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Sharpening angle on XM 18 spanto

Discussion in 'Rick Hinderer Knives' started by Sharpski, Jun 16, 2012.

  1. Sharpski

    Sharpski Gold Member Gold Member

    591
    Jun 10, 2012
    Hey guys I just got a 4th gen XM18 3.5" and it needs a sharpening. I am just wondering from the people who have sharpened what angle did you find suited the spanto grind and blade shape itself. I am using a wicked edge system. I would be inclined to do a micro bevel on a blade of this thickness normally maybe at 20 then 17. What works for people?

    Thanks!!
     
  2. RubiconSS

    RubiconSS

    Jan 12, 2011
    I would stay at 22* on a spanto. Forgo the micro bevel. Stropping is plenty.
     
  3. Sharpski

    Sharpski Gold Member Gold Member

    591
    Jun 10, 2012
    Thanks! Haha actually that is what I was thinking originally then just evened it at 20.

    What is your reasoning behind no micro? Just wondering if it was a preference thing or for this blade specially. This is my first hinderer and first experience with ibis type of stel actually so I want a logically plan before is grind. I have a good deal of experience with sharpening convex, straight micro, convex micro. Anything Convex is out , just not gong to use it for that type of work. Personally I like straight micros so just im openly wondering your line of thought..
     
  4. RubiconSS

    RubiconSS

    Jan 12, 2011
    I'm not against micro bevels but on strong working edges that you want longevity I am a proponant of a
    Straight "V" edge. Also why on a spanto 22* is a nice angle. Micro bevel are a hotly contested issue among
    The sharpening gurus.
     
  5. RubiconSS

    RubiconSS

    Jan 12, 2011
    I was trying to type on my phone before, moved to the ol' computer. You can try this also, you may like it.
    Sharpen to 22* and then Add a degree (or two) 23-24 for your final strop strokes. Not a micro per se but you are setting that last edge for that razer bite.
    Those razer bite edges aren't going to be that working edge I alluded to earlier but they are fun and do no harm because you really aren't setting it in as a geometry to the edge angle. Just a thought. Depends on what you are shooting for.
    My XM's are SHARP. Shave arm hair effortlessly, paper into curls, all the fun stuff.
    There is a good thread in here "How to sharpen a Hinderer" if memory serves.

    http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/903165-How-to-sharpen-a-Hinderer
     
  6. Sharpski

    Sharpski Gold Member Gold Member

    591
    Jun 10, 2012
    I know how that goes. Interesting thought I like that idea best of both worlds without the division of a micro thanks. Yea I was looking for thread like that but after a few pages of search results I got lazy. I will try to find that one. Thanks man!
     
  7. RubiconSS

    RubiconSS

    Jan 12, 2011
    Click on that link /\ up there/\ :)
     
  8. Sharpski

    Sharpski Gold Member Gold Member

    591
    Jun 10, 2012
    Doh!!
     
  9. BBW

    BBW Gold Member Gold Member

    611
    Dec 2, 2005
    What Rubi said as far as angle (main). Spanto is a huge tip (that is what she said) so no less that 22 degrees (if you want less, go with a slicer grind).
    I might do a microbevel or not depending on my mood (if I want to strop or not ;-) )
    Cheers and enjoy one of the BEST folders available to mere mortals like us
     
    Last edited: Jun 16, 2012
  10. Need2Know

    Need2Know

    Aug 31, 2011
    Yep, rockin 22 via wicked on my 3.5 Spanto EDC. Hit the steel to bring back to ├╝ber sharp every week or so.
     
  11. DrOpPoInT1110

    DrOpPoInT1110

    Jan 28, 2009
    I finally just ordered a Wicked Edge so all this information has been helpful. I was wondering though which set of holes you guys set the knife with (top or bottom on the clamp jaws).
     
    Last edited: Aug 25, 2012
  12. Shooter45

    Shooter45

    289
    Dec 5, 2004
    I also have a wicked edge on the way was also wondering what holes on the clamp to use?
     
  13. BBW

    BBW Gold Member Gold Member

    611
    Dec 2, 2005
    It doesn't matter as long as you clamp it there every time. I clamp in the lower always unless blade is not tall enough for a particular knife and the stone hits the clamp
     
  14. DrOpPoInT1110

    DrOpPoInT1110

    Jan 28, 2009
    Thanks very much!
     
  15. RubiconSS

    RubiconSS

    Jan 12, 2011
    Use some blue painters tape on your blade to prevent marks.
    Record for settings in the back of your book.
    Usually bottom holes, "B" for depth if Memory serves.
     
  16. DrOpPoInT1110

    DrOpPoInT1110

    Jan 28, 2009
    Thanks for the info Scott. By "B" I assume you are referring to the ruler-like piece, correct?
     
  17. RubiconSS

    RubiconSS

    Jan 12, 2011
    Yes. Exactly, the 3.5" blade at "B" is just the norm for the most part. One would think it would vascilate and it really just doesn't.
    I also find no problem with clamping strength on the "Top Holes" which I like because I then do not hit my clamp flanges at all.
    I do (as I mentioned) Blue Tape my blade and my pivot to prevent both unearned scratches on my blade as well as metal filings getting into my pivot.
    Sharpen away! Love me a sharp Hinderer XM!
     

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