Lets use those axes for what they were ment for.

:D
Old Axeman said:
I think your hand always tires faster with a thick handle. I always cut a slim taper haft on either a straight or curved (yes, I do use curved handles), oval or octagon handle.
I think I read somewhere that it does not get any better than a Kelly Perfect Jersey.
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I thought it was a Kelly perfect 3.5 western double that was perfect? I better get new sources :)
 
When you need: 1) A double bit -it is a Kelly Perfect 3.5 Western with a 36" slim taper octagonal handle
2) A single bit- it is a Kelly Perfect 3.5 Jersey with a 32" slim taper straight octagonal handle
3) A boys axe- it is a Plumb 2 1/4 with a 26" and/or 20" straight handle
4) A hatchet- it is a Plumb Claw hatchet or a True Temper Tommy Axe with a 16" handle
These are what I keep in my bug out bag. Except I think I am too old now to bug out! But, a guy should always be ready.
 
Old Axeman said:
When you need: 1) A double bit -it is a Kelly Perfect 3.5 Western with a 36" slim taper octagonal handle
2) A single bit- it is a Kelly Perfect 3.5 Jersey with a 32" slim taper straight octagonal handle
3) A boys axe- it is a Plumb 2 1/4 with a 26" and/or 20" straight handle
4) A hatchet- it is a Plumb Claw hatchet or a True Temper Tommy Axe with a 16" handle
These are what I keep in my bug out bag. Except I think I am too old now to bug out! But, a guy should always be ready.
Click to expand...

I don't care for the vent scoops (phantom bevels) on my axe, and most of my handles are a couple inches longer to fit me, but a solid list. Are you sure you aren't wranglerstar, knowing so much about proper axes and all :)? Just kidding, I tried a jersey in part because of your favoring it in your manual.

The arthritis in my hands makes thicker handles easier/less painful to grip, but I can see how a slim handle would be better if not so afflicted. My son loves his council tool handle, and that is pretty thin...
 
Old Axeman said:
When you need: 1) A double bit -it is a Kelly Perfect 3.5 Western with a 36" slim taper octagonal handle
2) A single bit- it is a Kelly Perfect 3.5 Jersey with a 32" slim taper straight octagonal handle
3) A boys axe- it is a Plumb 2 1/4 with a 26" and/or 20" straight handle
4) A hatchet- it is a Plumb Claw hatchet or a True Temper Tommy Axe with a 16" handle
These are what I keep in my bug out bag. Except I think I am too old now to bug out! But, a guy should always be ready.
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You'll get no argument from me. Those are all excellent choices and top notch products. There are a few others that could be substituted but it wouldn't really be making an improvement.
 
BG_Farmer said:
The arthritis in my hands makes thicker handles easier/less painful to grip, but I can see how a slim handle would be better if not so afflicted. My son loves his council tool handle, and that is pretty thin...
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Slim handle and grippy gloves is pretty sweet.
 
No pics of the work, but a bearded axe (with long haft) is great for chopping down trees around a pond/lake. Got a good 20-30 small trees down around a pond with a Cold Steel viking hand axe - the beard is great for pulling the limbs/trunks out of the water (edge is a steep decline).
 
Old Axeman said:
Except I think I am too old now to bug out! But, a guy should always be ready.
Click to expand...
I'm to old to bug out too, and I've been taught that we should always be ready, that's why I keep all of this stuff hidden in a bunker. :)











I also learned to turn this:




Into this,


And these,

Into this,

And this,
 
quinton- I am very impressed! No need to can anymore, I can grow year round in Paradise. Besides, if I buged out somebody would get my crop of white pineapples and I should be harvesting them by the first part of July. Too bad you can't buy them on the mainland, they dont ship well like the fresh yellow ones.
 
You're doing all the right things, Quinton.

