Best knife for batoning

[gomipile]

Hard to beat a bk2 for batoning. 1/4" thick 1095. If you dont like the grivory grips spend the money on the micarta. Half of your required spend (w/ the grips) and you have a hellacious knife. I traded one off for a BK7 (another superb knife!) but i missed my BK2....so....i got another. The only knife ive ever had that i bought again...ive had plenty!

I love the BK2 as well, but given that he uses a Trail Master, I thought it might be too short for his purposes.

The BK9's blade is just 1/2" shorter than the Trail Master. Its blade profile has proven to be excellent for batoning for many users. The weight is almost the same as the Trail Master. The steel is high quality.
Overall, its value in chopping/batoning power per dollar is very high.

The other knives recommended here are awesome, but much of their advantage over the BK9 is in their suitability for other fine tasks due to the work that has been put into their design. For use primarily as a "belt froe" and less so as a camp knife, the BK9 is excellent.

If you're looking for pure bang for your buck on a knife that is excellent at doing the same job that you use you Trail Master for, I don't think you have to spend more than the cost of a BK9.

 

[theedge13]

I love the BK2 as well, but given that he uses a Trail Master, I thought it might be too short for his purposes.

The BK9's blade is just 1/2" shorter than the Trail Master. Its blade profile has proven to be excellent for batoning for many users. The weight is almost the same as the Trail Master. The steel is high quality.
Overall, its value in chopping/batoning power per dollar is very high.

The other knives recommended here are awesome, but much of their advantage over the BK9 is in their suitability for other fine tasks due to the work that has been put into their design. For use primarily as a "belt froe" and less so as a camp knife, the BK9 is excellent.

If you're looking for pure bang for your buck on a knife that is excellent at doing the same job that you use you Trail Master for, I don't think you have to spend more than the cost of a BK9.

I wont argue over anything that Ethan makes :thumbup:
I just dont have experience w/ a BK9 (unfortunately.....YET ) and the 2 is built like a tank. I will own a BK9 oh yes...it will be mine. Honestly, is my next knife. Love Ethan's stuff!

 

[Brian Sargent]

Ranger Knives RD9 would be another good choice.

I agree Bax Axe. I have the Trailmaster and RD-9. The RD doesn't have the swedge so the baton lasts longer. You can find an RD cheaper than the Trailmaster and it has a life time warranty.

 

[cziv]

Dag-nabit - did you put that wicked grind on the RC-4?

Ankerson - you should open a concession at the end of your driveway for bundled campfire wood. You'd make a small fortune using the pieces from your videos!

I live in a summer tourist resort area and people sell a handfull in twine for $5.
About enough to get a fire started, the poor drunk tourists pick up a couple at the gas station and I always wonder what their plans are, for after they get to one of the campgrounds & their little bundle/s of kindling flare up and die off in 10 minutes.

Funny thing is: none of the camping places have a log worth burning available!

That said; my Cheaper Than Dirt $9.97 "heavy use" bowie, goes through logs as well as knives 10 times it's cost!

 

[bcornelis]

Any Busse, Swamprat, Scrap yard or ESSE knife will work well for batoning.

 

[soapboxpreacher]

Ok couple of things. Batonning from my new experience with it is dependent or at least seems to be better with a wider/thicker blade...it will split the log in half faster. Next is length of the blade. You said you want to do some heavy batonning. How big of a log do you want to do? This will determine you blade length. Grind also help, double bevel, saber, Convex or full flat at more axe like then other grinds so essentially these grinds work best. Almost all the major knives will use one of those grinds so you are in good shape.

I like the bk9 but I feel the blade is too thin compared to others for batonnig at that same length. For its length and as you stated you want to do some heavy batonning...if you hit a knot at that thickness you might not be happy with what happens to your blade. Also the handle on the BK9 (IMHO) is not my favorite. I like the BK2 far better...however shorter but thicker. It is awesome at batonning logs for the 1/4" thick blade splits them apart fast!! But its shorter blade length will limit how thick of a log you can do. If you are not doing thick logs this is a great pick or the RC5...another thick bladed monster...I like it better that the BK2...more so because the handle is micarta and not grivory..hard slippy non-shock absorbing plastic. Once again...It is slick, transfers shock...but you can swap it out with some micarta...but that adds cost putting you into better knife offers all around. The BK9, is a lighter knife. But since you mentioned you are going to baton, weight doesnt bare as much importance if it is heavier due to a thicker blade..wont matter much about weight. A thicker blade will split better, handles knots better, and take a better beating. Weight unless you plan on swinging the knife a lot do not be afraid of some extra weight...it wont be much but it will make things better for your use...even chopping the extra weight goes a long way!

The RD9 is I believe thicker uses a more corrosion resistant blade but I have heard about chipping with the RD9 5160 steel. Via the forums some might be BS but there were enough pictures for me to pass on it.

