Lansky Vs Spyderco

I have this cheap little thing that is similar in use to a sharpmaker. Because the sharpening end is rounded instead of flat it doesn't sharpen as fast and builds up with swarf fairly quick. However, because it's rounded it works decent enough on my hawkbills and recurve blades, the biggest reason why I bought (and because it was really cheap and I needed a little extra for free shipping). It does work well for touch ups and carbon steels like on traditionals, really like it for traditionals actually, but it can take a good bit to do a lot of work on harder steels. It took a lot of work to get a used queen with D2 sharp on it, mostly the main blade.

http://lansky.com/index.php/products/4-rod-turn-box/
 
I was thinking about buying a sharpening system. I was wondering if i should buy the spyderco tri angle sytem or the lansky system.

Sharpmaker is simple and works well, not so good IMO for heavy work. Of the two I prefer the lansky, cheapo walmart knife that I recently sharpened with a lansky sharpener
 
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I highly recommend the Spyderco 204 Sharpmaker. But there is some advice along with that recommendation. First off buy the 204 Sharpmaker new ( not used), Second when you get the 204 Sharpmaker watch the video/DVD at least 2 to 3 times before you even attempt to use it. Then when you are ready to give it a try don't use one of your premium Spyderco knives or any other high dollar knife before you get some practice on it.

I would use some "Rip-Mart" el-cheapo blades to practice on and learn your mistakes on them before you even attempt sharpening a premium folder or fixed blade. With all of that being said there is one more step you need to consider. There are extra sharpening rods you can buy for the 204 Sharpmaker. Spyderco offers sets of the following: the Ultra-fine stone, A diamond stone and a set of CBN stones which you can get from Spyderco or one of their dealers. To make your kit complete get those extra stones you won't regret it.

Once you get a couple of el-cheapo kitchen knives sharpened or any old knife you have at the house or that you bought at a garage sale, flea market or thrift store>> then and only then when you get the overall idea of how the unit works do you attempt to use the Sharpmaker on a premium quality folder or fixed blade. Then watch the video for a third time after you've used it on a couple of cheap knives.

I can't stress enough to take the time to learn the principles of the unit before using it on your good knives. It's not even close as far as which unit to get>> get the Spyderco 204 Sharpmaker with the extra stones>> you won't regret it if you follow my advice that I personally learned the hard way.
 
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The above is sound advice for practicing. I took out a bunch of cheap kitchen knives I acquired during college years and just never threw away to practice with. The soft steel also responds better so there's quicker feedback on what you're doing.
 
Get an Atoma diamond stone and the sharpmaker. The Atoma 400 for reprofiling and sharpmaker to refine
 
I guess I am super abnormal. I love my lansky sharpening system. I can consistently get an edge that I can cut hair without touching skin. I also strop afterwards. I have bought about 4 of the systems because I wear the hones out pretty quick. Everyone that knows me always knows that all I carry on me is razor blades. I can freehand with just the hones (not clamping and using guides) and still make a blade shaving sharp. I think that investing in an expensive system is good and all, but I don't see any reason to fix that which is not broken.
 
I guess I am super abnormal. I love my lansky sharpening system. I can consistently get an edge that I can cut hair without touching skin. I also strop afterwards. I have bought about 4 of the systems because I wear the hones out pretty quick. Everyone that knows me always knows that all I carry on me is razor blades. I can freehand with just the hones (not clamping and using guides) and still make a blade shaving sharp. I think that investing in an expensive system is good and all, but I don't see any reason to fix that which is not broken.
Hi,
Which lansky do you have and what are you wearing out?
How long does it take to wear our (ex 50 sharpenings or 5000 passes)?
Are you cleaning the stones at all?
 
I have the deluxe sharpening system with 5 stones. I replace the stones when I can see any cupping in the stone. I definitely keep them clean and oiled while in use. I have around 60 knives and I rotate about 25 of them in my edc collection. I really like the tip of the knife to be a razor so I touch up a blade every few days. I guess the 3 finest grit stones last around a year. I use them very frequently.
 
I replace the stones when I can see any cupping in the stone.
Interesting.
How much cupping do you estimate, for example, in the middle the deepest portion, 1mm? 2mm? 5mm?
Have you considered or tried flattening the cupped hones?
 
Usually around a mm if I were guessing. The Lansky kit is only 30 bucks and once a year upkeep is pretty good in my book. I have tried lapping the stones but to little avail.
 
Usually around a mm if I were guessing. The Lansky kit is only 30 bucks and once a year upkeep is pretty good in my book. I have tried lapping the stones but to little avail.
Hi,

1mm doesn't sound too dished :)
that might add a few degrees to your sharpening angle,
not a problem if you have room on the lansky jig to lower the angle by about 1mm worth of rise/height


there are reports on bladeforums of some lansky hones not coming flat out of the box,
so next time you buy you might check in the store, in case you aren't doing that already

what were you lapping with and for how long?

more than 1mm out of flat can be a real hassle to flatten,
esp if you don't have the extra coarse abrasive grain (24-36 grit , or .5-1mm grains)

It might be worth another try if you still have your old hones and its not a bother,
here is a generic description of how to go about flattening then reconditioning straighten-flatten-out-a-lansky-stone.1387677/#post-15994897
conceivably $10 worth of silicon carbide (loose grit/grain or weak bond coarse stone)
gets you a hundred flattenings or more
 
I do still have most of the old hones. I have been using those to learn to freehand sharpen. I also use them for various small grinding tasks I come across. Thank you for all your help bucketstove
 
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