I also store a good quantity of food - 6 months supply. But I just store it in the garage. Even a bunker can easily be ransacked by a superior force. I decided it was better to learn to forage locally. The First People lived off the land in this area for 10,000 years. Everything you need is here already - you just have to learn it. And nobody - no force - can steal the knowledge from you. I truly felt free when I learned of adequate off-season (winter-spring) forageables. You can always grow next years food but if the SHTF you could be relying on Mother Nature for the first 6 months depending on the season.
 
Square_peg said:
You're doing all the right things, Quinton.

I also store a good quantity of food - 6 months supply. But I just store it in the garage. Even a bunker can easily be ransacked by a superior force. I decided it was better to learn to forage locally. The First People lived off the land in this area for 10,000 years. Everything you need is here already - you just have to learn it. And nobody - no force - can steal the knowledge from you. I truly felt free when I learned of adequate off-season (winter-spring) forageables. You can always grow next years food but if the SHTF you could be relying on Mother Nature for the first 6 months depending on the season.
Click to expand...

Very wise to get to know the wild local foods, herbs and medicinals. I was fortunate to spend a lot of time with my grandparents who were raising families in these hills during the depression. They grew what they could, and foraged for the rest. One grandmother in particular would take me to the woods to forage for meals often. Mushrooms are amongst my favorite things to gather.
 
The steel, at least in the newer (still vintage)one piece constructed Kelly Perfects seems to be different than that used in there other lines like flint edge ect. I am not sure that it is any harder just for sure a different steel. Has anyone noticed any difference in performance?
 
I was just starting to get warmed up and the work was done. The horse chestnut was such poor wood that it broke before the axe had a chance to cut. The cedar was pretty springy though and I cleared some mountain and Japanese maple that had been squirrel killed(I got even).
I know there are not many fans of the brush axe around and it seems to want a little technic to get the most out of it, but I like them a lot. Probably not recommended for over head use but I do it anyway. They really rock for clearing small saplings. Its the right tool for that job I think.
This one is a older forge welded Kelly in the light size. They came in light, medium and heavy.
P1010035_zps2bdo3vl5.jpg
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garry3 said:
I was just starting to get warmed up and the work was done. The horse chestnut was such poor wood that it broke before the axe had a chance to cut. The cedar was pretty springy though and I cleared some mountain and Japanese maple that had been squirrel killed(I got even).
I know there are not many fans of the brush axe around and it seems to want a little technic to get the most out of it, but I like them a lot. Probably not recommended for over head use but I do it anyway. They really rock for clearing small saplings. Its the right tool for that job I think.
This one is a older forge welded Kelly in the light size. They came in light, medium and heavy.
P1010035_zps2bdo3vl5.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]
Click to expand...

Most beautiful brush axe I ever saw! What is it?
 
Good lookin' brush axe! Sweet handle on that one. I like the lights and mediums.

Horse Chestnut is an invasive. Kill it at will.
 
quinton said:
Most beautiful brush axe I ever saw! What is it?
Click to expand...

It is just an older Kelly stamped "Kelly Axe & Tool Co". It has been drinking a lot of the BLO, Turpentine and pine tar mixture. Did not really change the color much but did close up some checks and I finished it with BLO and bees wax. I have a few brush axes. I stay away from the ones that have the eye puddle welded to the blade for some reason.
 
That's gorgeous. I have a new Council Tool 12" briar hook that works well, but I'd love to find what you have Garry. That haft and the light head seem like it would be an awesome combination. Very nice.
 
Yeah, that is a svelt looking brush hook! I have 8-9 of them here but none of them are the lighter-weight looking guys like you have there and only two are really sharp enough to contend with yours.

The handles are something I have come to covet somewhat. The ones without kerfs cut into them tend to have loooonger tongues that allow bigger Jersey and Connecticut patterns to be mated up to them with a healthy amount left over the top of the eye - that is if you can bring yourself to separate them from the the original brush hook heads...

Thank you for the photos as well Garry. I spent an hour trying to get juniper to split how I wanted it to for tool wedges and thought of taking a picture but who wants to look at a small pile of wood chips being made by banging an old Gerber hatchet with a chunk of maple?

Probably us.
 
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