I like your Trail Master but the guard is what I dont like about it. Plus you have it in the good steel! When CS had Carbon V that was very good. My suggestion is a Scrapyard, swamp or a Busse if you can afford it. I am a huge RAT fan but blade thickness makes batonning easier as I described how the log splits and the longer RATs are 3/16 in thickness...the RC5 is 1/4" thick but only a 5" blade...too short for your purpose it sounds like. Personally I would do a dog father from scrapyard. Not that expensive however you will have to wait for it because it is a pre-order, limited batch knife, they are harder to get but worth it. Or do a Busse Bushwacker Mistress (Available now). it is the best!!! long, thick, best steel on the market!! However it is some bucks but you will never look for another blade for your purpose again...period!!!! Oh and the grip...NICEEEE! I dont think anything is better. It is a chopping king, batonning, super edge retentions, very corrosion resistant. the List goes on...I just want someone to will me one!!! HAHA! Huge fan!!!!

 

[Brian Sargent]

I've beat my 5160 Rangers' through car hoods, nails, wire and a bunch of other stuff. I've also tested a bunch of them in passarounds. I haven't seen one chip. Just edge rolling. Where is your info from?

 

[soapboxpreacher]

Let me add this:

If you are going to split/baton smaller logs under 4.5"...RC5 (1st pick, mid-price) Fallkniven S1 (2nd) BK2 (3rd...price is awesome!)

Medium Size logs 5-6" (this will start getting harder to split depending on what type of hardwood) Fallkniven A2 (This knife is nice! all around...I have an A1 and it is really my favorite all-arounder) Son of a Dog Father Scrap Yard (SOD...has the best handle for shock) or a Bark River Bravo 2 (crafted beautifully and can take its beating...have a bravo 1...awesome!). My favorite here is tough, but the A2 might do some bigger work...longest blade of the pack and yet well balanced...sheath is either a love hate but it is light and service its purpose well!!! SOD has the best shock absorbing grip, and bark has such a nice grind...it is the goog looker of the bunch but can fight just as well! They all have blades around 7-8" So like I said...a tough pick out of the crop!

For Bigger logs...Busse Bush Miss or Scrapyard Dog Father...anything else I just dont think can handle it as well. You would have no fear of beating these babies to death...they want more!!! 10" blades and steel that is the strongest!

Notice...all these blade are thick 1/4" or more in every category. They split better...PERIOD! If you baton...IMHO you want a thicker blade...more like an ax

I am going to get a Dog Father next. Just waiting for the time they come available.

 

[MustardMan]

I won't recommend specific knives, as there are plenty of discussions of that already, but I will throw out my general thoughts on what I consider to be the most important consideration: knife grind.

In general, my preferences for batoning are to prefer a full convex grind, then a full flat, then finally a saber. Hollow grinds are terrible for batoning.

My reasoning goes something like this: for batoning, you want the knife to act as a splitting wedge, and since it's being driven through the center of the log, you want something that will bind up as little as possible. A full convex grind keeps a very small amount of surface area in contact with the wood, and the surface that is in contact is smoothly curved, so there is much less chance to bind up. A full flat grind will have more surface area in contact, but again since it's smooth it won't be too likely to bind. A saber grind will often have less surface area in contact than a full flat grind, but it will have a sharp transition between the flat and saber portions of the blade, and that transition point can bind up. Just look at where the coating wears first on a saber ground knife, and you'll see where all your friction is coming from.

Of course, these are all just generalizations and there are exceptions. For example, in a thinner knife, a saber grind becomes more competitive with a full flat grind, because the saber grind stiffens up the knife, making it less likely to flex and bind up in twisted, gnarled, knotty wood.

I still generally prefer a full convex grind to either full flat or saber, though, because it has the best balance of blade stiffness and lack of cutting resistance, and depending on how "deep" the convex grind is, it can approximate the more neutral balance of a full flat grind, or the more blade heavy balance of a saber grind. It's a very versatile grind.

 

[hoopster]

Scrap Yard Dogfather. It's thick and long. The steel (jackhammer bit steel) is designed to handle shock. The Resiprene-C handle isolates your hand from shock and vibrations. I can't think of any knife that makes a better dedicated batoning knife. I do agree with Mustardman though, full convex grinds seem to be best for batoning. I'm sure convexing a Dogfather has been done before by someone.

 

[soapboxpreacher]

I've beat my 5160 Rangers' through car hoods, nails, wire and a bunch of other stuff. I've also tested a bunch of them in passarounds. I haven't seen one chip. Just edge rolling. Where is your info from?

I'll dig some up...I wanted one badly...seemed like the best fit but after seeing some blade pics...I backed off. One guy NutJobnFancy chip his up during his test video. Not that I am a huge fan but it was right there...its on youtube.

 

[MustardMan]

Scrap Yard Dogfather. It's thick and long. The steel (jackhammer bit steel) is designed to handle shock. The Resiprene-C handle isolates your hand from shock and vibrations. I can't think of any knife that makes a better dedicated batoning knife. I do agree with Mustardman though, full convex grinds seem to be best for batoning. I'm sure convexing a Dogfather has been done before by someone.

If you can get your hands on one of the (rarer) full flat ground dogfathers - either the dogfather LE or one of the FFG dogfathers that were sold at various knife shows, it would be a sure winner.

I had the saber ground dogfather and sold it - the saber grind just didn't impress me when it came to batoning.

