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Bubble Jigs for sale, now with free shipping world wide.

Discussion in 'For Sale: Knifemaking Supplies & Tools' started by Fred.Rowe, Jun 11, 2012.

  1. Fred.Rowe

    Fred.Rowe Dealer / Materials Provider Dealer / Materials Provider

    May 2, 2004
    [​IMG]



    [video=youtube;yd3f9meTfcs]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yd3f9meTfcs[/video]


    Whether you are just starting out or are an old pro:), this grinding jig will produce better grinds, faster and with more freehand control than anything you have ever tried.

    Bubble Jig basics 1

    [video=youtube;Jp5NLNmMe2Y]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jp5NLNmMe2Y[/video]

    Bubble Jig basics 2
    [video=youtube;iZX5RLO_fMg]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iZX5RLO_fMg[/video]



    The Bubble jig, by itself, with a set of degree wedges and a basic instruction sheet is $49.95.

    The complete grinding system, which includes the Bubble Jig, degree wedges, bevel grinding clamp, allen wrenchs and a basic instruction sheet, is $75.00.

    [​IMG]
    The bevel clamp, made from machine ground 01, is hardened along the griping fingers [60 HRC] to ride along the belt edge, the loop end has been left normalized for full, spring temper, flexibility. It will grip steel stock from under an 1/8 inch to over a 1/4 inch securely.

    Paypal payment here: bubblejig.com

    E-Mail [email protected]

    Fred Rowe
    3199 Roberts rd.
    Amesville, Ohio 45711

    You can reach me @ 866-325-2164 if you have questions that you would like answered.



    Regards, Fred
     
    Last edited: Jul 9, 2012
  2. quint

    quint

    Nov 29, 2011
    Just ordered a setup from your website, figured this couldnt hurt with my inexperienced attempts at grinding.
     
  3. Fred.Rowe

    Fred.Rowe Dealer / Materials Provider Dealer / Materials Provider

    May 2, 2004
    You will be surprised at how easy it is to develop flat bevels and even plunge lines. Its not magic, just a different approach to grinding; an approach without the guesswork.

    Your package is in the mail. Let me know what you think.

    Fred
     
  4. quint

    quint

    Nov 29, 2011
    Thanks Fred will do.
     
  5. rscoffey

    rscoffey

    109
    Sep 12, 2006
    Fred: I am kind of struggling here. I would like to give you a scenario and see if I am moving in the right direction, so to speak.

    1. Start with a profiled blade, say 1.5" high.
    2. After marking the centerline, along the edge profile, grind a */- 45 degree bevel.
    3. Install the grinding clamp and set the Bubble Jig for 5 degrees. Begin grinding until the flat reaches it's maximum at that angle.
    4. Changing the angle will move the flat towards the spine and the area where the previous angle stopped will be blended in. If I understand correctly, lessening the angle (say to 3 degrees) will increase the height of the grind.
    5. As some point, you will intersect the spine and create a full flat grind.

    I guess I am a bit at a loss as to what sequence of angles to use and how much metal to take off. I know this sounds like a real newbie question, but I am ending up with grinds that resemble more convex than flat. Neither fish nor fowl, as it were. Any help you can provide is appreciated.
     
  6. Fred.Rowe

    Fred.Rowe Dealer / Materials Provider Dealer / Materials Provider

    May 2, 2004
    You can eliminate number 2 and start the grind with the five degree setting. Two things are happening at once; the edge itself is being formed while the grind line is moving up the side of the blade. When the edge is at the same thickness from plunge to tip and is at heat treat thickness; check the height of the grind lines, if they are just under the height you want when the blade is finished, the blade is ready for heat treat; if not change the degree setting on the bubble by a half a degree and continue the grind.
    The amount of metal to remove is dictated by the grinding angle. If you have the bubble set at five and the edge is at heat treat thickness, with the grind lines correct, the bevels will be flat. If you lower the angle [its your call and not set in stone] and grind until you have intersected the edge along with achieving the desired grind line height, you will have flat bevels from edge to grind line.
    If I understand you correctly, I believe you are using too many angle settings and moving to far, degree wise when you change angles. To help my explanation; if you were to do a scandi grind, one ground at 24 degrees inclusive, the best way to get a good grind is to choose the 12 degree wedge, set the bubble and grind the edge to the center line on both sides and the blade is done. The angle was not changed at all.
    This is what is going on with any blades you grind using the Bubble Jig; except you are using but one single angle.
    Here at my shop if I grind a blade that is 1.5 inches high I will use two degree settings; 5 degrees to start and probable 3.5 degrees to finish. I may even "cheat" the bubble towards one of the lines in the vile to move the grind lines just a little.

    Fred

    If my explanation does not supply the information that corrects the problem, please give me a call on my 800 number and I will happy to continue our conversation.
     
  7. rscoffey

    rscoffey

    109
    Sep 12, 2006
    Thanks, Fred. I will have to digest the information and tackle it again.

    Bob
     
  8. Fieldtestornothing

    Fieldtestornothing

    662
    May 23, 2006
    Funds sent via paypal for the whole deal. Look forward to trying it out.
     

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