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Thread: Hunting with throwing knives

  1. #1

    Hunting with throwing knives


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    Hello,
    I would like to get into throwing knives and bo shuriken, and want to hunt small game with them. I am leaning toward the Cold Steel throwing knives/weapons, and noticed that they referenced hunting under their Torpedo. I can't find videos or direct references about people actually hunting with anything like this. It seems like I should learn to throw no spin if I want to hunt. Can you guys point me toward info on this or offer advise/experience on which knives and technique might work?
    Thanks

  2. #2
    You can hunt small game with Phillips head screwdrivers, its not necessarily the knife but more on your technique and skill level. It would be pretty inhumane to just buy a set of throwing knives and trott off into the woods beaning squirrels and such with the handle of a knife! Here's your sign!

    Master the art of throwing for a year or so and then you will know when you are ready to take any game. All the best.

  3. #3
    I think the dude that owns cold steel took out a boar with 3 knives.its all about placement.

  4. #4
    Thanks for your input!
    I definitely agree about needing plenty of practice, and if I get good at no spin there shouldn't be to much risk of hitting with the handle. Would you throw screwdrivers no spin? Have you taken game with screwdrivers?
    Taking a boar with throwing knives is amazing, thats a lot more meat than I would want angry at me when within knife throwing distance.
    Any other input on how to get started in terms of knives and techniques with hunting as the goal?
    Thanks

  5. #5
    Which cold steel thrower do you guys think would be best for this?

  6. #6
    You could start with short peices of rebar sharpened at both ends, if you have the means to cut and sharpen them it would be very cheap. made some up in my teens, and liked throwing them. Never hunted anything, but they could be deadly no question.

  7. #7
    That's a good idea, I do have a bench grinder so I'll probably try that. Then once I know more about throwing, and know more about the different knives, I can upgrade.
    I'd still like to hear knife hunting stories if you have them though.
    Thanks guys.

  8. #8
    I tried the rebar thing.
    1. Rebar is TOUGH and it will take its toll on your grinder so you may need a replacement wheel (i did)
    2. You can get all kinds of dif sized rebar. I researched the Perfect Balance Knife and found that 5/8th inch rebar cut into 12 in spikes are around the same weight as those knives.
    3. Think about your target. I put a rough point on mine and because of the thickness of the rebar I will need to get a much finer point on it to get it to stick in most woods I have tried throwing at. Pines are softer woods so you might have better luck with them as a target (not the tree of course but a target you made. DON'T KILL TREES). I have even thought about stacking up a couple blocks of hay to see how it might work as a target. Also many factories compress and bind their excess cardboard or packing material and could possibly be an easy/cheap target.
    4. In the end I found that it is pretty much just as easy and cheap to go to lowes and get some steel bars for about 15 bucks that you can cut into knives and sharpen them yourself. Its really easy to do if you have the tools and its a fun project. They are tough as nails and stick much better than the rebar (in my opinion/experience)

    By no means am i trying to talk you out of the spikes if thats what you really want. I just tried the same thing and wasn't very happy with the results.
    Good luck sir(s),
    Cecil

  9. #9
    No, thats all good advice. I didn't feel like writing a much with my first rebar suggestion, just wanted to throw out the idea.

    You can also just buy the large"spikes" (large nails often used in landscape timbers) and just have one end to really grind to shape. The problem in my opinion is I would they are too light for hunting.

    The different bar stocks available all can certainly make good throwers. I liked the rebar as its weight has more "thumping power" and if hunting squirls or the like you really don't even need it to have points at all.

    I'm sure there are a few other good ideas out there as well.

  10. #10
    Thanks, good ideas guys.
    I'm away at school now, but over Christmas break I'll get some assorted chunks of metal and see what knives and spikes I can grind them into.
    I may also get one each of a couple of the cold steel throwers, and then make throwers modeled after whichever one I like best.
    Unicyclist

  11. #11
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    I have a real hard time believing this one.

    Quote Originally Posted by CecilDaDiesel View Post
    I think the dude that owns cold steel took out a boar with 3 knives.its all about placement.
    I would suggest using a gil hibben pro thrower II. The one with a double sided axe head and front spike.

    If you really want cold steel I suggest the perfect balance thrower.

  12. #12
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    Harry McEvoy wrote a book on knife throwing that's available on line in paperback (cheap). His Tru-Balance knives are marketed by his survivors.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregorio View Post
    I have a real hard time believing this one.



    I would suggest using a gil hibben pro thrower II. The one with a double sided axe head and front spike.

    If you really want cold steel I suggest the perfect balance thrower.
    I would also read Gil's book on knife throwing.

  14. #14
    Killing a boar with thrown knives does sound like quite a challenge. I would think a spear would be a better option for something that size.
    The McEvoy book was cheaper, and appears to have more on hunting, so it's in the mail from Amazon!
    The Tru Bal knives look awesome but are out of my price range; the Bowie Axe looks similar to the CS perfect balance, so I may get that or try to make my own knife similar to the bowie axe.
    The gil hibben pro thrower II looks cool and effective, but kinda bulky and harder to carry around.
    Thanks for your advice guys

  15. #15
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    I use 9 inch by 1/4 bo shuriken they seam to be the best between power and speed i haven't gotten anything hunting with them yet but its all about were you hit. how will you get close enough to hit them? at more than 30 feet accuracy relay falls off.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by bronyblacksmith View Post
    I use 9 inch by 1/4 bo shuriken they seam to be the best between power and speed i haven't gotten anything hunting with them yet but its all about were you hit. how will you get close enough to hit them? at more than 30 feet accuracy relay falls off.
    I'd be careful, bo shuriken may pierce the creature, and even cause a decent wound, but it's highly likely they will still get away. I've shot rabbits in the desert with a pistol crossbow that only had pointed tips, no edges, and they very well survived and took off. Hell of a chase. I'd be more likely to rely on something with an edge.

  17. #17
    This is a great reference for shuriken lovers..

    http://www.secrets-of-shuriken.com.au/index1.htm

    Have a look at the schools link to get an idea of the different types. I often look at this just for fun..

    I have thrown 6 inch nails with success. Cheap and no biggy if you lose them..

    I have a long way to go before I hunt with them though. I hope this helps...

    P.S. This is GOLD http://www.secrets-of-shuriken.com.au/index6.htm
    Last edited by pap11y; 11-07-2012 at 12:05 AM. Reason: added my favourite page

  18. #18
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    Ralph E Thorn. Combat throwing.

    He has video's and books on no spin throwing.

    watch a few of his youtube video's to see what it is all about.

  19. #19
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    I throw an ESEE Junglas. It sticks pretty deep. It would be great for hunting.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1iKd5MH_Hdk
    If you watch the whole thing, you can see how far away i throw from (about 15ish feet)

    The only advice I can offer is, get used to throwing from an approximate distance so you can stick it somewhat consistently.

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