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Sharpening Delta 3v

Discussion in 'Carothers Performance Knives' started by Vernal2014, Oct 3, 2016.

  1. Casinostocks

    Casinostocks Gold Member Gold Member

    Mar 20, 2016
    Note to self: to wear a dust mask!
     
  2. Panthera tigris

    Panthera tigris Sharpclaw / Apex Predator Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Apr 21, 2012
    A ceramic hone and a strop with bark river black compound should keep it going for awhile unless you have micro-chipping.

    I'd be happy to arrange a sharpening session for you while you consider the options.
     
  3. Casinostocks

    Casinostocks Gold Member Gold Member

    Mar 20, 2016
    Adam, I'm just trying to visualize as to how you do that emboldened part? Feel free to share via text if you prefer :)
     
  4. Casinostocks

    Casinostocks Gold Member Gold Member

    Mar 20, 2016
    Thank you PT. This is really a future kinda investment for my CPKs but I needed something with an immediate need for my folders, CRKs in particular which leave me not satiated so far as their factory edge goes. I tried to fall in love with a KME, but I just could not after fiddling with it and seeing the potential flaws with regards to material used for its construction in that guided system. One thing which is really important to me is the actual materials used in any apparatus in addition to its design. I fidgeted a lot mentally with the less expensive none pro version of the Field and Sport, but that vice which they also use in their home use Pro Pack I, did not do it for me. I like the future option for additions and upgrades in a modularized system better.

    P.S. As for ceramics, I do own a couple of Spyderco ceramic plates with F and UF grits in 2 x 8 and 3 x 8 sized plates. I also own a Fallkniven DC521 which has that sapphire plate on the opposite side of the diamond. I also own some Flexx Strop paddles smeared very sparsely with the BRKT Blk, Grn and White compound.
     
  5. Casinostocks

    Casinostocks Gold Member Gold Member

    Mar 20, 2016
    ^ FWIW, no Spyderco plate ever came to me completely flat. I don't think that this matters much for our purposes (or does it?) but I can see as to why you'd get completelty teed off if you were using for the purposes of honing a surgical scalpel! I have not attempted to lap those ceramics but I also have a Dia-Sharp continuous plate which may be used for lapping since it is more flat than those Spidies!

    As an aside, I had suggested before that perhaps someone who is a professional sharpening artists would consider running such a thread on here :)
     
    Brian77 likes this.
  6. cold one

    cold one Gold Member Gold Member

    706
    Jul 23, 2009
    So far I've only needed to strop my LC, I have a leather belt glued to a board loaded with flexcut gold. When the day comes for more than that I have a Work Sharp KO with the blade grinding attachment. I believe the belt is small enough and by keeping my rpms down I should be fine sharpening low temper D3.
     
    Brian77 likes this.
  7. MikeKu825

    MikeKu825 Gold Member Gold Member

    584
    Aug 27, 2014
    LOL!!!
     
  8. adamlau

    adamlau Basic Member Basic Member

    Oct 13, 2002
    I would shoot you an MMS or leave a shot here of how I set things up, but everything is boxed up and ready to be moved into the new shack this week. I was too lazy to label any boxes, so I doubt I would be able to find them even if I wanted to at this point. YouTube minosharp guide rails. Use an angle cube from time to time to confirm your sharpening angle and adjust as you see fit. For example, 18 dps on a certain blade may require you to raise the spine end of the guide 1/8" off the stone. So as long as you maintain a 1/8" distance between the guide and the stone, you can achieve 18 dps (more or less). You can even leave the angle cube on the blade itself when slow stropping on higher grit stones.
     
    Last edited: Jul 18, 2017
    Brian77 likes this.
  9. Casinostocks

    Casinostocks Gold Member Gold Member

    Mar 20, 2016
    No rush Adam. Thank you for the hint and the best of luck with the move into your new abode :)
     
    adamlau likes this.
  10. JustinFournier

    JustinFournier Gold Member Gold Member

    May 7, 2012
    Water with a bit of dawn. Keep things moist. I've never had dust.
     
    ExtraBaconPlease likes this.
  11. Lorien

    Lorien Moderator Moderator

    Dec 5, 2005
    'moist'- somethin weird about that word
     
    grogimus likes this.
  12. abbydaddy

    abbydaddy Gold Member Gold Member

    Oct 14, 2014
    This is my approach as well. For all of my knives. My F. Dick steel is great for keeping a great edge between actual sharpenings. I don't like to take off any more metal than necessary. It has worked great for my LC so far. I haven't had to sharpen the LC, but it's nice to be able to work with it all day and then touch up the edge and slice tomatoes.
     
    Brian77 likes this.
  13. Brian77

    Brian77 KnifeMaker / Craftsman / Service Provider Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    871
    Nov 27, 2014
    I use a buffing wheel with a sisal wheel to just strop / buff the edge occasionally set on slow speed. I absolutely love the way it smooths up the edge and polishes it.
     
    Casinostocks likes this.
  14. Nathan the Machinist

    Nathan the Machinist KnifeMaker / Machinist / Evil Genius Moderator Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Feb 13, 2007

    :thumbsup:

    Slow speed, light pressure, keep it moving, don't let any heat build up at the apex. You'd never even feel it overheat.
     
    betzner and Brian77 like this.
  15. Brian77

    Brian77 KnifeMaker / Craftsman / Service Provider Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    871
    Nov 27, 2014
    Is this true for your other steels as well? Or is the heat treat part of the factor.
     
  16. Nathan the Machinist

    Nathan the Machinist KnifeMaker / Machinist / Evil Genius Moderator Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Feb 13, 2007
    Steel with a large vanadium carbide content does not cut or abrade easily and tends to run a little hot. High alloy chrome steels don't conduct heat as well. The Delta process incorporates the use of well developed eta carbides which are sensitive to heat. So, it's true to most all steel, but our steel comes to you in a condition that would be a shame to over heat while sharpening it.
     
    Hard Knocks, betzner and Brian77 like this.
  17. Brian77

    Brian77 KnifeMaker / Craftsman / Service Provider Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    871
    Nov 27, 2014
    Very good. Thanks for that.
     

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