosa]

Daniel- I like your thin handle. Stick a cg blade on one for a kwkn shank.

[bigcountry1315]

Awesome work Daniel!!!!

[flatblackcapo]

Very cool , Daniel! My wife had asked me to make her a paring knife .I might try that 15n20 ,sounds like it would be a good steel.

[drjoe]

i'm just starting my first project as a knifemaker using 15n20 for some kitchen knives, with aldo's 0.09" (stock removal only).

can you share some tips on the heat treat and quench medium used?

i can't see any pictures here at work, but did you consider using clay to put a hamon on, just for fun?

[Daniel Fairly Knives]

Daniel- I like your thin handle. Stick a cg blade on one for a kwkn shank.

Ok, I like it! Multiple indexing too...

Awesome work Daniel!!!!

Thanks!

Very cool , Daniel! My wife had asked me to make her a paring knife .I might try that 15n20 ,sounds like it would be a good steel.

It's perfect for any type of kitchen knife. Until a week or two ago it was only available as band saw blade stock... NJ Steelbaron now has it in thicker as he had some custom made for knifemakers! The thicker stuff would be nice for a machete or chopper. L6 is close in composition

i'm just starting my first project as a knifemaker using 15n20 for some kitchen knives, with aldo's 0.09" (stock removal only).

can you share some tips on the heat treat and quench medium used?

i can't see any pictures here at work, but did you consider using clay to put a hamon on, just for fun?

Nice to hear and welcome to Bladeforums!

Heat treat - bring to 1480 hold for a minute or two, quench in oil. Canola is fine hardening speed wise for 15n20, I use Mcmaster-Carr 11 second quench oil, that is ideal.

The heat treat is about as simple as it gets, it is a great steel... tough and good edge holding so it works for everything.

I am pretty sure that 15n20 is through hardening so you can try for a temper line but no hamon. (no clouds but maybe a line) Try a thin layer of clay and see, I'm really not too sure on the level of activity. Hamons take a ton of work, Nick Wheeler has some great videos on the subject here on BF.

Good luck with everything, just let me know if you need any help.

[Lycosa]

Daniel- You just keep crankin good stuff out! highsign!!

[mr_badexample]

These all look really great. The large kitchen knife is something I hope to see available in the future.

Brian

[trkJr]

All cool but really liking the little kitchen utility blade!

[drjoe]

oops, forgot we covered this is the previous post, but thanks for the repeat answer.

i will start my own post in the beginner's forum at don fogg's site soon. tried a cheap hacksaw and got nowhere last weekend, but will try the high tension saw with the lenox blade this weekend and start posting pictures. the local blacksmith school has some farrier forges and canola, so maybe i'll start there rather than waiting to set up my own thing up here.

anyway, thanks again, these pieces look good. love the kiridashi -- was thinking of something similar with the cut-out scraps.

[Daniel Fairly Knives]

Daniel- You just keep crankin good stuff out! highsign!!

Much appreciated!

These all look really great. The large kitchen knife is something I hope to see available in the future.

Brian

I'll be doing more kitchen knives for sure! They are a lot of fun...

All cool but really liking the little kitchen utility blade!

Thanks! I will make more eventually, I really want one for the kitchen. It works even better than expected, the design is a keeper for sure.

oops, forgot we covered this is the previous post, but thanks for the repeat answer.

i will start my own post in the beginner's forum at don fogg's site soon. tried a cheap hacksaw and got nowhere last weekend, but will try the high tension saw with the lenox blade this weekend and start posting pictures. the local blacksmith school has some farrier forges and canola, so maybe i'll start there rather than waiting to set up my own thing up here.

anyway, thanks again, these pieces look good. love the kiridashi -- was thinking of something similar with the cut-out scraps.

Hey no problem! I enjoy helping out, I've had about 10 emails about the 15n20 heat treat this week, I think Aldo has everyone pumped about the new thicker material!

You won't be disappointed as long as you ht it right (which is as easy as ht'ing gets), I was testing the necker on a 2x4 yesterday and was very impressed. The only downside is that the surface finish can be a bit funky on 15n20, I just leave it simple as the performance is excellent.

I'd temper at 350 to start, the edge geometry has a bit to do with the right temper temp. 350 for a slicer and 400 for a chopper is a good general temper on 15n20, 385 in my kiln seems to be a good temp for a really tough kitchen knife. As a habit I temper for 2.5 hours twice with a quick water cool between the two cycles... without getting into the science it will give you a blade that is a hair bit better.

[Daniel Fairly Knives]

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