Alternatively, you could send a saber ground knife to one of many folks on these forums to get it reground to a full convex. Horn Dog has squeezed some amazing performance out of blades by stripping and convexing them.

I will probably end up at least partially convexing my Son of Dogfather at some point - I really dig the steel and the handle, but the saber grind is... meh. It's a mean chopper for the size, but my much cheaper Ka-Bar heavy bowie blows it away when it comes to batoning, because the ka-bar is a full flat grind.

 

[topher]

Cold Steel Bushman. Cheap ($35 MSRP), and tough as hell. The Bushman was practically made to be abused.

 

[Brian Sargent]

I'll dig some up...I wanted one badly...seemed like the best fit but after seeing some blade pics...I backed off. One guy NutJobnFancy chip his up during his test video. Not that I am a huge fan but it was right there...its on youtube.

I've watched it. Did you notice him hitting the ground with it? Even INFI will chip hitting stuff like that (rocks and steel). That one video means nothing but how not to use a knife. This RD-9 is FULLY CONVEXED to a ZERO EDGE and doesn't chip. Some guys says he sees chips in the blade ........ where? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2aEPXhDkqLQ

 

[gomipile]

I've watched it. Did you notice him hitting the ground with it? Even INFI will chip hitting stuff like that (rocks and steel). That one video means nothing but how not to use a knife. This RD-9 is FULLY CONVEXED to a ZERO EDGE and doesn't chip. Some guys says he sees chips in the blade ........ where? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2aEPXhDkqLQ

I'll have to look into the RD9, it looks like a good value.

 

[jec006]

The Becker BK9 is an excellent choice for that type of use.

:thumbup: + 1 I love my BK9 - the grips are great and make it easy to use even for long periods

 

[Dag-nabit]

Dag-nabit - did you put that wicked grind on the RC-4?

Yes, it was the first quality knife I reprofiled to convex on a belt sander after practicing on a bunch of cheapies.

It works real well.

Kevin

 

[PatriotDan]

If you can get your hands on one of the (rarer) full flat ground dogfathers - either the dogfather LE or one of the FFG dogfathers that were sold at various knife shows, it would be a sure winner.

I had the saber ground dogfather and sold it - the saber grind just didn't impress me when it came to batoning.

Alternatively, you could send a saber ground knife to one of many folks on these forums to get it reground to a full convex. Horn Dog has squeezed some amazing performance out of blades by stripping and convexing them.

I will probably end up at least partially convexing my Son of Dogfather at some point - I really dig the steel and the handle, but the saber grind is... meh. It's a mean chopper for the size, but my much cheaper Ka-Bar heavy bowie blows it away when it comes to batoning, because the ka-bar is a full flat grind.

I think it depends on the wood. I mostly split seasoned wood, alder, pine spruce and birch, and it get's done maybe a tad faster and with less effort with saber grind blades. Even the gnarly knotty stuff that just tears refusing to split goes fine after some elbow grease. I would guess full flat grind works better for freshly felled wood, in general.

As to brands, Scrapyard Dogfather would be my top pick. Rubber handle absorbs baton blows great and the blade is sufficiently long. Unfortunately it is not available from the company, only second hand.

The Trail Master has a rubber grip and a convex grind, yes? I doubt the original poster will get massive performance upgrade with any knife... But sometimes a new knife is in order regardless...I'd probably go with something different, Ontario's full tang Ranger Series, the 9 inch blade version RD-9. I like 'em

 

[akadave2]

I use a Busse FFBM. Its a but thick to me to be a really great chopper but for batoning, I can make more kindling with it than I can with my camp axe. I love it!

 

[soapboxpreacher]

I won't recommend specific knives, as there are plenty of discussions of that already, but I will throw out my general thoughts on what I consider to be the most important consideration: knife grind.

In general, my preferences for batoning are to prefer a full convex grind, then a full flat, then finally a saber. Hollow grinds are terrible for batoning.

My reasoning goes something like this: for batoning, you want the knife to act as a splitting wedge, and since it's being driven through the center of the log, you want something that will bind up as little as possible. A full convex grind keeps a very small amount of surface area in contact with the wood, and the surface that is in contact is smoothly curved, so there is much less chance to bind up. A full flat grind will have more surface area in contact, but again since it's smooth it won't be too likely to bind. A saber grind will often have less surface area in contact than a full flat grind, but it will have a sharp transition between the flat and saber portions of the blade, and that transition point can bind up. Just look at where the coating wears first on a saber ground knife, and you'll see where all your friction is coming from.

Of course, these are all just generalizations and there are exceptions. For example, in a thinner knife, a saber grind becomes more competitive with a full flat grind, because the saber grind stiffens up the knife, making it less likely to flex and bind up in twisted, gnarled, knotty wood.

I still generally prefer a full convex grind to either full flat or saber, though, because it has the best balance of blade stiffness and lack of cutting resistance, and depending on how "deep" the convex grind is, it can approximate the more neutral balance of a full flat grind, or the more blade heavy balance of a saber grind. It's a very versatile grind.

Couldn't agree more!!! Right on the money and well put!