Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 37

Thread: wood

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    425

    wood


    Sponsored Ad
    Remove ads and support BladeForums.com!
    i know im putting this in the wrong place but i really dont know where it goes :P

    anyway for any knife maker or modifiers, where do you get the wood for the handles?

    Thanks,
    Walrus

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    The....Village
    Posts
    6,989
    Try "Knifemakers Shop Talk"

    That aside, Bell Forest Products in MI is a good source of wood, as is the Exchange here on BFC....
    "E nānā `ia ka pulapula i ka la`a kea i ka la`a uli"


  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Tolono, IL
    Posts
    1,207
    Also, Burlsource is amazing. But yes, check and ask in ShopTalk.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Cayuga Lake
    Posts
    12,618
    Moved to Shop Talk.
    aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaakarda@bladeforums.comaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Cape Breton, Nova Scotia
    Posts
    1,141
    Quote Originally Posted by TheGoldenWalrus View Post
    where do you get the wood for the handles?
    The neighbor's firewood pile. Shhhhhhhhhhhh..........

    Honestly though, I've scrounged up some incredible wood from the pile. Great source.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    1,003
    Burl Source was already mentioned, but you can get all sorts of handle materials (non wood or wood) from knifemaker supply places, of which there are many. knifekits, texasknife, jantz, usaknifemaker, knifemaker.ca, etc. Burl Source has some of the most gorgeous wood I've seen though, and very well stabilized.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Englewood, CO
    Posts
    4,412
    If you have a local woodcraft or exotic woods store, you can check there as well.
    Beckerhead #149
    HTM/DDR Crew Member

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    425
    ok thanks, will check out burl source.
    and unfortunantly there are not any sources of wood in my area besides cutting down a tree or waiting for one to fall :P
    .... maybe i can just wait till hurricane season >: D

    edit: any place i might be able to get some niceish wood for more around $10-15?

    edit edit: oh nevermind i found a seller on the bay who sells precut bookmatched about 5" long and 2"wide on average from anywhere from about $7-15 with shipping

    so i guess this topic is pointless now.....
    Last edited by TheGoldenWalrus; 09-26-2012 at 12:22 PM.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    1,003
    Keep in mind unstabilized wood can and will shrink/expand and otherwise cause issues on knife handles, depending on climate change etc. Some woods are more or less susceptible depending on density etc, as well. Any natural material like bone/antler/wood etc can change with climate.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Washington, DC
    Posts
    119
    What mgysgthath said, but especially of ebay wood. I have found a couple of great sources there, but some have sent scales that are still green, and resemble potato chips after they dry. Also want to ditto the wood pile and deadfall. I've got a load of beautiful and very hard cherry and maple from friends, and a bunch of spalted sycamore burl I found while fishing. Free wood, just have to pay for stabilization.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    425
    well apparently stabilizing isnt too hard, although i have absolutly 0 experience :P.
    apparently just a few coats of "minwax wood hardener" does the trick, and can be bought for about 10 bucks
    which still comes to less than burlsouce charges for their wood

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Englewood, CO
    Posts
    4,412
    There's a huge difference between home stabilization and professional stabilization in my opinion.
    Beckerhead #149
    HTM/DDR Crew Member

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Washington, DC
    Posts
    119
    I'm all about the "ditto" today. CF07 is correct. I've tried Nelsonite that pool cue makers seem to love. I tried the Minwax, complete with mason jar and brake bleeder to form a vacuum. I'm not a fan of either, and could have a decent pile of stabilized wood for the time, money I wasted trying to save a buck. I'd rather pay Knife & Gun to do it properly, or buy it already done through BurlSource, or another reputable dealer.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    425
    hmm well what are some woods that dont need stabilizing as much?
    also im not really looking for Burl or anything, just something that looks fairly good and fairly strong. (and doesnt cost more than $15 for about a 1 1/2" (wide) x 3-5" (long)
    also i do have some red cedar if it comes down to it, but its defiantly pretty plain.

    Edit: i have my eye on some variants of Oak and Maple precut bookmatched on the bay. would they be ok without stabilization?

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    1,003
    Quote Originally Posted by TheGoldenWalrus View Post
    hmm well what are some woods that dont need stabilizing as much?
    also im not really looking for Burl or anything, just something that looks fairly good and fairly strong. (and doesnt cost more than $15 for about a 1 1/2" (wide) x 3-5" (long)
    also i do have some red cedar if it comes down to it, but its defiantly pretty plain.

    Edit: i have my eye on some variants of Oak and Maple precut bookmatched on the bay. would they be ok without stabilization?

    Dense oily woods like Desert Ironwood, Ebony, Maybe some Rosewoods for example.. They're generally more expensive though. Can't say for Maple and Oak, I've not read about them in that respect.
    Last edited by mgysgthath; 09-26-2012 at 02:22 PM.

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Cape Breton, Nova Scotia
    Posts
    1,141
    Walrus - Both Oak and Maple are fine woods for a knife handle. What others were saying about home DIY stabilizing.... take it to heart. The product you can achieve at home is completely different than what Knife and Gun produces or that that you get from Burl Source..... way different. BTW, cedar is often considered a bit soft for a knife handle but, hey - go for it.

    Peter

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    425
    apparently i can get some ebony, rosewood, or desert ironwood fairly cheap on the bay. but i dont really like the looks :/
    i might stick with the maple or oak and just risk it.
    also if i put oil on the handle say... about once a month would that help at all?

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Stockton, CA - We are not responsible for lost or stolen items.
    Posts
    4,597
    Walnut. Good looking grain, holds up well, doesn't need to be stabilized, easy to finish, cheap. Rifle stocks and furnitur last 100+ years made from walnut.

    Pro stabilizing vs. Soaking in wood hardener is a dead argument, they are NOT the same thing.


    -Xander

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    425
    i really like walnut, now i just need to find some at the right price.

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Spokane, WA
    Posts
    1,489

    Sponsored Ad
    Remove ads and support BladeForums.com!
    Keep an eye on knife making supplies here on the forums, got so really nice walnut for cheaper then the bay and way better quality too.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •