Design critique please NOW A WIP

**PaMtnBkr** · 10-12-2012, 07:08 AM

LOVE your bladeshape! I have become totally enamored in sheepsfoot/Wharncliff style blades! Out of curiousity, do you do your drawing in some kind of drawing program or do you draw with pencil? Thanks for the WIP!

**Matt Markell** · 10-12-2012, 09:27 AM

Hey Ryan, glad to hear you like it. Updates will probably take some time now, I have a few more 1095 knives that I need to make before I send all these to Darrin and I'm waiting for my new grinder to arrive before I do those.

PaMtnBkr I use Inkscape to do my drawing. It's a free vector graphics program that works great except that it has no concept of dimensions in real life. That's one of the reasons I had trouble with my drill holes being larger then planned. It takes a little work to get things sized correctly but other then that it works great.

**daizee** · 10-12-2012, 11:32 AM

Matt, I believe this is an EXCELLENT design for several reasons.
It is practical and manufacturable. You have no jarring straight lines, and the plunge, nose, and pommel curves reference each other nicely. Also, you have a nice cleanable curve at the front of the handle.
I have a couple in similar formats, so perhaps I'm a bit biased.

A couple recommendations: countersink your holes - looks like they aren't from the pix, but ignore if I'm wrong.
Also, I use DraftSight, which lets you set the dimensions to real units at printing time. Typically you only need the centerpunch locations for your holes anyway, but it's nice to see a good representation in the drawing too.

**Matt Markell** · 10-12-2012, 12:33 PM

Thanks for the comments daizee. I haven't countersunk my holes yet but they will be. Interestingly enough I was just looking at DraftSight! Cool thing is it runs on Linux as well as Windows and since I am a Linux guy that's great stuff for me. I can usually get Inkscape to work using dot per inch calculations and scaling the drawing but I would like to start using a real CAD system.

**daizee** · 10-12-2012, 03:29 PM

Originally Posted by OzarkMatt

Thanks for the comments daizee. I haven't countersunk my holes yet but they will be. Interestingly enough I was just looking at DraftSight! Cool thing is it runs on Linux as well as Windows and since I am a Linux guy that's great stuff for me. I can usually get Inkscape to work using dot per inch calculations and scaling the drawing but I would like to start using a real CAD system.

It runs on windoze? who cares?

"Linux bantha 3.2.0-32-generic #51-Ubuntu SMP Wed Sep 26 21:33:09 UTC 2012 x86_64 x86_64 x86_64 GNU/Linux"

**Matt Markell** · 10-12-2012, 03:31 PM

Linux matt-Compaq-Presario-CQ60-Notebook-PC 3.2.0-31-generic-pae #50-Ubuntu SMP Fri Sep 7 16:39:45 UTC 2012 i686 i686 i386 GNU/Linux

**mgysgthath** · 10-12-2012, 03:31 PM

Symmetrical Multiprocessing ftw

I just downloaded both those apps.. gonna try em out, because I can't draw for squat.

**el0147** · 10-12-2012, 03:35 PM

Originally Posted by daizee

Matt, I believe this is an EXCELLENT design for several reasons.
It is practical and manufacturable. You have no jarring straight lines, and the plunge, nose, and pommel curves reference each other nicely. Also, you have a nice cleanable curve at the front of the handle.
I have a couple in similar formats, so perhaps I'm a bit biased.

A couple recommendations: countersink your holes - looks like they aren't from the pix, but ignore if I'm wrong.
Also, I use DraftSight, which lets you set the dimensions to real units at printing time. Typically you only need the centerpunch locations for your holes anyway, but it's nice to see a good representation in the drawing too.

Me to

looks like a great design. You guys are a lot more advanced then me, I just draw mine

(might need to try draftsight.) Looking good so far and can't wait to see it finished!

**Matt Markell** · 10-12-2012, 03:40 PM

Got my small holes c-sunk, my countersink is a 1/2" so I can't do the big ones with it. Some sandpaper should do it.

**mgysgthath** · 10-12-2012, 03:46 PM

SO are you printing that pattern out and then gluing it to your blank to line up all the holes etc?

**Matt Markell** · 10-12-2012, 03:52 PM

Originally Posted by mgysgthath

SO are you printing that pattern out and then gluing it to your blank to line up all the holes etc?

Yessir! Superglue to hold it down then drill my holes then saw then grind to profile. I drill my holes first because when I grind the profile I have to dip the blade to cool it and that blurs my lines.

Here's a sneak peak of another project I'm working on!

Apologies for the blurriness but I think it adds to the suspense

**darrin sanders** · 10-12-2012, 03:56 PM

Looks like a well thought out and useful design. I can't wait to see it first hand.

**Matt Markell** · 10-12-2012, 03:59 PM

Originally Posted by darrin sanders

Looks like a well thought out and useful design. I can't wait to see it first hand.

You'll be seeing it pretty soon I think, I'm going to try and get these shipped out to you sometime next week. I was originally going to wait until I have some other knives done but I can't wait

**Daniel Fairly Knives** · 10-12-2012, 04:18 PM

Originally Posted by OzarkMatt

Thanks Daniel, I blame my time hanging around in your forum for this

...lol and it still came out cool!

Outstanding! I like the process you use and the outcome is great. The last one is my favorite, I really like the lines.

**Matt Markell** · 10-12-2012, 04:27 PM

Originally Posted by Daniel Fairly Knives

...lol and it still came out cool!

Outstanding! I like the process you use and the outcome is great. The last one is my favorite, I really like the lines.

Glad you like it. My process could use some work, dealing with the paper becomes a pain during profiling. I'd like to start using templates and scribing onto the barstock but every time I make a template, it ends up sharp!

The last one is a hunter with green canvas micarta scales that is gluing up right now, I'll probably post it in a new thread tomorrow after cleanup.

**Matt Markell** · 10-12-2012, 05:20 PM

And here we go, ready for HT. Sanded to 120 except for the bevel which is 220.

**mgysgthath** · 10-12-2012, 09:11 PM

Originally Posted by OzarkMatt

Glad you like it. My process could use some work, dealing with the paper becomes a pain during profiling. I'd like to start using templates and scribing onto the barstock but every time I make a template, it ends up sharp!

The last one is a hunter with green canvas micarta scales that is gluing up right now, I'll probably post it in a new thread tomorrow after cleanup.

Micarta makes good template material, actually G10 or any of the cheap but durable handle materials do. That said I do the same thing you do, they all end up sharp lol. Looking good dude, can't wait to see em finished. Also thanks for the paper/glue idea

**Matt Markell** · 10-12-2012, 09:20 PM

Originally Posted by mgysgthath

Micarta makes good template material, actually G10 or any of the cheap but durable handle materials do. That said I do the same thing you do, they all end up sharp lol. Looking good dude, can't wait to see em finished. Also thanks for the paper/glue idea

I hadn't thought of that, that's a great idea! I have a bunch (well not that much but enough) of 1/4" black micarta to do several of my smaller knives.

Btw, I don't do this myself, I probably should but I've heard 3M spray adhesive is waaaaaay easier to use then superglue to glue paper templates down.

Thanks